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You don't necessarily need an expensive Testbook to actuate the ABS module to help you bleed your brakes. You can google to find certain less expensive OBD diagnostic/scanner/code readers can do this task.
The cheaper route that I use to actuate the ABS module:
- get 8 feet of doubled speaker cable or a lamp power cord
- connect 2 wire spades to one end of cable cord
- then attach the other end of the cable cord to the terminals of a normally open (NO) pushbutton switch
- Remove ABS relay R10 in the engine bay
- insert the spade ends of the cable cord into the #3 & #5 female socket of R10
- turn ignition on
- while bleeding brakes, momentarily press push button (10 seconds max) on cable cord to power and actuate the ABS module.
Should be a switch, just above ashtray, that looks like a rover going down hill (which most are...lol). I believe the rover has to be in low lock, while rolling down hill, when you hit the button...to get it to activate.
Question, do you have the owners manual for your rover? If so, not a bad idea to breeze through it...you'll get a few bits of information there...about the controls and terms used.
Good luck, with your repairs.
Brian.
Yes I do have the leather bound thing that has like 4 books in it, and also a double cd thing I guess is for the navigation system like to learn about it etc. okay this HDC my light DOES come on often after like braking hard it seems I noticed but here’s the catch, mine no longer has the air bag system, the previous owner changed it to reg shocks so I also felt like that downhill light might be coming on due to that or something but now you have me wondering seeing how red brake light is still on but I havent taken it yet to see if they can erase codes w the code reader thing to see what comes back on and what doesn’t
You don't necessarily need an expensive Testbook to actuate the ABS module to help you bleed your brakes. You can google to find certain less expensive OBD diagnostic/scanner/code readers can do this task.
The cheaper route that I use to actuate the ABS module:
- get 8 feet of doubled speaker cable or a lamp power cord
- connect 2 wire spades to one end of cable cord
- then attach the other end of the cable cord to the terminals of a normally open (NO) pushbutton switch
- Remove ABS relay R10 in the engine bay
- insert the spade ends of the cable cord into the #3 & #5 female socket of R10
- turn ignition on
- while bleeding brakes, momentarily press push button (10 seconds max) on cable cord to power and actuate the ABS module.
Wow this is foreign to me, no all we did was take each wheel off and let the air out of the brakes like that. And of course didn’t get the back passenger side bc it’s the one w the stripped bolt but have new calipher on the way 2moro so that it can be replaced
Wow this is foreign to me, no all we did was take each wheel off and let the air out of the brakes like that. And of course didn’t get the back passenger side bc it’s the one w the stripped bolt but have new calipher on the way 2moro so that it can be replaced
But I will say you are really freakin crafty to have done that, I mean your directions are step by step I may just try it but again I’m not as handy as you all male guys. I try lol but this bastard is starting to defeat me. I do have one local place I found that the owner only works on Rovers and BMW so but I’m about betting he would be way out of my price range for the moment. Too bad none of y’all live in TN! Lol. As I know most men would put some work in for a home cooked meal and a 6pk of beer 😂 kidding kidding but yeah Idk what I was thinking when I bought it. I do love it just wish I could get her back to running smoothly 😭
So after new XYZ Switch, doing the CPS trick (tapping it after starting to see if it shuts off) I still have issues. Idk it’s so random it just doesn’t make sense. Meaning it drove good a cpl days then while out immediately after starting M & S lights start to flash, turn it off back on they go away get to where I’m going am inside the place for maybe 30min come back out and D2 won’t start, I get it rolled down to end of parking lot to park it away from all other cars and I try again she starts (figuring having her pushed cause **** to start moving and then able to start?) so I’m def at the end here of trying to figure out what is causing this random crap. I’m gonna have the test the alternator and get the reading in case it’s lower than what I have read everyone says it should be. But I will say the new XYZ Switch was a bit shifty I noticed but that wouldn’t cause her not to start right? Like have to be precise putting in N or it’s not really in or lighting up on the dash, same for P I noticed once I got home but I sat there and shifted through the gears thinking maybe just needed to be put into each one.
P1590 is an abs code
P0335 is a cranks sensor dying
P0134 is a o2 lean code.
Betting when you pull the master cylinder you find a booster full of brake fluid. Which if getting sucked into the motor could be causing some of your other issues
Means that the engine either does not have enough fuel in the air fuel mixture or too much air in the air fuel mixture. You should check the long and short term fuel trims with a scan tool. Depending on how bad the master cylinder leaked (running the reservoir dry seems pretty bad) it is possible that the brake booster was damaged, which would cause a lean code as this would allow the engine to intake unmeasured air. Check the diaphragm in the brake booster to see if the brake fluid damaged it.
BTW Land Rovers use DOT 4 fluid only for brake and clutch systems. If you used DOT 3 flush it out.
Means that the engine either does not have enough fuel in the air fuel mixture or too much air in the air fuel mixture. You should check the long and short term fuel trims with a scan tool. Depending on how bad the master cylinder leaked (running the reservoir dry seems pretty bad) it is possible that the brake booster was damaged, which would cause a lean code as this would allow the engine to intake unmeasured air. Check the diaphragm in the brake booster to see if the brake fluid damaged it.
BTW Land Rovers use DOT 4 fluid only for brake and clutch systems. If you used DOT 3 flush it out.
Good luck!
Its a brand new master brake cylinder now, would I still need to check this?
