Lots of work done today! Made the shims, was really easy actually, and now all my tappet clearances are in spec. Front cover and water pump are on, oil pan is on and valley gasket/lower intake are on.

For the front cover, water pump and oil pan gasket I coated both metal surfaces with Permatex aviation gasket sealant. I'm crossing my fingers for no leaks.

Shims.


Front cover and valley gasket:


Oil pan installed:



And finally, lower intake manifold on:

 

Making good progress. You are using the Permatex along with the factory gasket/seal and not just gasket maker by itself, right?

 

Haha yes of course.

 

That's what I figured, but I have run across people on here that have tried to use only RTV to seal the water pump and front cover so I just wanted to make sure.

A little TIP from my rebuild:
I didn't use RTV on the valve cover gaskets the first time I installed them and the passenger side developed a small leak toward the rear. I did use some RTV on my valve cover gaskets when I replaced them recently and they have not leaked a drop since. The passenger valve cover gasket is more difficult to install correctly and the RTV helps hold the new gasket to the valve cover while you work it into place.

 

Yeah, I'm planning on using some rtv for those for sure.

 

Fuel rail on, rockers covers on, coil packs and plug wires in place, exhaust manifolds attached. I would have continued, however i either misplaced the plenum gasket or it was not included in the kit I bought. Now to wait for more parts. Crossing my fingers for a start-up next weekend! I've got a gloshift oil pressure gauge too that I have to install, so I can spin the engine dry to build pressure before doing it for real.

 

Oh, and I'd like to get everyones feedback on initial startup procedure. My plan is as follows:

1. Pour oil directly into oil pressure gauge port to pseudo-prime the pump
2. Pull coil pack and fuel pump fuses and leave spark plugs uninstalled
3. Crank engine until oil psi starts to build
4. Replace coil pack and fuel pump fuses and install/plug in spark plugs
5. Crank, start (hopefully)
6. Keep revved between 2000-2500rpm for 20-30 minutes.

I'm also planning on using rotella as break in oil.

Sound good??

 

Everything there sounds good to me with the exception of #6. Can I ask why you plan on keeping the engine revved between 2000-2500rpm for 30 minutes?

 

That's standard new cam break in procedure for flat tappet motors. The cam is oiled by crank spray mainly and you don't get much of that at idle, so they say to keep it revved for the first 20 minutes or so during initial cam wear in. I'm pretty sure that's a well accepted part of break in.

 

Oh okay. I didn't install a new cam or lifters so that might explain why I've never heard of this step.

Better be sure you get all the air out of the cooling system on the first try as revving high for 20-30 is sure to heat up the engine quick. You might want to also consider placing a good size fan in front of the truck if you are in a garage to help with air flow. It's probably overkill but you've come this far and I would hate to see something overheat and go wrong at this point.