Misfire/Low compression in cylinder 5
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1st Gear
Joined: Feb 2019
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Misfire/Low compression in cylinder 5
hi I know things like this have probably been posted 100s of times online but I feel that every situation is somewhat unique with its own set of circumstances.
Vehicle in question is a 2003 Land Rover discovery ii with 117k purchased the vehicle a little over a year ago and have only put about 6k on it so I am not too familiar with its maintenance and repair history.
So these problems didn’t start until I got an oil change done by a local shop (started misfiring about 20 miles after) They overfilled the engine by putting in about 7.2 quarts of oil. I took my own jugs of oil and I’m determining this by what was left over. And by the dip stick showing above the full line. I’m not sure if this caused the issue or if it just brought it out a bit sooner. I don’t feel that it’s an extreme over fill but you never know with such a finicky engine.
Here are my trucks symptoms throwing code 305 (cylinder 5 misfire) took it to a mechanic who determined it’s providing a proper spark and did a compression test. He determined it has low compression in cylinder 5. He said it can be a host of problems like blown head gasket cracked/broken valve, block , dropped sleeve. Or many others things but won’t be able to tell me much without further testing that will be costly.
I really dont don’t feel the truck is worth investing much money into it specially with not having a clue what is the issue and how much it’s going to all cost once the mechanic fugues it out. So I want to tackle this task on my own at least with things that only require some basic mechanical knowledge and research.
I am very handy and have a great selection of mechanical tools so I can tackle many tasks on the vehicle.
Like many of you on here I love my truck and am passionate about it but I do not have thousands to pour into this truck. So any help, tips or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
One last bit, I know normally and specially with this engines reputation the best thing to go for is to remove the head, inspect cylinders, pistons, sleeves and valves but before I take on that major task anything else I can look at?
Vehicle in question is a 2003 Land Rover discovery ii with 117k purchased the vehicle a little over a year ago and have only put about 6k on it so I am not too familiar with its maintenance and repair history.
So these problems didn’t start until I got an oil change done by a local shop (started misfiring about 20 miles after) They overfilled the engine by putting in about 7.2 quarts of oil. I took my own jugs of oil and I’m determining this by what was left over. And by the dip stick showing above the full line. I’m not sure if this caused the issue or if it just brought it out a bit sooner. I don’t feel that it’s an extreme over fill but you never know with such a finicky engine.
Here are my trucks symptoms throwing code 305 (cylinder 5 misfire) took it to a mechanic who determined it’s providing a proper spark and did a compression test. He determined it has low compression in cylinder 5. He said it can be a host of problems like blown head gasket cracked/broken valve, block , dropped sleeve. Or many others things but won’t be able to tell me much without further testing that will be costly.
I really dont don’t feel the truck is worth investing much money into it specially with not having a clue what is the issue and how much it’s going to all cost once the mechanic fugues it out. So I want to tackle this task on my own at least with things that only require some basic mechanical knowledge and research.
I am very handy and have a great selection of mechanical tools so I can tackle many tasks on the vehicle.
Like many of you on here I love my truck and am passionate about it but I do not have thousands to pour into this truck. So any help, tips or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
One last bit, I know normally and specially with this engines reputation the best thing to go for is to remove the head, inspect cylinders, pistons, sleeves and valves but before I take on that major task anything else I can look at?
Three Wheeling
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 76
Likes: 6
hi I know things like this have probably been posted 100s of times online but I feel that every situation is somewhat unique with its own set of circumstances.
Vehicle in question is a 2003 Land Rover discovery ii with 117k purchased the vehicle a little over a year ago and have only put about 6k on it so I am not too familiar with its maintenance and repair history.
So these problems didn’t start until I got an oil change done by a local shop (started misfiring about 20 miles after) They overfilled the engine by putting in about 7.2 quarts of oil. I took my own jugs of oil and I’m determining this by what was left over. And by the dip stick showing above the full line. I’m not sure if this caused the issue or if it just brought it out a bit sooner. I don’t feel that it’s an extreme over fill but you never know with such a finicky engine.
Here are my trucks symptoms throwing code 305 (cylinder 5 misfire) took it to a mechanic who determined it’s providing a proper spark and did a compression test. He determined it has low compression in cylinder 5. He said it can be a host of problems like blown head gasket cracked/broken valve, block , dropped sleeve. Or many others things but won’t be able to tell me much without further testing that will be costly.
I really dont don’t feel the truck is worth investing much money into it specially with not having a clue what is the issue and how much it’s going to all cost once the mechanic fugues it out. So I want to tackle this task on my own at least with things that only require some basic mechanical knowledge and research.
I am very handy and have a great selection of mechanical tools so I can tackle many tasks on the vehicle.
Like many of you on here I love my truck and am passionate about it but I do not have thousands to pour into this truck. So any help, tips or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
One last bit, I know normally and specially with this engines reputation the best thing to go for is to remove the head, inspect cylinders, pistons, sleeves and valves but before I take on that major task anything else I can look at?
Vehicle in question is a 2003 Land Rover discovery ii with 117k purchased the vehicle a little over a year ago and have only put about 6k on it so I am not too familiar with its maintenance and repair history.
So these problems didn’t start until I got an oil change done by a local shop (started misfiring about 20 miles after) They overfilled the engine by putting in about 7.2 quarts of oil. I took my own jugs of oil and I’m determining this by what was left over. And by the dip stick showing above the full line. I’m not sure if this caused the issue or if it just brought it out a bit sooner. I don’t feel that it’s an extreme over fill but you never know with such a finicky engine.
Here are my trucks symptoms throwing code 305 (cylinder 5 misfire) took it to a mechanic who determined it’s providing a proper spark and did a compression test. He determined it has low compression in cylinder 5. He said it can be a host of problems like blown head gasket cracked/broken valve, block , dropped sleeve. Or many others things but won’t be able to tell me much without further testing that will be costly.
I really dont don’t feel the truck is worth investing much money into it specially with not having a clue what is the issue and how much it’s going to all cost once the mechanic fugues it out. So I want to tackle this task on my own at least with things that only require some basic mechanical knowledge and research.
I am very handy and have a great selection of mechanical tools so I can tackle many tasks on the vehicle.
Like many of you on here I love my truck and am passionate about it but I do not have thousands to pour into this truck. So any help, tips or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
One last bit, I know normally and specially with this engines reputation the best thing to go for is to remove the head, inspect cylinders, pistons, sleeves and valves but before I take on that major task anything else I can look at?
With a leakdown tester you can determine where the leakage is from (you need an air compressor, but even a small one will work), rings, intake valve, exhaust valve, or blown hg. I am 80% confident you don't have a blown hg, if #5 was blown it would have to be blown to one of the adjacent cylinders or the outside air. The outside air blow sounds like a giant exhaust leak, and blown to an adjacent cylinder would cause two cylinders with low compression.
The leakdown tester (available from Amazon for under $30, you can sell used on ebay for $20 when you are done) will indicate if one of the valves is damaged or it is a piston problem(you can hear the air escaping out of the exhaust, intake, or valve cover). No leaks on those? You might just have a wiped out cam that is not opening the valves enough. Worst case, you have a holed piston or broken compression ring - still not fatal. With your mileage I would deem that engine still good (my DD has 238k on it) and drop the pan, pull the heads, and pull that piston out through the top and put new parts in. Still don't need to pull the engine.
Or you could buy a nice shortblock from Will Tillery on Discoweb for $300.
The leakdown tester (available from Amazon for under $30, you can sell used on ebay for $20 when you are done) will indicate if one of the valves is damaged or it is a piston problem(you can hear the air escaping out of the exhaust, intake, or valve cover). No leaks on those? You might just have a wiped out cam that is not opening the valves enough. Worst case, you have a holed piston or broken compression ring - still not fatal. With your mileage I would deem that engine still good (my DD has 238k on it) and drop the pan, pull the heads, and pull that piston out through the top and put new parts in. Still don't need to pull the engine.
Or you could buy a nice shortblock from Will Tillery on Discoweb for $300.
Three Wheeling
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 76
Likes: 6
O, one more thing to add. When you do the leak down test, pull the adjacent cylinders spark plug so you can listen there too. Cover and uncover the adjacent cylinders spark plug hole with your finger. If the pitch of the hiss changes, you have a blown bridge in your HG.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 459
Likes: 33
From: Los Padres National Forest
I’m going to try everything that’s been suggested here and I’m very thankful for all the input.
I’m just wondering about something: is there any connection between this (likely blown HG) and the dreaded oil pump failure of the 2003 D2? Mine is within the unfortunate VIN range... The engine ticks while idling or driving slowly, although it seems to go away while driving normally. Has there been any development in ways to save a motor with the oil pump defect?
I’m just wondering about something: is there any connection between this (likely blown HG) and the dreaded oil pump failure of the 2003 D2? Mine is within the unfortunate VIN range... The engine ticks while idling or driving slowly, although it seems to go away while driving normally. Has there been any development in ways to save a motor with the oil pump defect?
No connection. The oil pump issue resulted in complete engine failure within 30k due to oil pump gear breakage. You should be able to check using the vin on your truck vs the vin on the motor, the block has likely been replaced. If you are significantly concerned you can install an oil pressure gauge relatively easily. The ticking could be oil pressure related, you should at a minimum check the oil pressure using a test gauge. If it is not oil pressure related it is likely a slipping liner - notice what temperature is starts ticking, you will need a digital temperature gauge for that. If it starts ticking at 200 degrees, try a 180 thermostat and see if it stops.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 467
Likes: 114
From: Redmond, WA
I’m going to try everything that’s been suggested here and I’m very thankful for all the input.
I’m just wondering about something: is there any connection between this (likely blown HG) and the dreaded oil pump failure of the 2003 D2? Mine is within the unfortunate VIN range... The engine ticks while idling or driving slowly, although it seems to go away while driving normally. Has there been any development in ways to save a motor with the oil pump defect?
I’m just wondering about something: is there any connection between this (likely blown HG) and the dreaded oil pump failure of the 2003 D2? Mine is within the unfortunate VIN range... The engine ticks while idling or driving slowly, although it seems to go away while driving normally. Has there been any development in ways to save a motor with the oil pump defect?
It could be a slipped liner but it might not be. From what I've gathered, liner slip is more dependent on block temp (worse when hot, as Extinct is hinting at with thermostat changes) where as a valve related tick happens across the board and generally improves at higher rpm where more oil pressure is seen.
(Disclosure, I know nothing of the oil pump related issue on these motors, mine is outside of the affected range)
The folks who have posted above have given sound advice! I'm constantly impressed with the knowledge on here. Can you by chance, post the compression numbers? 150/149/11/154 is VERY different than 150/149/111/154 and will rule out a few things at least.
Last edited by 05TurboS2K; Aug 26, 2019 at 04:44 PM.
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