For the initial cold block pressure test I did, I had the oil plug out and the filter off (just not the pan off). I didn't have any coolant coming out of either spot. I think I will pull the pan though and do another test. I like that idea. I was planing on pulling the pan anyhow just to clean out anything sitting in the bottom that I could.

I still haven't done a valid hot block test (or a compression test for that matter). I should probably do those first while there's oil in it just to see what happens.

 

I've been away for the past week, so I finally had some time to work on the Rover today while it was pouring rain out.

Compression test results:
1 - 173psi
2 - 155psi
3 - 161psi
4 - 152psi
5 - 180psi
6 - 174psi
7 - 150psi
8 - 160psi

All are within 17% of the highest, so I'm thinking not a head gasket issue.

I also performed a valid hot block coolant system pressure test:
9:07pm - started at 15psi on warm block
9:15pm - 12psi
9:34pm - 9psi
9:43pm - 7.8psi

So the coolant system is good with a cold block, but not so much with a hot block.

My next step is to pull the oil pan off to do the same test, then probably the timing cover after that.

Do I need any other gaskets then the five below to do the timing cover(or do I even need all five)?
Oil Pickup/strainer Gasket ERR4794G
Oil Pan Gasket LVF100400
Timing Cover Gasket ERR7280
Oil Pressure Sensor O ring STC3372G
Gearbox oil cooler O ring ESR1594L

 

I should also add that I forgot to block the throttle open for my compression test...

 

I finally got all the parts and had some time over the weekend to pull the pan.

To maneuver the pan out, I removed the crossmember, then took the front wheels off. I then put jack stands underneath the frame but where the cross member brackets are welded on, then lowered the front axle (with the additional clearance removing the wheels gave me).





Once I got the oil pan out, I removed the plate inside the pan. Lots of sludge.





Right now the pan is soaking in Blue Dawn (the kind they use to clean penguins after oil spills) with a thorough rinsing and power-washing to follow.

After I had the pan removed, I completed another cold block pressure test of the coolant system. The system seemed to hold pressure fairly well, it actually gained pressure on the second test as the ambient temperature rose about 20degrees, but still has a slow leak.

First test at 15psi
5/10/14 9:27PM 15 psi
9:35PM 14.5 psi
9:47PM 14.5 psi
10:01PM 14.5 psi
10:14PM 14 psi
5/11/14 10:14AM 13psi

Second test at 18psi
5/11/14 10:15AM 18psi
10:41AM 17.8psi
3:59PM 18.5psi
5/12/14 7:49AM 17psi


I had a couple drips of coolant from the front side of the engine. Below you can actually see a drip of DexCool forming on the end of where the oil filter screws on. You can also see that the underside of the timing cover is fairly wet.

 

My next step is to remove the front timing cover. I have a question related to the Oil cooler line for the Transmission. I managed to remove the oil pan without messing with the Transmission oil cooler line, but it looks like I'll have to remove it to get the timing cover off. The RAVE doesn't say anything about draining the transmission fluid, but I'm wondering if it's necessary to do so before removing the oil cooler line?

 

you can simply move the tranny lines out of your way no need to disconnect

 

Ok good, that's what I was hoping to hear. Thanks.

 

That's really not that bad. That looks more like condensation emulsification from the oil temperature never reaching waters boiling point. Remember that oil is extremely hydrophobic in most cases. The composition of coolants in general allow water to mix freely with oil.

 

I thought as well that it was just emulsification (and was hoping it was). But to be sure, I sent a sample of my oil in to Blackstone Labs for analysis just to be sure I actually did have coolant in the oil instead of straight water. According to the analysis they saw evidence of potassium and sodium as well as water along with higher than usual aluminium, chrome, iron, copper, and lead that they attributed to higher than normal wear levels on the bearings and cylinders.



What do you make of my hot block pressure test results losing 2ish psi every 10 minutes, vs my cold block pressure test losing about 1-2 psi over 12 hours? I'm not really sure how to interpret the difference in pressure loss (other than that a leak exists).

 

That analysis is total snake oil. There are so many variables that make that test useless. on the other hand, the potassium finding is coolant. BUT the coolant % is estimated to be .12
So like your oil is 99.88% oil. That's pretty good right there. you have a low flashpoint, which is directly related to fuel absorption. Could again be directly related to the oil temp never reaching a high enough temperature. Or excessive cold starts. (IE back car out of driveway, move wifes car out, restart truck pull back in driveway, run to 7-11 2 mins away run back home, all really bad for oil.)

The hot pressure test is unreliable for block testing. the contraction of coolant as the temperature drops ruins the test. In a perfect world you should be able to pressurize the cooling system to 10 PSI ice cold, run the engine to full operating temp for a 1/2 hour or so and then let the engine return to ice cold and see if you still have 10 LBS.