Need guidnce and recommendations for new suspension system
#11
I would think that extending the distance between the axle and the frame of this trailer would be super simple because.. WW2 Jeep.
The trailer I have in mind is a M416 Military Jeep trailer. Gonna load it up with a full size spare wheel for the truck and a spare trailer wheel, 5 gallon propaine canister, water, tools, heavy telescope equipment etc. Wondering if these trailers can be lifted to be same level as a lifted truck or if they have any special hookups that compensate for height differences between truck and trailer all and while keeping the truck level while towing.
#12
If I havent posted some photos by mid afternoon tomorrow please remind me to. I think this may be exactly what you've been looking for.
The following users liked this post:
TRIARII (02-13-2018)
#13
The trailer I have in mind is a M416 Military Jeep trailer. Gonna load it up with a full size spare wheel for the truck and a spare trailer wheel, 5 gallon propaine canister, water, tools, heavy telescope equipment etc. Wondering if these trailers can be lifted to be same level as a lifted truck or if they have any special hookups that compensate for height differences between truck and trailer all and while keeping the truck level while towing.
I have owned an M416 for going on seven years. It has the spring-over done and I run 35" mud terrains on it. My RTT is mounted on top and I carry a full size spare, along with the typical camping gear you'd have a on a long trip for a family. I mounted a HF trailer box in front of the tub, as seen in the pic you posted. I use the standard military pintle hitch. I tow it behind my '02 DII which has a decade old+ OME 2" lift with spring spacers. The truck is on 33" KM2's. Even with a full truck of people, ARB fridge and assorted gear in the back it does not sag in the rear under load with the M416 on it. Why? Because tongue weight. It's insanely crucial that you learn about tongue weight and learn how to properly address it when setting up and loading any trailer.
You are barking up the wrong tree with the notion that lift-height equals improved towing ability. In fact, it's generally an inverse relationship: The taller the lift the more issues you need to compensate for when towing.You don't have to take my word for it, but you'll find out the hard way if you fail to get it right. Improper trailer setup usually ends spectacularly.
Last edited by Vermonster909; 02-12-2018 at 09:58 PM.
The following users liked this post:
TRIARII (02-13-2018)
#14
Hi
I like my standard TF shocks with my Swedish made springs but for offroading I would settle for gas EXTREME shocks with separate gas cylinders, yep, they are pricey but they do last better on offroading.
Extreme Racing Shox - Innovative Suspension Systems
I like my standard TF shocks with my Swedish made springs but for offroading I would settle for gas EXTREME shocks with separate gas cylinders, yep, they are pricey but they do last better on offroading.
Extreme Racing Shox - Innovative Suspension Systems
#15
I think it was the TF 2" lift kit though Lucky 8 informed me that it's actually a 3" lift. If that's true I definitely need a little extra so my truck does not bottom out on rocks and snow as quickly.
You are barking up the wrong tree with the notion that lift-height equals improved towing ability.
Brian.
The following users liked this post:
TRIARII (02-13-2018)
#16
That is the worst website I have ever seen.
Hi
I like my standard TF shocks with my Swedish made springs but for offroading I would settle for gas EXTREME shocks with separate gas cylinders, yep, they are pricey but they do last better on offroading.
Extreme Racing Shox - Innovative Suspension Systems
I like my standard TF shocks with my Swedish made springs but for offroading I would settle for gas EXTREME shocks with separate gas cylinders, yep, they are pricey but they do last better on offroading.
Extreme Racing Shox - Innovative Suspension Systems
#19
I'd go with RTE springs and honestly the TF longer travel shocks. I have yet to have a pair of TF shocks let me down. Most of the people I've seen complain about TF shocks were running them on old saggy springs so the shocks were doomed from the moment they were installed. I've had OME shocks leak, and I had one set where the bushing fell to pieces 6 months later. I honestly prefer Bilstein 5100's, but I'm still looking into what longer travel shock 1-2inch longer vs OEM would be compatible with our D2's as Bilstein doesn't list a 5100 for our D2's.
I've heard good things about RTE coil springs. Never heard of TerraFirma long travel shocks though. What are the pros and cons to long travel shocks? Would fitting long travel shocks ever dislocat a coil spring?
Should I get springs and shocks that are rated for greater lift in the rear and lesser for the front? Example: 2.5 inch lift springs and shocks in the front and 3+ coils and shocks in the rear? Or should I look for a solid 3.5 inch system front and rear?
What other components might I need to replace in order to compensate a 3.5 suspension lift? I already have a extended lengths Tom Woods front drive shaft. Extended ss brake lines and a beefier steering damper as well. But what else?
#20
I mean, for exactly what you're asking for you could get a set of Terrafirma heavy duty 3" rear springs for a D1 and then relocate your rear coils to the front. Then get the TF long travel shocks, or Fox if you're willing to drop the dough.
Then you can always get the rear D1 spring plates which will give you another half inch, but the D1 springs should sit around 3.5".
Then you can always get the rear D1 spring plates which will give you another half inch, but the D1 springs should sit around 3.5".