My ABS Nightmare
Without re-reading the entire thread I am going off memory here and I seem to remember you are using a scan tool that cannot actually look at the waveform. Do you have a device that could output analog signal in a graphical manner?
So to recap, so far you have ohmed out the wires and swapped in a 2nd slabs. Is that correct?
So far you have not:
1. Swapped sensors left to right
2. Repinned connector effectively moving left and right.
3. Swapped hubs left and right
The system is pretty simple, it has to be one or more of the following:
1. Sensor
2. Hub
3. Wiring
4. Slabs ECU
You have three good sets of wires, sensors, and hubs, and you can test the right front by methodically swapping in known good components one at a time. The repinning test the slabs channel, but you could assume there is a low probability your replacement slabs also has a bad rf channel. I have actually never had a bad slabs in 23 trucks and have never actually heard of a bad slabs.
So to recap, so far you have ohmed out the wires and swapped in a 2nd slabs. Is that correct?
So far you have not:
1. Swapped sensors left to right
2. Repinned connector effectively moving left and right.
3. Swapped hubs left and right
The system is pretty simple, it has to be one or more of the following:
1. Sensor
2. Hub
3. Wiring
4. Slabs ECU
You have three good sets of wires, sensors, and hubs, and you can test the right front by methodically swapping in known good components one at a time. The repinning test the slabs channel, but you could assume there is a low probability your replacement slabs also has a bad rf channel. I have actually never had a bad slabs in 23 trucks and have never actually heard of a bad slabs.
Agree. Throwing in my experience as well - the *ONLY* bad SLABS ECU I've seen was so water damaged it was obviously corroded, and rusted from a windshield or sunroof / pillar leak -- which of course ends up right on the ECU bundle there, otherwise the SLABS units seem to carry on forever.
You need to replace the whole wire. When it got caught on axle, it stretched it out and broke connection internally. I’ve seen that happen. EVEN IF THE WIRE OHMS GOOD! Do that BEFORE replacing the slabs etc.
also on the iLAND you have to clear the abs fault without the truck running or it will just re code.
and finally: I’ve found that there is a positive and negative to the abs wires and you can mix them up since they are the same color. You do need to check that if you are splicing or re pinning using different wire
also on the iLAND you have to clear the abs fault without the truck running or it will just re code.
and finally: I’ve found that there is a positive and negative to the abs wires and you can mix them up since they are the same color. You do need to check that if you are splicing or re pinning using different wire
Last edited by The_OGCJR; Jun 6, 2023 at 07:59 AM.
Update:
I have done the following:
1. Replaced wire
2. Replaced hub and wire (came with it)
3. Replaced connector with tab wire connector
I want to switch pins but the front two hubs have the same color wires and am not sure which one's they are.
Hobs
I have done the following:
1. Replaced wire
2. Replaced hub and wire (came with it)
3. Replaced connector with tab wire connector
I want to switch pins but the front two hubs have the same color wires and am not sure which one's they are.
Hobs
Update:
I finally got to swap the pins. I broke one removing it and it took a while to find that exact type. BTW here is were I found it. https://connectorexperts.com/
When I swapped them I now have both front left and right not reading a speed on the Iland ABS real time Diagnostic tool.
I'm still lost on what to do next. It seems like I have tried everything. ARGGGG !!!
Hobs
I finally got to swap the pins. I broke one removing it and it took a while to find that exact type. BTW here is were I found it. https://connectorexperts.com/
When I swapped them I now have both front left and right not reading a speed on the Iland ABS real time Diagnostic tool.
I'm still lost on what to do next. It seems like I have tried everything. ARGGGG !!!
Hobs
Update:
I finally got to swap the pins. I broke one removing it and it took a while to find that exact type. BTW here is were I found it. https://connectorexperts.com/
When I swapped them I now have both front left and right not reading a speed on the Iland ABS real time Diagnostic tool.
I'm still lost on what to do next. It seems like I have tried everything. ARGGGG !!!
Hobs
I finally got to swap the pins. I broke one removing it and it took a while to find that exact type. BTW here is were I found it. https://connectorexperts.com/
When I swapped them I now have both front left and right not reading a speed on the Iland ABS real time Diagnostic tool.
I'm still lost on what to do next. It seems like I have tried everything. ARGGGG !!!
Hobs
If I was you I would swap the pins back and swap the sensors left and right.
Well that points to you having both a wiring issue as well as a sensor issue. This is why it is best to swap the sensors left to right to test first. I had a bad front sensor on my 267 mile truck last week. Swapped left and right and it followed the sensor. Ordered new one from Amazon and installed. Problem solved.
If I was you I would swap the pins back and swap the sensors left and right.
If I was you I would swap the pins back and swap the sensors left and right.
Hello.
How can the sensor be bad? I bought two new hubs with new sensors and tried them. Same issue
Thanks
Hobs
I am not an expert on the internals of the sensor but the one I removed that was defective had no visible damage to it. However when swapped left to right the fault followed the sensor and I knew I had found the problem. Sure enough swapping in a new sensor corrected it for me. Always good to verify a suspected bad component with a known good component whenever possible. I have gone so far as to swapping entire hubs left right just to make sure I found the defective part.
UPDATE III
I messed around with the pins some more and found one not connected properly. I fixed it and had then swapped and the fault followed the sensor side. I then Ohmed both the left and right wires for the sensors.
The right one reads 1.028 steady and varies between 1.016 and 1.032 when I spin the wheel.
The left one reads 1.073 steady and varies between 1.091 and 1.069 when I spin the wheel.
I plan on pulling the sensor out (right) and putting some grease in there. I read somewhere that fixed a faulty sensor.
Any other ideas?
Thanks
Hobs
I messed around with the pins some more and found one not connected properly. I fixed it and had then swapped and the fault followed the sensor side. I then Ohmed both the left and right wires for the sensors.
The right one reads 1.028 steady and varies between 1.016 and 1.032 when I spin the wheel.
The left one reads 1.073 steady and varies between 1.091 and 1.069 when I spin the wheel.
I plan on pulling the sensor out (right) and putting some grease in there. I read somewhere that fixed a faulty sensor.
Any other ideas?
Thanks
Hobs
Last edited by PilotHobs; Jul 4, 2023 at 11:45 AM.


