gentlemen,

Many thanks for the excellent suggestions....here is what I know.

I got the car from a young guy who said "It was running, and it just stopped...wasnt able to get it running again." he was semi mechanical but didnt have funds to keep throwing parts at it. At any rate, even if i have to put a new motor in, it was still very cheap, very close to Dirt, and it is in excellent condition.

* 122K miles - Motor Serial number matches Rover Database. so appears to be original.

Facts:
* Fuel pump squirts at pump while turning key
* Fuel pressure at Rail (have not tested pressure, but get a good squirt after motor has been cranked)
* Plenty of spark...tested with extra plug on leads....
* Tried EKA code 1515 (dealer also gave me the valid code) but it is not clear from ALL of my reading what the immobilizer is doing, does it prevent spark, or does it kill starter. My old Grand Cherokee, when alarm activated, would present identical sysmptoms of muffled bangs, until reset.....can't seem to find ay clear direction on the immobilizer.
* checked all fuses - removed interior fuse panel to review for water damage - None present - this is occasional reported from windshield leaks
* I've never seen a car NOT start from a bad Cam Sensor...I've, seen them run poorly.
* Even if wires on distrbutor are awry, it shoudl still fire but may run very poorly.

If i unplug the cam sensor I might get a thrown code.

I'm considering the skipped timing chain but want to rule out everythign before I tear the front end down.

I am looking most forward to getting dirty with this black girl....

Point of Fact: Cam sensors (intake and exhaust) is a common failure on BMW's...they cause very poor performance, but will not prevent motor from starting. I know this is a buick motor, but it uses the same Bosch engine management for the ECU.

All feedback is much appreciated.

 

I have yet to hear of one of these timing chains skip a tooth, it could happen, but doubtful.
I am still placing my money on the crank sensor, the "it just quit while running" is a dead give away.
And then he messed up the plug wire routing trying to mess with it.
The DI uses "wasted spark" but the DII does not, so if the plug wires are on wrong it will not run at all.
That is where I am at, thats all I got, good luck.
Please let us know when you get it running.

 

In reviewing the RAVE manual there is a specification for 52 psi at the pump. What should the fuel PSI be at the fuel rail. I'm showing 38 PSI at the rail. I'm told 32-38 in previous post....

 

Page 19-2-10 of the RAVE manual says "The pressure regulator is constantly opening and closing to maintain the pressure in the fuel feed pipe and the fuel rail at 3.5 bar (50 lbf.in2)."

This is a running spec so the "key on engine off" pressure may differ somewhat but I wouldn't think by 12 psi.