If you go with a D1 shifter or ashcroft you will need to remove the center console inside.

If you are going to do that you might as well pull it now, that way you can disconnect and connect all the wiring from above. Easier to have a clear picture that way. Plus there is a nut on a stud at top dead center that is not a 15 that is easier to get to.

My $.02

 

There is a plastic breather tube on the top of the T-Case. Do Not try to pull the plastic tube off the nipple. You just need to remove the bolt I circled and it will come free with the collar still attached and you can tie it aside. Keep the 2 little washers also. It will be easy to reattach after the new t-case is installed.

 

@abran - I have the back plate off the T-case, which is inline with the trans spline.

There is a bolt in the center of the gear - does that come out? the gear doesn't seem to want to move at the moment.

@Charlie_V - how in the F does the second bolt on the front of the T-case come out? There seem to be 2 of them that hold the mounting bracket between the T-case and the Trans. Got the lower one off in 30 seconds, but having trouble finding the upper bolt.

This beast is almost free, and once my re-seal kit shows from RovahFarm I can button her back up....hopefully.

 

That bolt is actually the bolt that holds the trans spline to the trans assembly. You should be able to pull the gear out off of the trans spline, try rotating it back and forth a bit.

 

Got it! You clever friend who figured that out is a bloody genius!

That gear that I pulled out was FUBAR. Half the teeth were knocked off it.

No wonder that T-case was $h**ting the bed...

But it does make it nice and easy to remove.

Now I just have to figure out how to disconnect the parking brake cable and shifter, and lower the jack.

 

Dude.

Every gear in this thing is shattered.....

How the F does that happen? this is a former mall crawler I bought from an engineer.

Anywho, its out, free, etc. Got the donor case on the bench, waiting for my re-seal kit then I'll slap it back in.

Trans is mercifully clean and noise free.

What do I check on the new-to-me T-case before I throw it back in there?

 

My guy says look for shiny spots on gears, that means wear, and of course check the bearings.

I knew you would like the gear removal trick, amazed me!

 

Nice job getting the old T-Case out!! What did you use to lower it down and do you have any pictures of the bad gears by chance?

When re-sealing the T-Case I think you are supposed to wait 24 hours for the RTV to fully set before filling it up with new oil and returning to service. Make sure you wait the full time frame required so you don't have any leaks and have to pull it back out.

 

The removal was a little sketchy, but not terrible. I bought a Harbor freight trans jack, and strapped it to the T-case. I'm a bit of a gym junkie, so slinging around 55KG of rover-bits isn't that big a deal to me at this point. I'm sure that will change with age.

I'll get some pics of the gears tomorrow in daylight - they are pretty well mangled.

I've pressure washed my donor case, will finish cleaning it with wire brush and brake cleaner before I put on the bench and open her up.

Does anyone know the appx life expectancy of a transfer case? With proper oil changes of course? This one looks like a gear tooth cracked and then it just went apeS&*t in there on the rest of them.

Donor case has 98K on it, seems in good shape but will crack it open first. These things, mechanically speaking, are about as complex as a medium sized can opener.

 

I broke one down with 180k and it was super clean with almost no wear. My guru friend said it looked perfect. The donor vehicle had been well maintained. So, they should last a long time with proper maintenance.