ok i got a disco 2 2001 with 111,000 on it. i have had a few issues with the cooling system. i replaced all hoses and t also new thermostat, heater core, throttle body gasket, tune up, regular oil change, plugs, wires, and o2 on right bank upstream. now on to the problems i have a blown head gasket i think its just a external leak in the back of the engine. i can go about a 1,000 miles and only have to put about a qt in the reservoir, also so oil leak out of valve covers leaking down block. might have to put 1qt in between oil changes. also was told oil leak at driveshaft and a power steering leak at box but never had to put fluid in reservoir. exhaust leak at manifold loud ticking noise and last cruise control doesn't work was told vacuum lines were good? where to go with is next? is it really worth all this trouble i got the time and resources? got got a ultra gauge in and hooked up the other day so far just mass exhaust leak code


lot of work what do you guys think?
thanks
joe

 

The valve cover leak is easy, just tighten the bolts that hold them on, 8mm 12point socket.
Buy power steering fluid with stop leak in it, when you need to add use that, eventually the leak will stop.
The head gasket leak will get worse.

 

1. HG leak at back - is it from the heads - as shown in pix, or maybe the valley pan gasket (under intake - leaks at corners), which is cheaper and less labor to fix? We've had a number of posts of the bolts being found not very tight on back of intake.

2. Use your ultra gauge to keep eagle eye on coolant temp.

3. Exhaust leak can cause codes to keep coming back. Usually just gasket.

4. X2 on the valve cover snug up.

5. Oil on drive shaft? Oil from ?? Or is it tranny fluid?? Or on rear drive shaft is it transfer case lube? Inspection plate on T/C is prone to need re-seal.

6. Speaking of shafts, is your front shaft greased with zerk fittings, if not see prophaft rebuild in tech section, can chirp, split, poke hole in transmission..

7. Tick noises have multiple sources. Can be oil pump (cracked), see pix, check with manual pressure gauge; can be parts of SAI system if fited, can be flex plate that couples flywheel to transmission (cracked), and the always unpopular slipped sleeve.

8. Is it worth it? Most say yes.

 

will if you think its worth it i am going to start with a engine gasket set. is that a good start? what else do you think i need or need to do? as for coolant temp what is too hot it was up to 221 today?

 

1. I'd start with a download of the RAVE. In the workshop manual, cooling section, you'll find that the stock stat temp is starts to open at 180F and fully open at 204 F. Electric fan should come on a 212F to help cool engine down.

So 221 seem high. Perhaps radiator partially clogged (maybe some old Dexcool). MAybe new stat gunked up with mud chiggers released into system when other work was done (trash that got broken loose). The stat has small holes in the top leg, those bring hot coolant down into stat to warm up the body of the stat and make it open. I've always thought we needed a few more of these holes, because hot water has to move to get to stat.

2. Might want to crawl under truck and check prop shaft, we know we can do head gaskets for like $300 plus machine shop. But replacing a tranny is a whole lot more.

3. Before starting on all the work might want to do an oil pressure manual gauge test, this will let you know if there are other big issues that need to be done while opened up.

4. Be sure to buy new head bolts, they stretch once to fit.

5. Your new stat - was it oem? There have been a number of posts about new stats failing to open, and temp really going up.

6. When you are taking off the upper intake, do a pressure test on fuel pump, the schraeder test valve is under the rear of the intake an a PITA to get at normally.

 

Start with power scrubbing the engine, top and bottom then watch for new leaks to determine what to fix, then do the head gasket along with a new stat, replace the other 2 02 sensors and switch away from Dexcool to Peak if you haven't done it yet.
As for your statement regarding codes and only finding exhaust leaks, there are no codes for exhaust leaks so what are the exact fault code numbers?

 

I was in the same position you are in when I bought my '02. It can seem a bit overwhelming, but I found it was easier to take on the problems in order of importance. For me, getting the head gaskets done also took care of a number of smaller problems and leaks.
Download the Rave manual and get to know your truck. It makes dealing with the issues that will arise a lot easier. In the end, I'm glad I chose to fix the problems and plan to keep it for a long time to come.

 

I run at 221 around town at low speeds and have been for at least a year. Everything in my cooling system is new and there are no issues. 210 on the highway, a bit less on longer downhill runs. Never overheated or had issues. If you can get it cooler with those fixes though that is great. I've done everything that can be done and I'm at those temps and she goes just fine.
If you are in there though, you might as well also do a new water pump as they are not too much money.
I have the tick as well, and I actually thinking it is exaggerated by the d/s exhaust leak where the connection is before the o2 sensor. It is minor, and I didn't notice it was an actual leak until I did a seafoam cleaning and saw the smoke coming from down there.

 

Aren't disco motors aluminum? I always understood heat = bad for them. I'd try to get the temps down as much as I can..