I decided that before I bought or made an adapter to allow mounting the 33” tire that I would see if it was possible to modify the existing mount. It had already been flipped and notched to accept the 32” tires that I was previously running but I needed about another 1/2” for the 33”s. So my mount had been currently flipped and reinstalled with only 4 of the original bolts. The middle bolts on each side are off center and did not line up when flipped. So I moved the mount up so the middle bolts lined up and redrilled the other 4 holes. The upper holes on each side were simple and just required drilling. The lower right did not have enough material for a full hole so it was notched to allow for a bolt. The lower left needed to be drilled in a stamped area so I used a vice to flatten that area. It was actually a simple mod and when completed I had 3/8”+ clearance for the 33” spare. The hard/time consuming part was removing the subs and door panel.

 

I'm running a 33" spare with mine flipped as well. I only redrilled the middle holes and mine rubs the bumper a little. Good tip on redrilling the other 4.

 

Interesting picture of the hi-lift jack mount. Been looking for a decent picture, but failed to find any. Although, the set up I made and painted yesterday looks very similar to yours.

Nice job on the tire mount modification.

Brian.

 

I made that hi-lift mount 10-15 years ago for my D1. I looked at the way the SafariGard mount was made and came up with my own design. I had to redrill the pattern for the D2 but it still works well. I will try to post more pictures latter today. Basically it is a tube with an acme threaded stud in the center. The other end has long threaded hex welded inside a slightly smaller diameter tube to mate to what you see in the picture. That piece has a flat plate welded to it with 2 studs that receive the hi-lift. Then a metal plate with 2 holes goes over the jack and sandwiches it in place. I have drilled the studs and use wing nuts to secure the jack with a small hitch pin in the studs to keep the nuts from backing out. The acme stud and threaded hex will allow different tire sizes to be used and the jack is just held snug against the tire.


I am currently trying to decide if I want to keep the jack on the rear or if I am going to move it to the bumper in the front.