Motor won't start and hazard lights flash
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4wd Low
Joined: Jun 2012
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Motor won't start and hazard lights flash
Pulled our 02 Disco II into the garage with the check engine light flashing and the battery charge warning light on. Turned it off and waited for it to cool down before investigating. It will turn over but won't start now and the flashers come on and won't shut off until I disconnect the battery.
Anybody else have this problem?
Anybody else have this problem?
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 16,322
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From: Savannah Georgia
First, press reset on inertia switch on firewall.
Is the red LED on the dash doing this below?
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Is the red LED on the dash doing this below?
The LED has a dedicated signal from the BCU to indicate the status of the following:
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Alarm armed: The LED flashes at 10 Hz with a 50:50 duty cycle for 10 seconds, after which the LED flashes 50 ms on, 2 seconds off until the state of the system changes.
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Engine immobilised: If the engine is immobilised and the ignition is on, the LED is illuminated continuously. If the engine is immobilised and the ignition is off, the LED flashes 50 ms on, 2 seconds off.
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Alarm tampered: If the alarm has been triggered, the LED flashes at 10 Hz with a 50:50 duty cycle.
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Handset battery low indicator: If the handset battery is low, the driver's door is open and the ignition is switched off, the LED flashes two pulses of 50 ms on, 50 ms off, every 10 seconds.
Hopefully none of the above. The BCU controls alarm and the starter relay, usually if immobilized the starter won't run either. Battery will need to be charged up if low. By low, I mean less than 12.6 volts across battery terminals with headlights on. Do you hear fuel pump run for a short few seconds when key turned on (don't turn all the way to crank)?
Sometime the modules inside the car have a loss of communication and need to relearn each other, with battery charged up turn key to on position but don't crank for five minutes. Can also arm/disarm with key fob like 5 times in a row. Good idea if you have battery disconnected to put something on the hood alarm switch. When battery reconnected, truck may think it was armed before battery removed, and now the crown jewels are under attack, and it won't start.
Hopefully none of the above. The BCU controls alarm and the starter relay, usually if immobilized the starter won't run either. Battery will need to be charged up if low. By low, I mean less than 12.6 volts across battery terminals with headlights on. Do you hear fuel pump run for a short few seconds when key turned on (don't turn all the way to crank)?
Sometime the modules inside the car have a loss of communication and need to relearn each other, with battery charged up turn key to on position but don't crank for five minutes. Can also arm/disarm with key fob like 5 times in a row. Good idea if you have battery disconnected to put something on the hood alarm switch. When battery reconnected, truck may think it was armed before battery removed, and now the crown jewels are under attack, and it won't start.
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4wd Low
Joined: Jun 2012
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That did the trick. Started right up. The battery symbol has gone off but the check engine light is flashing. Hooked up an OBD scanner and came back with several stored codes P1300 / P1319 / P0305 / P0306.
Did some research on the codes and P0305 &P0306 are cylinder misfires and I assume that new plugs and wires will take care of that.
The codes P1300 & P1319 also relate to misfires but were in a tech language I don't understand, included misfire language, catalyst damage and Drive cycle C out of range-above maximum
I just put new plugs and wires on so I'm thinking it could be the catalytic converter? It runs rough and takes a minute to accelerate when you step on the gas pedal.
Thinking of replacing the catalytic converter but its not cheap. Any thoughts?
Did some research on the codes and P0305 &P0306 are cylinder misfires and I assume that new plugs and wires will take care of that.
The codes P1300 & P1319 also relate to misfires but were in a tech language I don't understand, included misfire language, catalyst damage and Drive cycle C out of range-above maximum
I just put new plugs and wires on so I'm thinking it could be the catalytic converter? It runs rough and takes a minute to accelerate when you step on the gas pedal.
Thinking of replacing the catalytic converter but its not cheap. Any thoughts?
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 16,322
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From: Savannah Georgia
Code "definition text" from basic scanners should be taken with caution. Use RAVE or Bosch manual to see real meanings for obscure codes.
1319 is misfire with low fuel level, so with a full tank of premium that should go away.
1300 is misfires above a minimum level on more than one cylinder.
I would clear all the codes and see how long they take to come back. Are you 100% sure you have right plugs hooked to right wires?
See attached
1319 is misfire with low fuel level, so with a full tank of premium that should go away.
1300 is misfires above a minimum level on more than one cylinder.
I would clear all the codes and see how long they take to come back. Are you 100% sure you have right plugs hooked to right wires?
See attached
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4wd Low
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Double checked plugs and wires and they are correct. The reason I changed them was the plugs were all fouled to different degrees with the #6 cyl being completely black and smelled of gasoline. They only had about 4,000 miles on them. It runs as poorly now as it did before I changed them.
I cleared the codes and went to put gas in the tank. I wasn't a block down the road when the "check engine" light started flashing and the codes were all back when I returned from getting fuel, about a 5 mile round trip. On my scanner they were listed as "stored" and not "pending" if that makes a difference.
I cleared the codes and went to put gas in the tank. I wasn't a block down the road when the "check engine" light started flashing and the codes were all back when I returned from getting fuel, about a 5 mile round trip. On my scanner they were listed as "stored" and not "pending" if that makes a difference.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Savannah Georgia
Here's some pages on how misfire monitoring works from the Bosch ECU manual. Some codes are stored and have to occur on a second drive cycle to bubble to the surface. Others are immediate.
Maybe MAF sensor that needs cleaning (with made for MAF spray when stone cold). Something is telling truck to dump a little more fuel than needed, but not so far out of spec that the bad sensor is noticed by the ECU. The ECU loves to follow instructions from sensors, even if it is driving over a cliff. Could also be a really dirty air filter.
Also see Spark Plug Analysis for other ideas on spark plug fouling causes.
Maybe MAF sensor that needs cleaning (with made for MAF spray when stone cold). Something is telling truck to dump a little more fuel than needed, but not so far out of spec that the bad sensor is noticed by the ECU. The ECU loves to follow instructions from sensors, even if it is driving over a cliff. Could also be a really dirty air filter.
Also see Spark Plug Analysis for other ideas on spark plug fouling causes.
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4wd Low
Joined: Jun 2012
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Had to work on my day job instead of the Rover for a couple of days.
I cleaned the MAF sensor and changed the air filter. Truck is still not running right and the "check engine" light is on and flashing. There is a strong smell of raw gasoline from the tail pipe when I start the vehicle.
Should I replace the MAF sensor? Maybe its gone bad?
I cleaned the MAF sensor and changed the air filter. Truck is still not running right and the "check engine" light is on and flashing. There is a strong smell of raw gasoline from the tail pipe when I start the vehicle.
Should I replace the MAF sensor? Maybe its gone bad?
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4wd Low
Joined: Jun 2012
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The dealer replaced the head gasket about 6 months ago and it ran fine for a little while then it started running rough and the misfire codes came up so I did replace the coil and that was less then 1,000 miles ago. It ran fine for a couple of weeks with the new coil but went right back to running poorly.
If you think it might be a stuck injector any ideas on how I can check for that without having to go to the dealer?
I'm starting to think I might be in over my head.
If you think it might be a stuck injector any ideas on how I can check for that without having to go to the dealer?
I'm starting to think I might be in over my head.
