The first one I pulled had 160000 on the odometer and looked perfect. The second one was 145k and looked perfect. I'd say ATL just got unlucky with that one. Good thing it is getting swapped.

 

So one more wrinkle in this pig....

Looks like the mount for the trans case on the passenger side is sheared off.

As in, the block of vulcanized rubber that mounts the T-case to the frame rail. I jacked the case up to get it out to lower it back, and it came out in 2 pieces...both had some rubber attached to them.

Maybe possible cause of shearing gears? Bad alignment?

Source for new one? Part number anyone? Do both at the same time?

 

Well - found 'em on Rovahfarm. Just ordering both, screw it I don't want to do this job again for a long time.

sigh....back to just staring at the rover, waiting on parts.....this is getting familiar....

 

So I got into the T-case today. My seal kit finally showed up, so I cracked open the donor case.

Looks pristine inside! Slight surface rust spots from sitting, but they wipe off with a shop rag. Gears all intact, etc.

Couple things I need some help with:

1) Why, O dear god why, are these sealed up with RTV?? I have the OEM gasket set, and have been scrubbing with brillo pads and wire brushes for the better part of 2 hours. Do I need to put that goopy junk back on it? The gaskets seem to fit and be well made...

2) The seals - I don't have a seal puller, so can i just fish them out with a screwdriver? Re-seating done like any other seal? I know they have little collar springs in them, but how hard are they to do?

Waiting on my mounts and rotoflex, supposedly here Wednesday, then I'll bench this thing into place.

Looking forward to having this car back, my old benz has crappy AC....

 

Gear Carnage. You can imagine how that sounded going down the road.

 

Not nice ................. I've never, ever seen a lunched transfer gear that bad in 45 years. It looks like a bearing failure or something has been floating around inside the case. To me that is unique fortunately but unfortunate for you.

 

ATL,

Can you give me a quick, general rundown on putting the Rovahfarm kit on? I got the same kit. I've never opened anything with gears in it.

Charlie V

 

By Rovahfarm kit, I'm assuming you mean gaskets and seals...

1) Pressure wash your donor case within an inch of it's life. Oh, and drain it of gear oil.

2) Kit contains everything you need for a full teardown and rebuild. I didn't do that.

3) first one I replaced was the inspection plate, its on the bottom, by drain plug. Take out 10mm bolts, 14mm bolt, and 2 studs. Tap the edge with a mallet to break loose the RTV nastiness.

4) Scrub it all clean, particularly the mating surfaces where the gaskets sit.

5) Scrub it again. Hope your significant other is running late so you have time to clean up the oil/soap mess from around the kitchen sink..

6) align gasket, install and snug 4 corner bolts first, then fill in perimeter. A picture taken with phone pre-teardown is helpful for putting bolts back in the right place.

Procedure is same for all junctions. I didn't want to break case apart, so I did the two inspection plates, the CDL gasket and left it at that. Oh, and the rear circular access panel and sandwich ring. You REALLY have to try the install with that removed. Laughably simpler.

Seal - I replaced the input seal where trans shaft enters. pry it out, don't lose any bits of it inside the case. I used a screwdriver. Don't mar up the aluminum case, it's soft. Seat seal with large socket, or gentle love with machinist mallet.

Basically, I looked at my donor case, and anywhere it was leaky and cruddy, I replaced. If it wasn't leaking, I said screw it. I can have this thing back out in 3 hours next time.

Save all gaskets and seals that you don't use. I firmly believe if you have the parts in the garage, the rover will behave. If you throw them out the rover gods will smite your wallet with firebolts.

 

Funny, You have to knock me out and DRAG me inside 285!

Or, give me a sporting event to go to!

 

As far as the RTV issue,

I have not done a TCase yet, but from my other experiences with Diffs and other projects, I have found that if there is not a issue with pressure and gap (like head gaskets), RTV can usually minimize leaks better than OEM gaskets.

Also, when dealing with soft metal matting surfaces, there can be the smallest pitting or scar that can cause a leak. Using a thin layer of RTV on both surfaces can minimize/resolve any possible leaking issues.

A rule of thumb that I use is, if the gasket does not come with a small silicone bead on it, I will put a thin layer of RTV on both surfaces, wait for it to get tacky, put the paper gasket on, gently snug everything, wait 20 minutes, then torque it down.

This has worked well for me in the past.

It is hopefully the last time you will ever have to deal with the TCase, so why not make sure it doesn't leak.

I would like to hear other thoughts on this.