My Disco Will Not Start Please Help
One thing we may have missed, if you replaced engine, perhaps ground bond from block to chassis is missing. To test that theory quickly, attach one end of battery jumper cable to (-) battery post, and the other to something sturdy and metal on the engine (not painted).
I tried the ground with jumper cables. Still nothing. I called the local dealer that's 1.5 hours away and ask the service manager about the EKA code for my disco. He said he had never heard of a EKA code. I explained what it was and he said to just bring it in, even though he said their diagnostic machine for my disco was broken at the time. I told him I would hold off right now.
There is something I just thought of. I tried to get the broken studs out of the block by welding a nut to the top of the stud while it was still in the truck. I thought I had all the ground disconnect from the block. Could I have fried something?
Jason
There is something I just thought of. I tried to get the broken studs out of the block by welding a nut to the top of the stud while it was still in the truck. I thought I had all the ground disconnect from the block. Could I have fried something?
Jason
For immobilisation, the BCU disables the starter motor relay. When the engine is cranking, the ECM looks for a coded signal from the BCU. If the signal is not received within one second of cranking, the fuel supply to the engine is stopped and the injectors are disabled. This also prevents unburnt fuel from entering the catalyst.[/SIZE][/FONT]
I'm still wondering about the crank sensor. I've seen SO many posts where it's been re-installed incorrectly after removal.
Is there anyway I could have installed the flexplate backwards? I attached a picture taken at the drivers side inspection plate. Is this correct?
Savannah, where is the memory module?
Thanks.
Savannah, where is the memory module?
Thanks.
By memory I mean the memory inside each of the ECU units.
Pix of drilled reluctor plate shows you have it facing the correct direction. The Crank Position Sensor tip goes between those drilled holes in the slot.
Pix of drilled reluctor plate shows you have it facing the correct direction. The Crank Position Sensor tip goes between those drilled holes in the slot.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; Apr 9, 2012 at 08:13 PM.
We need to get to basics again..
1) connect light to fuel pump power wire. Turn key - does the light come on? meaning - is the fuel pump running at all when the key is turned on?
2) Crank engine - fuel pump running? Power to fuel pump wire?
no power to fuel pump.
a) find fuel pump relay. When relay is closed or jumpered - is the fuel pump running?
b) Now that you found the fuel pump relay - put your hand on it or fingers. Have someone turn the key - does the relay click? You will feel the click.
3) Is there spark at the spark plugs?
a) no spark - check the ignition coils are plugged in to the harness.
b) Crank sensor close enough to the magnet or teeth that make it fire
c) Crank sensor is plugged in
4) ECU- if the remote can lock / unlock the doors you are probably not in a theft lockdown mode.
5) There is a earth ground wire from the right side head to the firewall. Braided wire. Assure it is attached.
6) Are the injectors plugged in?
7) did you catch the wiring harness into the intake manifold and short it?
8) Fuses all OK for the ignition?
9) Check that you plugged in the fuel line to the injector fuel ring. Make sure it is plugged on properly. If not on, gas would probably be squirting out when the fuel pump came on. but, not sure.
You really need to get a 12 volt light and start looking at voltages.
1) connect light to fuel pump power wire. Turn key - does the light come on? meaning - is the fuel pump running at all when the key is turned on?
2) Crank engine - fuel pump running? Power to fuel pump wire?
no power to fuel pump.
a) find fuel pump relay. When relay is closed or jumpered - is the fuel pump running?
b) Now that you found the fuel pump relay - put your hand on it or fingers. Have someone turn the key - does the relay click? You will feel the click.
3) Is there spark at the spark plugs?
a) no spark - check the ignition coils are plugged in to the harness.
b) Crank sensor close enough to the magnet or teeth that make it fire
c) Crank sensor is plugged in
4) ECU- if the remote can lock / unlock the doors you are probably not in a theft lockdown mode.
5) There is a earth ground wire from the right side head to the firewall. Braided wire. Assure it is attached.
6) Are the injectors plugged in?
7) did you catch the wiring harness into the intake manifold and short it?
8) Fuses all OK for the ignition?
9) Check that you plugged in the fuel line to the injector fuel ring. Make sure it is plugged on properly. If not on, gas would probably be squirting out when the fuel pump came on. but, not sure.
You really need to get a 12 volt light and start looking at voltages.
Before all that will take place - the ECU expects the BCU to exchange a coded data stream. If ECU does not recognize BCU, perhaps because welding scrambled the memory of the units, the ECU won't initiate sequence to power up truck. BCU may trigger starter relay, but without fuel and spark, you are going nowhere.
From RAVE:
From RAVE:
For immobilisation, the BCU disables the starter motor relay. When the engine is cranking, the ECM looks for a coded signal from the BCU. If the signal is not received within one second of cranking, the fuel supply to the engine is stopped and the injectors are disabled. This also prevents unburnt fuel from entering the catalyst.
When you are trying the EKA ritual is the hood switch pressed down? It needs to be pressed down.
You may be able to cheat here. Disconnect the battery, press the hood switch down and hold it while you connect the battery cable. Cycling the key on and off a few times will usually reset the alarm if that was the issue.
Also make sure you turn the key completely to open and completely to closed, ending with perfectly at center. The EKA code will not work unless it gets exactly what it wants.
You may be able to cheat here. Disconnect the battery, press the hood switch down and hold it while you connect the battery cable. Cycling the key on and off a few times will usually reset the alarm if that was the issue.
Also make sure you turn the key completely to open and completely to closed, ending with perfectly at center. The EKA code will not work unless it gets exactly what it wants.


