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Need parts in PA

  #1  
Old 07-07-2013, 07:24 PM
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Default Need parts in PA

I am in the middle of the head gasket change, and oil pump...

I thought we had the front seal, oil pan gasket, and water pump gasket, but I do not...

Where in NE PA would be a close place to get these parts?

Local autos stores are worthless. Land Rover in Allentown has nothing either.

The problem is, I have it all ripped apart and I have Monday off yet...Friday I leave for two weeks with the military...the Rover is the only way my wife can get around...

Im in bad doo doo...


Also...

Does anyone have a write up on what the black rubber rings, the copper rings, and the couple little gaskets that are in the head gasket set?

I know about...

The Injector O rings,
The head gaskets,
the valve cover gaskets,
the valley pan gasket,
the intake gasket (metal),
 

Last edited by shanechevelle; 07-07-2013 at 07:27 PM.
  #2  
Old 07-07-2013, 07:55 PM
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Youre only hope is to over night (at a premium) parts from Atlantic British.
 
  #3  
Old 07-07-2013, 08:47 PM
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You can try British Bone yard in Lancaster. I needed parts in the middle of changing my head gasket and didn't want to wait.

British Boneyard - Contact Us
 
  #4  
Old 07-07-2013, 08:57 PM
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If you have not put the heads back on yet, try to use the valley pan gasket as a template, mine has been a royal pain getting lined up after I torqued down the heads.

I bought the whole set, and will end up using head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, and valley pan. Lots of others left over because I didn't tear the whole thing apart.

Small gasket could be for oil pickup tube.
 
  #5  
Old 07-07-2013, 09:07 PM
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Didn't you shave the heads?
 
  #6  
Old 07-07-2013, 09:10 PM
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Machine shop milled the heads and did the valve job, and yep, they used the box of valve seals. And I did use new exhaust to head gaskets. I typed too fast. And I used the gasket for the throttle body heater. But I have lots of things left.
 
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Old 07-07-2013, 09:21 PM
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Also - when replacing the intake - I was able to strip most of my intake bolts by trying to get to 51 newton meters, per the book. Seems book on D1 is 38 newton meters. At the moment, no one has explained why a D1 and a D2 would be any different....
 
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Old 07-08-2013, 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
Also - when replacing the intake - I was able to strip most of my intake bolts by trying to get to 51 newton meters, per the book. Seems book on D1 is 38 newton meters. At the moment, no one has explained why a D1 and a D2 would be any different....
Ouch. This is one thing I dread about ever tearing this engine apart. It seems like stripping threads in the block is VERY common.
 
  #9  
Old 07-08-2013, 01:04 AM
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Block was fine. Intake was my problem. BTW on the WP gasket, I'm on the RTV diet from Dolly Parton, when I did my WP the dealer 50 miles away wanted $18 for a gasket.

You also don't have to take off front cover to do the heads, if WP and oil pump can wait until you return. And thanks for your service as a weekend warrior that can be called up for any dang thing any darn time.
 
  #10  
Old 07-08-2013, 01:05 AM
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Milling the heads changes figment of the valley pan/intake...

Yes?

My intake bolts were....loose. Two I could have taken out by hand.

I didn't get a throttle body heater gasket, nor a throttle body gasket in my kit.
 

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