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I always use an assembly lube like that when I am putting together bearing shells, cam journals etc. It's designed to be miscible with the engine oil when you start the engine and will not harm anything.
Pull the fuel pump relay and turn it over a couple of times starter only, if possible have some else turn over and you listen for any "wierd noises" If it struggles to turn over assume you have a problem
Then put the relay in and fire it up.
Can I lubricate with both engine oil and assembly lube or will the oil cause the assembly lube not to stick as well?
Use what they tell you where they tell you. Assembly lubes are what they are because of the risk of failure of a particular part in the first few seconds of operation of a newly assembled engine. The lube you use on the main and rod bearings is meant to stay in place for days or weeks between assembly and first firing; cam lube is meant to put up with the extreme pressures generated by the cam against the lifters. "But the cam will only run with oil the rest of its life, why not use oil for assembly?" Because as perfect as the fresh surfaces look to the naked eye, they aren't as smooth or minutely aligned as they will be after break-in. Adding an unintended substance can compromise the performance of the intended substance at the moment you need it most.You will use engine oil in places, but you will be told what those places are. Do not fail to prime the engine before first firing. I know some of this has been mentioned already, but it bears repeating. All of these assembly steps are necessary to ensure you don't waste all of this effort due to an avoidable error. Do what the manuals say, don't freelance; you don't know enough yet to judge the goodness or badness of your idea. I'm sure you'll get there, but you aren't there yet.
BTW, I haven't seen you ask about ring compressors yet? Yes, you need one. Yes, oil the **** out of the rings and pistons and bores when you install the pistons in the bores, Put the proper lube on the rod bearings. Get sleeves for the rod bolts so you don't chinger the crank journals. Rotate the crank to align the rod journal with the center of the bore; rotate the block to make the bore vertical so that you are running the piston straight down. TAP the piston down with the HANDLE of a hammer. SLOW DOWN when the rod nears the crank to get it in place without chingerings.
The ring compressor was the first tool I bought, as it was pretty much the only specialty tool I knew I would need before I started.
Originally Posted by H20nSnow
Use what they tell you where they tell you.
Originally Posted by H20nSnow
Do what the manuals say, don't freelance;
There is a little bit of a contradiction or perhaps my misunderstanding here as from what I can find the only lubricant the rave manual specifies is engine oil.
To confirm, I will use assembly lube with no engine oil on the main bearings, rod bearings, and camshaft with engine oil for other things, correct?
The ring compressor was the first tool I bought, as it was pretty much the only specialty tool I knew I would need before I started.
There is a little bit of a contradiction or perhaps my misunderstanding here as from what I can find the only lubricant the rave manual specifies is engine oil.
To confirm, I will use assembly lube with no engine oil on the main bearings, rod bearings, and camshaft with engine oil for other things, correct?
Yeah, I went back and looked and the manual calls for oil. If it is me, I'm using assembly lube. It is just a thick, sticky oil. I'm really surprised that they call for oil on the camshaft. Question here, is it a new camshaft, or the original? Did you keep track of the lifter locations? If it is a new cam, follow the cam manufacturer's requirements.
The camshaft is the original but I think has been replaced before so its somewhat new. I kept track of all the lifter and push rod locations.
How much do the bolt positions matter for the main bearing caps? I think two of the bolts were missing on the new engine, and I was thinking about using the some of the bolts from the other engine since some have better looking threads. The rave says to fit them to their respective holes though.