Massive oil leak
#11
01-17-2009, 09:23 AM
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RE: Massive oil leak
Buy the gasket kit and new head bolts from AB, along with a new t/stat and at least the upper radiator hose, if your's has the bleed screw molded into the hose.
Don't buy the Magnacor's from AB, they only sell the 7 mm wires, actually for more the the LRRF sellls the 8mm wires for.
Don't buy the Magnacor's from AB, they only sell the 7 mm wires, actually for more the the LRRF sellls the 8mm wires for.
#12
01-17-2009, 10:07 AM
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RE: Massive oil leak
Thanks Mike. I'll get the gasket kit from AB, think I'll pick up the exhaust manifold (to pipe) kit too.
I'm sitting on the fence about doing a ATF flush, drop and clean the pan and replace the gasket too. It's not the time its
the cold. Garage not heated... I suppose a couple of extra hours on top of the head gaskets isn't that much.
If I do an ATF flush is that going cause other gaskets to start leaking? I want to keep going with Royal purple.
I replaced all the coolant hoses and t-stat before xmas with the kit from AB. I still need to replace the rad or get it re-cored (small leak) along with the condenser, I'm waiting for positive temperatures to start that one.
Looks like I'm buying this truck all over again, one piece at a time :-)
#13
01-17-2009, 10:27 AM
RE: Massive oil leak
dont buy into the sythetic thing eating your seals, its this simple. the only difference between regular and synthetic is its molecularmake up, regular has od size molecules and sythethic has consistant, royal purple is good oil but may find its way past any seal that has wear and concventional oil will kinda clogg up at the seapage point.ive seem 250k on conventional oil motors, but drop in sythetic and they get to rapping till they blow. if it leaks with rp, try the regular stuff, see if that helps and if it does stay with it and just keep up on your oil changes.
#14
01-17-2009, 10:34 AM
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RE: Massive oil leak
ORIGINAL: llPANCHOll
This makes me hesitate to use the Royal Purple oil I bought..
I have half as many miles (47k) on my Disco I but its also a 1994 so its had conventional oil in it for alot longer.
ORIGINAL: Jupiter Rover
How long have you been using Royal Purple / synthetics?
If your rover has been using conventional for the majority of its lifetime there is a high chance that the conventional oil ate up your seals and replaced them with sludge. Now your synthetic oil is eating up the sludge only to reveal the worn out seals. X2 on what disco mike said, those seals would be the first place I would look.
ORIGINAL: mcrw
It's got 96k miles on it.
Just got her home and I don't see the oil level down on the dip stick. It is pretty dirty though considering I changed it 2 weeks and less than 600miles ago.
Royal purple with K&N filter.
Valve cover gasket has a little seepage but not enough to run or drip, about 1/4" above and below gasket.
Looking a bit more I can see that it is dripping on the drive shaft which is then slinging it every where. That's the spray I'm seeing on the cat and the rear firewall.
I can see it running down the bell housing. So I'm guessing valley pan gasket. If I have to replace that then I'll be doing the head gasket at the same time.
Don't think it's be the rear seal. The leak is above the bell housing at the back, where I can't see (of course). Looking at the other side I can see a bit of oil on the driver side bell housing. Not as much as the passenger side where I can see it running down and dripping on the drive shaft.
It's got 96k miles on it.
Just got her home and I don't see the oil level down on the dip stick. It is pretty dirty though considering I changed it 2 weeks and less than 600miles ago.
Royal purple with K&N filter.
Valve cover gasket has a little seepage but not enough to run or drip, about 1/4" above and below gasket.
Looking a bit more I can see that it is dripping on the drive shaft which is then slinging it every where. That's the spray I'm seeing on the cat and the rear firewall.
I can see it running down the bell housing. So I'm guessing valley pan gasket. If I have to replace that then I'll be doing the head gasket at the same time.
Don't think it's be the rear seal. The leak is above the bell housing at the back, where I can't see (of course). Looking at the other side I can see a bit of oil on the driver side bell housing. Not as much as the passenger side where I can see it running down and dripping on the drive shaft.
If your rover has been using conventional for the majority of its lifetime there is a high chance that the conventional oil ate up your seals and replaced them with sludge. Now your synthetic oil is eating up the sludge only to reveal the worn out seals. X2 on what disco mike said, those seals would be the first place I would look.
I have half as many miles (47k) on my Disco I but its also a 1994 so its had conventional oil in it for alot longer.
ORIGINAL: mcrw
Thanks Mike. I'll get the gasket kit from AB, think I'll pick up the exhaust manifold (to pipe) kit too.
I'm sitting on the fence about doing a ATF flush, drop and clean the pan and replace the gasket too. It's not the time its
the cold. Garage not heated... I suppose a couple of extra hours on top of the head gaskets isn't that much.
If I do an ATF flush is that going cause other gaskets to start leaking? I want to keep going with Royal purple.
I replaced all the coolant hoses and t-stat before xmas with the kit from AB. I still need to replace the rad or get it re-cored (small leak) along with the condenser, I'm waiting for positive temperatures to start that one.
Looks like I'm buying this truck all over again, one piece at a time :-)
Thanks Mike. I'll get the gasket kit from AB, think I'll pick up the exhaust manifold (to pipe) kit too.
I'm sitting on the fence about doing a ATF flush, drop and clean the pan and replace the gasket too. It's not the time its
the cold. Garage not heated... I suppose a couple of extra hours on top of the head gaskets isn't that much.
If I do an ATF flush is that going cause other gaskets to start leaking? I want to keep going with Royal purple.
I replaced all the coolant hoses and t-stat before xmas with the kit from AB. I still need to replace the rad or get it re-cored (small leak) along with the condenser, I'm waiting for positive temperatures to start that one.
Looks like I'm buying this truck all over again, one piece at a time :-)
#15
01-17-2009, 10:37 AM
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RE: Massive oil leak
ORIGINAL: ryanD2
dont buy into the sythetic thing eating your seals, its this simple. the only difference between regular and synthetic is its molecularmake up, regular has od size molecules and sythethic has consistant, royal purple is good oil but may find its way past any seal that has wear and concventional oil will kinda clogg up at the seapage point. ive seem 250k on conventional oil motors, but drop in sythetic and they get to rapping till they blow. if it leaks with rp, try the regular stuff, see if that helps and if it does stay with it and just keep up on your oil changes.
dont buy into the sythetic thing eating your seals, its this simple. the only difference between regular and synthetic is its molecularmake up, regular has od size molecules and sythethic has consistant, royal purple is good oil but may find its way past any seal that has wear and concventional oil will kinda clogg up at the seapage point. ive seem 250k on conventional oil motors, but drop in sythetic and they get to rapping till they blow. if it leaks with rp, try the regular stuff, see if that helps and if it does stay with it and just keep up on your oil changes.
Sludge = Bad.
You do not want sludge.
So if you do not want to replace your already worn out seals which are hidden by the sludge then keep using conventional. Or you can do what MCRW is doing and replace your seals and continue to use synthetic.
The dealer fed me the BS that the sludge is a natural way to prevent leaking oil. So I did my own research and yet again the dealer was trying to feed the customer BS.
#16
01-17-2009, 10:41 AM
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#17
01-17-2009, 10:43 AM
RE: Massive oil leak
sludge is caused when your oil temp does not get hot enough to evaporate HC's in your sump, they settle and combine with your oil causing sludge, so any oil will sludge if its never ran long enough to get hot. like short trips. agreed synthetics have better resistive additives for sludge butthey will gum up. i guess what i was trying to say was if his motor doesnt like sythetic there is absolutly nothing wrong with conventional oil if thats what the engine likes, BTW ever looked at the energy conserving rating on the back of a sythetic bottle? Theres is none. reg oils are rated 1 or 2.
#18
01-17-2009, 01:03 PM
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RE: Massive oil leak
The dino vs. synth might be a moot point for me now. I got her up on ramps to have a good look and it's leaking everywhere.
Lets see if I can get the images uploaded...
Coolant from the t-body plate just starting:
Oil and coolant on the drivers side oil pan:
Oil on passenger side, just behind filter:
Original oil leak behind engine onto bell housing:
Lets see if I can get the images uploaded...
Coolant from the t-body plate just starting:
Oil and coolant on the drivers side oil pan:
Oil on passenger side, just behind filter:
Original oil leak behind engine onto bell housing:
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