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My first major DIY job - Head Gaskets and More

Old Apr 11, 2016 | 05:34 PM
  #31  
Chadley's Avatar
Overlanding
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 16
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Thanks golgafrinch!

Exactly what I needed.

I'm now hung up on the exhaust manifold, passenger side (haven't tried the driver's side yet). The manifold either shrank, or my cylinder head grew at the machine shop. The bolt holes don't line up anymore.

It's beer thirty here (yes, we have that even in Utah...).
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 10:20 AM
  #32  
golgafrinch's Avatar
Three Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 87
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From: SLC
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Originally Posted by Chadley
Thanks golgafrinch!

Exactly what I needed.

I'm now hung up on the exhaust manifold, passenger side (haven't tried the driver's side yet). The manifold either shrank, or my cylinder head grew at the machine shop. The bolt holes don't line up anymore.

It's beer thirty here (yes, we have that even in Utah...).
Sounds like you might need a manifold stretcher. Or a head shrinker.

I know all about it. I'm in SLC. But my beer thirty has evolved over the years to rye whisky o'clock.
Good luck with your reassembly.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2016 | 01:57 AM
  #33  
jfall's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 3,171
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Manifold bolts will line up.

You just need to get two phillips screw drivers and put on in the front hole
of the manifold to head

and one in the back.

Get the holes lined up.

Then put in an easy manifold bolt in the middle to get things started.

I had no issues with the manifold bolts in 2012.

You just should not be in a hurry.

I did this is 2012 in a parking lot outside.

Took me two weeks.
Successful outcome.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/76579732@N07/
 
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Old Apr 18, 2016 | 05:06 PM
  #34  
Chadley's Avatar
Overlanding
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 16
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Well, got everything back together...
jfall's screwdriver/ start with middle bolts is a great tip- but as it turned out, I had cross threaded the lower bolt closest to the firewall, had to buy a metric tap and die set to straighten that out.

All set for start up, and as my son was cranking the motor over, fuel started spraying from the fuel line where it threads into the fuel rail- doh!
I had cross threaded that connection as well. something about working near the firewall that gives me trouble.
now I need the right size tap and die to clean those threads up... or, is there any other option? I tried using a small file to clean up the threads on the male side, but it seems the female part is trouble...
 
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Old Jun 2, 2018 | 03:38 PM
  #35  
chayito&discoverer's Avatar
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 1
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From: Napa valley, California
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Originally Posted by Alex_M
While it's apart, go ahead and do the oil pump and timing chain. No better time to do it and it's cheap insurance down the road. Call up Lucky 8 llc and tell them what you need, they've got the best deal going by a long shot. I've got a write up for that you can find through my signature if you need it, but you seem pretty handy.

That piece that broke is the o-ring retainer. kind of an important piece. You'll likely break the whole set getting the o-rings off to replace them. This kit here comes with the retainers as well as new filters. Not sure if anyone sells just the retainers.

Those motor mounts look pretty good to me, but I remember there being a company a while back in the classifieds section selling solid ones. You can also replace with the factory rubber. Or leave them. I'm sure someone will come by to either verify or de-bunk this claim.
hello there, just a question. It is true that u have to calibrate the valvea once the heads are removed?
 
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