M and S Lights Flashing...
#1
M and S Lights Flashing...
Hi Guys,
This morning, on my way out of the grocery store parking lot, my '04 Disco II stalled. I tried to start it immediately, and it didn't quite turn over. After waiting a minute with it off, I started it back up with no problems.
Couple hours later...
I was driving for about 15 minutes, then stopped at a stoplight. When it turned green, I started to accelerate, but it didn't move forward very quickly. I looked down, and saw the M and S lights on the dash flashing, along with the "D" indicator on the dash, and the red light on the gear selector display (center console area).
I drove to my destination (about 0.5 more miles), and it felt as though it was in 2nd gear the whole time. Started slow, no shifting, and got up to about 3K RPMs while going about 45mph.
After shutting it off and waiting about 15 minutes, it turned back on and worked fine. No lights flashing. All gears seemed to shift as is expected.
What do you think - is this cause for concern? Should I be inspecting anything that is about to go permanently bad?
This morning, on my way out of the grocery store parking lot, my '04 Disco II stalled. I tried to start it immediately, and it didn't quite turn over. After waiting a minute with it off, I started it back up with no problems.
Couple hours later...
I was driving for about 15 minutes, then stopped at a stoplight. When it turned green, I started to accelerate, but it didn't move forward very quickly. I looked down, and saw the M and S lights on the dash flashing, along with the "D" indicator on the dash, and the red light on the gear selector display (center console area).
I drove to my destination (about 0.5 more miles), and it felt as though it was in 2nd gear the whole time. Started slow, no shifting, and got up to about 3K RPMs while going about 45mph.
After shutting it off and waiting about 15 minutes, it turned back on and worked fine. No lights flashing. All gears seemed to shift as is expected.
What do you think - is this cause for concern? Should I be inspecting anything that is about to go permanently bad?
#2
Any check engine light or codes? Reason I ask is that tranny computer monitors battery volts and will turn on M&S lights for that, but not throw a code. Limp home mode is also what you describe. Suggest through test of battery and alternator, most parts stores will test for free. At minimum clean up battery cables and tighten.
#3
#4
So I went to the auto parts store to get the battery tested. Pulling into the parking lot, my car stalled.
Got it started, pulled into the lot, and then it stalled again. Wasn't able to get it started after that.
So the guy reads my battery, and it looks like the connectors are a bit messy. He cleans them and it comes out at 12.4, if memory serves correctly.
Problem is that I try to start the engine, and it won't start. A code pops up - P0335. So I bought a new crankshaft sensor.
So now I have a hurting Disco, pushed into a parking space at Advance Auto Parts... 40 miles from my house. My default answer is to get it towed to a nearby shop, and have them replace the crankshaft sensor. Any ideas before I dump the few hundred dollars on that?
Got it started, pulled into the lot, and then it stalled again. Wasn't able to get it started after that.
So the guy reads my battery, and it looks like the connectors are a bit messy. He cleans them and it comes out at 12.4, if memory serves correctly.
Problem is that I try to start the engine, and it won't start. A code pops up - P0335. So I bought a new crankshaft sensor.
So now I have a hurting Disco, pushed into a parking space at Advance Auto Parts... 40 miles from my house. My default answer is to get it towed to a nearby shop, and have them replace the crankshaft sensor. Any ideas before I dump the few hundred dollars on that?
#5
When cold it might start. CKP sensors typically fail when hot. You can pour cold water on it. Should be about 2 hours labor. One poster was stung for about $900 for a CKP. Battery is still low. When being charged at idle, should be 13.6 - 14.4 volts. Turn on lights and AC and it should stay above 13.2.
Here is sheet on CKP - be sure bolts and spacers go back in exact sequence.-
Here is sheet on CKP - be sure bolts and spacers go back in exact sequence.-
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 05-15-2012 at 06:59 PM.
#6
#7
Certainly sounds like bob maucher has gotten the multi-volume set of Murphy's Law. Changing a CKP in the parking lot of auto parts store might not be allowed, would certainly be easier with a pair of ramps. Towing 40 miles vs nearby and shop charge might be a toss up price wise. Would be worth a try to see if it will crank up cold and make it to nearby shop.
#8
#10
Oh, I'm glad to hear it was a good price! I don't have a feel for what's good or bad, so I just open my palm with a fistful of money, and ask them to take what they need.
At any rate, it was just labor... the crankshaft position sensor itself was bought from Advance Auto Parts for about $70.
The shop where they replaced it is here:
Primos Auto Repair
10600 John Price Road
Charlotte NC 28273
(704) 583-9943
At any rate, it was just labor... the crankshaft position sensor itself was bought from Advance Auto Parts for about $70.
The shop where they replaced it is here:
Primos Auto Repair
10600 John Price Road
Charlotte NC 28273
(704) 583-9943