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Its a brand new master brake cylinder now, would I still need to check this?
Yes, brake master cylinders often come dead on arrival in my experience. Even brand new ones. You don't need to remove the lines again, just the two nuts on the booster.
You don't necessarily need an expensive Testbook to actuate the ABS module to help you bleed your brakes. You can google to find certain less expensive OBD diagnostic/scanner/code readers can do this task.
The cheaper route that I use to actuate the ABS module:
- get 8 feet of doubled speaker cable or a lamp power cord
- connect 2 wire spades to one end of cable cord
- then attach the other end of the cable cord to the terminals of a normally open (NO) pushbutton switch
- Remove ABS relay R10 in the engine bay
- insert the spade ends of the cable cord into the #3 & #5 female socket of R10
- turn ignition on
- while bleeding brakes, momentarily press push button (10 seconds max) on cable cord to power and actuate the ABS module.
That doesn't work properly only partially. The persons who proliferate this so called 'fix' need to fully understand the braking system and ABS module.
The braking system is in two distinct diagonal circuits, A and B, that idea merely activates the ABS module pump and NOT both the shuttle valves in sequence. You need to properly power bleed the ABS module to evacuate the air after changing the master cylinder or removing the ABS module, or indeed, removing all of the brake fluid for whatever reason. There are a few diag tools on the market capable of doing this but they aren't cheap.
Many people need to understand how ABS systems work properly on many vehicles, not just D2's, and not treat them as ordinary braking systems. Everything 'feels' great until you 'emergency brake' and rear end the vehicle in front of you, hopefully it's not a truck and you survive, assuming the 'air bags' deploy OK after 14+ years.
Last edited by OffroadFrance; Mar 13, 2018 at 05:43 AM.
That doesn't work properly only partially. The persons who proliferate this so called 'fix' need to fully understand the braking system and ABS module.
The braking system is in two distinct diagonal circuits, A and B, that idea merely activates the ABS module pump and NOT both the shuttle valves in sequence. You need to properly power bleed the ABS module to evacuate the air after changing the master cylinder or removing the ABS module, or indeed, removing all of the brake fluid for whatever reason. There are a few diag tools on the market capable of doing this but they aren't cheap.
Many people need to understand how ABS systems work properly on many vehicles, not just D2's, and not treat them as ordinary braking systems. Everything 'feels' great until you 'emergency brake' and rear end the vehicle in front of you, hopefully it's not a truck and you survive, assuming the 'air bags' deploy OK after 14+ years.
you are right this stuff is super tricky and for knowledgeable ppl only. I can only pray mine is okay. Bc the whole abs stuff I just don’t get really and don’t know if I even did that and seeing how red brake light is still on...prob not. All I know is I lost all brakes for a matter of seconds then they came back and all felt well again. And seeing how that happened shows I did not bleed them properly but I missed the back passenger Bc bolt was stripped but then replaced caliper shortly after
I just dealt with the red brake light coming on intermittenly not long ago. I did the bleed myself after checking out the video on Atlantic British. I'm pretty new to this and while I got the job done, the pedal just wasnt where it should be. I wound up replacing the calipers because the pistons on them were shot.
If your in East TN I think I might know the shop you mentioned in an earlier post. Rovers Unlimited is the name of the place? They are now Arsenal motorsports or something like that. I'd give them a call and ask for John or Brian. They do good work for a reasonable price, and are very knowledgeable. I wound up letting him do the calipers, but when I got my truck back the pedal was right where it should be. Of course, they also had the tools to perform the power bleed properly. I consider that my lesson learned.
I've never tried to force the switch to do it with the HDC. Can anyone else speak to whether that's a good option?
Yes in Bristol but this shop is in Kingsport? And I got the brakes right now just a whole other mess and yeah I’m gonna have to just break down and let someone else look at it. I swear it’s like worse now since changing the o2 sensors than it was before if that’s even possible considering the o2s on it were freaking seized in. Lol. I have a vibration underneath somewhere I can feel it when I back out the driveway and drive it eventually goes away OR I just don’t notice it after awhile not sure which. And my red brake light is staying on I’m getting an abs code and have noticed I have a leak which I posted pics of on another thread I have going so yeah it’s a mess
Nope this same thread lol sorry thought this was my old one but yeah I replaced both back calipers and mine went correct bc well I lost all brakes for Those few life altering seconds lol and when they came back they felt fine but you know after driving it the way it is I may have forgotten what it “should” feel like. You never know and getting that abs code can’t be good
These guys are in Karns. It may be closer to where your at. Not sure if they're taking new Rover clients but if you beg they might look at it. https://www.arsenalmse.com/ I've known them for awhile so I think they just have mercy on me.
Did you replace ALL the O2 sensors? Are you getting the 3 amigos as well, or is it just isolated to the brake light? I'd be very careful replacing calipers. I've heard and also had the experience of over-tightening the bleed screw, which can also cause a slow leak and the brake light to trigger back on.
So I haven’t been on in a month as things went south and I basically said F it and ready to sell. It truly sucks so bad so now it’s Buy another car or possibly pay someone thousands to fix this I did replace all 4 02 sensors with a cheap set off of eBay and maybe that’s the issue because I only paid 50 bucks for all for all I know is now it runs like crap sputters won’t even start but my gas was low so today I decided to go buy some gas and put in it so we’ll see what happens later because buying O2 sensors from the local stores here are going to cost me close to $100 each the way I feel is I’m not even sure if that will fix it So that’s hundreds that could be going towards the purchase of another car I just know if I sell this one I’m going to lose my *** really bad considering I paid 3000 for it and I’ve put about $1000 in parts on it
I hope that makes sense because I use talk to text as I’m driving right now to go get brand new oil and oriole filter to start with that because I feel like me putting the seafoam and the Lucas oil may have screwed it up because he didn’t have any of the sputtering problems and running like crap and till after I did the seafoam Lucas oil and then also does O2 sensors and of course I still have some sort of leak coming out the back driver side axle running down my dust shield and the XYZ switch apparently probably still is it adjusted properly
These guys are in Karns. It may be closer to where your at. Not sure if they're taking new Rover clients but if you beg they might look at it. https://www.arsenalmse.com/ I've known them for awhile so I think they just have mercy on me.
Did you replace ALL the O2 sensors? Are you getting the 3 amigos as well, or is it just isolated to the brake light? I'd be very careful replacing calipers. I've heard and also had the experience of over-tightening the bleed screw, which can also cause a slow leak and the brake light to trigger back on.
