Discovery II Talk about the Land Rover Discovery II within.
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Need some adivce asap!!!!!!

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  #21  
Old 03-09-2012 | 07:12 PM
ptschram's Avatar
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Originally Posted by yloDiscoII
DiscoMike, and numerous other posts on this forum...

...this is the DII section right??
It's not as though I don't own two DIIs and work on DIIs that belong to other people everyday or anything.
 
  #22  
Old 03-09-2012 | 07:26 PM
yloDiscoII's Avatar
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Originally Posted by ptschram
It's not as though I don't own two DIIs and work on DIIs that belong to other people everyday or anything.
Yowzers! I'm not sure why you're all hot and bothered at me...like I said, reputable folks on this board have posted that cleaning a DII MAF will spell its demise, so I was trying to relay that information to the OP.

...I'm not disagreeing with you. I know you have much more knowledge and experience than most everyone on this board, especially me, so if you say it can be done, then I believe you.
 
  #23  
Old 03-09-2012 | 09:05 PM
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Seafoam sucked thru the secondary induction port will surely finish off your gaskets and open up any small leak to something more serious.
 
  #24  
Old 03-09-2012 | 09:25 PM
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Nothing like getting people excited about oil or their favorite (or not) general tonic. There is room for both opinions on the MAF. Both D1 and D2 use MAFs that heat something inside, either a wire or stripe of carbon film, to about 350F + local temperature. When DIY owner grabs something off the shelf and sprays it, it can either leave a residue (so you should always buy a cleaner rated for an MAF) or if truck was just switched on/off, the hot spot can suffer thermal shock from the cold spray. Like tossing an ice cube into tap water, it can "crack". So if you must clean it, please use something rated for an MAF, not just a can of starting spray, or carb cleaner, or brake cleaner you have on the bench. And let engine cool off. Note that the sensor heats up when powered up, the truck does not have to be cranked. Try to do this work when engine is as cool as possible, and store the can of MAF cleaner in the engine compartment before use. Coming out to a -20F engine with a can of fluid from inside the 80F house is also not good.
 
  #25  
Old 03-10-2012 | 05:32 PM
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I had the same thing once and it was actually oil from the transfer case dripping on the exhaust.
 
  #26  
Old 03-10-2012 | 05:50 PM
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And that's what I am starting to think that's the source, cause I noticed today when I was underneath it the transfer case as some "seepage" coming off it.
 
  #27  
Old 03-13-2012 | 08:42 AM
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@ ptschram - any chance you could share (with any caveats appropriate to the procedure) your cleaning process for the DII MAF?

For the record, I have a 2003 with 160K on the clock.

I'm 99% sure mine is shot, and I have no problem trying to clean it when odds are I need another anyway.

Many thanks!

- DC
 
  #28  
Old 03-13-2012 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by ATLDisco
@ ptschram - any chance you could share (with any caveats appropriate to the procedure) your cleaning process for the DII MAF?

For the record, I have a 2003 with 160K on the clock.

I'm 99% sure mine is shot, and I have no problem trying to clean it when odds are I need another anyway.

Many thanks!

- DC
CRC QD Contact Cleaner Aerosol
 
  #29  
Old 03-14-2012 | 05:56 AM
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Thanks for that, I will keep in mind for the next time it blows.

However, due to pending emissions test, I threw in a used MAF ($80) and included plenum, and cleared codes and she's good as new!
 
  #30  
Old 03-14-2012 | 06:10 AM
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Great. But before heading off for the E test, drive every day for a couple of days, some codes are sneaky and need two or four drive cycles to pop back up, even when cleared.
 



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