So I’m back again reading replies that I never seen when I posted this 🙄 and back to square one. Okay so I replaced the battery seemed to be better then started my problem again, positive battery cable super loose, coildnt find an actual positive battery cable had to buy a splicer~ doesn’t seem like correct one, holes aren’t big enough for cables but made it work~ now also in the last wk have replaced my starter that I just replaced maybe 6mths ago~ had warranty so all good, still strange to go bad so soon but replaced~ got new better spark plugs~ while driving a 30min drive from home a bit ago it went into limp mode 3x~ meaning acting worse than prior to new starter and plugs~ and also for some reason it starts rough meaning starts but makes a grinding noise almost like ive held the key over too long trying to start but I haven’t? I stop at O’Reilly to get my plug wires have the dude test the alternator and it passes, he does the code reading and pulls codes P1590 P0335 and P0134, first code I researched and could be why my brake light is on? Need to replace brakes, 2nd code is CPS, I just replaced this maybe 6mths ago! Can it be possible that I have recvd 2 lemon parts? Starter and CPS? 3rd code I hvent researched yet. I just really would like to figure out what the deal is, or could a bad connect cause these codes to come up in error? Cause the whole limp mode thing I’ve read about replacing XYZ Switch, is there a way to tell that switch is even bad before I go spend the money on one? Also before it goes into limp mode it kicks super hard and like misses I guess is the word, jumps rpms and sometimes itll do that (kick hard) a cpl times and the m & s lights never come on but 90% of the Time they do, I’ll pull one over cut it off, restart it and cont driving. Anyone? Help? Lol

I will look and yes they can clear them off as well as read them, just I’ve never really trusted their readers yet don’t wanna pay a dealership $100 just to run the diagnostics test either.

So I got it running good again, service engine soon light is on and red brake light also I feel like maybe just whole freaking electrical is messed up maybe, my red oil symbol light will illuminate sometimes while I press the brake, only when pressing the brake thou, hit gas and it’s goes away anyhow real reason I’m here is bc I read and replied on some keyless remote threads but they are years old and I doubt anyone will respond back. But I bought a remote~ flip key remote and now I’m finding out it’s not something I can do on my own? In my Nissan Titan it’s simple but I should’ve known better, ever since having This LR it’s been nothing but more money and more time and nothing and I mean nothing has ever came simple with it lol :-/

stopped/idled :/ but I will say after doing all the work I’ve done so far it’s not coming on as much but that would make perfect sense what you’re saying, how would I fix that? Low Oil pressure issue.