New Adventure, Welcome Advice
Thread Starter
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Mudding
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 231
Likes: 112
New Adventure, Welcome Advice
This is gonna be long. I tried to spice it up some with some humor and some headings. Feel free to skip to what is relevant to you.
Got a Disco (mostly)
I started lurking here about a month ago when I picked up a 2001 Discovery 2 SE7 4.0 from a tow truck company for $400. The vehicle came without keys or catalytic converters and missing half it's O2 sensors. On the plus side it did come a healthy amount of the previous owners possessions including about 10 pairs of size 13 shoes, lots of clothes, a destroyed game console and based on the smell and stickiness about 10 gallons of spilled Starbucks cappuccino. I also got a nice binder with the previous owners parole papers and a certified copy of their birth certificate. Oh, and $8.42 in spare change to offset the oppressive price I had to pay.
The SUV was clearly city-mobiled with 22" Amazon special wheels and low profile tires. Luckily they are flat too, so I don't have to feel bad about tossing them. While the general condition is poor, given the price and my plan I can't complain too much.
Why I Wanted This
And what are my plans? I am glad you asked. The family has a cabin in the Uintah Mountains in Utah. The cabin is a about 150 yards east of a major state highway that is kept plowed year round. However, a direct path is pretty steep, and the access road is more like 0.75 miles from the highway to the cabin. Winter 2021 was mild and we were able to get within a quarter mile all season. This year has disabused us of the idea that such access is to be expected. I have come close to hiring Matt's Offroad Recovery twice now and haven't been to the cabin since just after Christmas when I walked half mile both ways in knee deep snow (yes, uphill! Both ways).
The intention is for the Disco to be the "get to the cabin and back" rig. Maybe we can accomplish that on 33's aired down. It will be nearly 1 ton lighter than the Suburban and over 1 ton lighter than my son-in-laws Power Wagon, so maybe. But more likely we will be installing some Dominator tracks during the winter months and trailering it down to the turn off. We considered and rejected snowmobiles and an Argo as they are not great options for some of the great-grandparents that want to enjoy the cabin in the winter.
But, lots to do to save the Disco between now and then.
What I Have Done (or What Have I Done)
Immobilizer - This was a big concern. I pulled the ignition cylinder out and stuck a screw-driver in the ignition switch. No red light. To my surprise it started right up. More on that below. I had been really concerned about EKA codes and having a new FOB programmed before I even knew if I had more than a parts car. Especially since the starter and fuel pump relays were pulled out. I was certain that the reason the car was abandoned was immobilizer related. But, looks like someone turned all that off already. (or there is a FOB still lurking in the car somewhere.)
Keys - I got cut codes from the dealer and had a key cut. Nope. Next I pulled the ignition cylinder and drivers door handle and took them to the locksmith and had a key made. They weren't the same key, and I am cheap, so I had them cut a key to fit the door and then pulled the ignition cylinder apart and re-wafered it to fit the door key. Yay! Keys!
Catalytic Carnage - Have pulled the remains of the Y pipe out, and recovered the two post cat O2 sensors. Both the sensors still have the connector, but one of them still has the "harness" side of the connector attached. I will have to re-pin those wires and install them back in the connector, as well as re-build or buy a Y pipe assembly with cats. Seems like buy is an easy button here.
The Inside - Having removed all previous owners belongings, the interior is in sad shape. I think everything I have dug into so far is just a little broken. Missing tabs, stripped screws, etc. I mentioned earlier that the center console had lots of dried sticky beverage, not to mention just general ick. Several of the seats are torn. I have pulled out the center console, drivers door panel and instrument cluster surround. In general I will be re-coloring these black before re-install. The instrument cluster surround I did with Herculiner, but it is too agressive a texture for inside a car. I have some SEM Trim Black inbound and will try that next to see if I get good adhesion. I am thinking I might get some bling on with aluminum diamond plate for the center console over-lay. What was left of the wood trim was not salvageable, and the plastic backing was only being held together by the wood trim adhesive. Power stuff is mostly working so far, though I haven't chanced the sunroof. It's closed and that is good enough for me for now.
The Outside - No rust on any panels (Not sure if they all are aluminum or only some or if I am wrong - again) and the frame is in good shape too. The paint is sun scorched and the front bumper cover is trashed. The passenger A-pillar cover was held on with tape, and the drivers C-pillar cover was held on with luck and half of one fastener. I have ideas that align with my cheapness.
The Engine - As mentioned above, it started right up. Yes I had check coolant (none) and oil (too much, but not chocolate shake) before I cranked it. It idles fine and doesn't make any funny colored exhaust, but without any exhaust past the manifolds it is a bit loud. But, touch the gas pedal and it stalls out, even in park or neutral. No codes (at least no engine codes. Of course there is an ABS code.) but clearly TPS, Idle Air, Mass Air and Crank Position aren't sending a coherent message to the ECU. Maybe it is the missing O2 sensors, but I think it is something more than that. Any thoughts or ideas would be useful, and yes I have run a search and read about the usual candidates.
The Drivetrain - It has a CDL capable transfer case (visually verified) and the transmission shifts into reverse/neutral/drive just fine. Of course with three flat tires and an engine that stalls past idle, it doesn't much move, but it tries without any nasty noises.
The Plan
Powerbarn - Get some coolant in it and run it up to temp, which may take a bit with only idle. See if anything untoward shows up in the process. There is coolant present in different grooves in the engine bay, but the plastic over-flow pipe looks to have been recently replaced with a rubber line. Here's hoping that event didn't damage anything. This test is just to provide some illumination before I tear the heads off and to inform me of just how much engine work I may be doing. Also, with the engine warm I can get compression numbers on the cylinders. Then the heads come off. I will be verifying the sleeves are still in place, checking the heads, putting in new head gaskets and installing ARP studs. I will also be replacing any sensor that looks sus, assuming it isn't two arms and a leg in price. Open to suggestions on other low-cost, big win tasks to undertake while this deep in the engine. New Y-pipe and cats during re-assembly, and with luck the idles but won't rev issue will be gone.
Tranny - Drain, filter, refill unless I find serious issues in the transmission pan.
T-case - I have a line on a CDL shifter out of a 2004, so that will be done. New fluid.
Front Drive Shaft will be upgraded to one with serviceable zerks.
Axles/Diffs - Initially just new fluids and verify wheel bearings. Down the road perhaps lockers and HD shafts.
Wheels - Yeah...those 22's gotta go. I have a line on some 16" Discovery wheels locally. If that falls through or is too much, I will probably just order some steel 16" wheels.
Suspension - Rear air is long gone, but the suspension is tired. Probably a Terra Firma 3" lift to get new springs, shocks and a little clearance for a 32.5-33" tire.
That's the story of why I am here. Here is an album of the beast for those that want some visual goodness: https://photos.app.goo.gl/tmBo8ByjQ7NJ33ia7
Looking forward to your feedback and suggestions on my journey!
Got a Disco (mostly)
I started lurking here about a month ago when I picked up a 2001 Discovery 2 SE7 4.0 from a tow truck company for $400. The vehicle came without keys or catalytic converters and missing half it's O2 sensors. On the plus side it did come a healthy amount of the previous owners possessions including about 10 pairs of size 13 shoes, lots of clothes, a destroyed game console and based on the smell and stickiness about 10 gallons of spilled Starbucks cappuccino. I also got a nice binder with the previous owners parole papers and a certified copy of their birth certificate. Oh, and $8.42 in spare change to offset the oppressive price I had to pay.
The SUV was clearly city-mobiled with 22" Amazon special wheels and low profile tires. Luckily they are flat too, so I don't have to feel bad about tossing them. While the general condition is poor, given the price and my plan I can't complain too much.
Why I Wanted This
And what are my plans? I am glad you asked. The family has a cabin in the Uintah Mountains in Utah. The cabin is a about 150 yards east of a major state highway that is kept plowed year round. However, a direct path is pretty steep, and the access road is more like 0.75 miles from the highway to the cabin. Winter 2021 was mild and we were able to get within a quarter mile all season. This year has disabused us of the idea that such access is to be expected. I have come close to hiring Matt's Offroad Recovery twice now and haven't been to the cabin since just after Christmas when I walked half mile both ways in knee deep snow (yes, uphill! Both ways).
The intention is for the Disco to be the "get to the cabin and back" rig. Maybe we can accomplish that on 33's aired down. It will be nearly 1 ton lighter than the Suburban and over 1 ton lighter than my son-in-laws Power Wagon, so maybe. But more likely we will be installing some Dominator tracks during the winter months and trailering it down to the turn off. We considered and rejected snowmobiles and an Argo as they are not great options for some of the great-grandparents that want to enjoy the cabin in the winter.
But, lots to do to save the Disco between now and then.
What I Have Done (or What Have I Done)
Immobilizer - This was a big concern. I pulled the ignition cylinder out and stuck a screw-driver in the ignition switch. No red light. To my surprise it started right up. More on that below. I had been really concerned about EKA codes and having a new FOB programmed before I even knew if I had more than a parts car. Especially since the starter and fuel pump relays were pulled out. I was certain that the reason the car was abandoned was immobilizer related. But, looks like someone turned all that off already. (or there is a FOB still lurking in the car somewhere.)
Keys - I got cut codes from the dealer and had a key cut. Nope. Next I pulled the ignition cylinder and drivers door handle and took them to the locksmith and had a key made. They weren't the same key, and I am cheap, so I had them cut a key to fit the door and then pulled the ignition cylinder apart and re-wafered it to fit the door key. Yay! Keys!
Catalytic Carnage - Have pulled the remains of the Y pipe out, and recovered the two post cat O2 sensors. Both the sensors still have the connector, but one of them still has the "harness" side of the connector attached. I will have to re-pin those wires and install them back in the connector, as well as re-build or buy a Y pipe assembly with cats. Seems like buy is an easy button here.
The Inside - Having removed all previous owners belongings, the interior is in sad shape. I think everything I have dug into so far is just a little broken. Missing tabs, stripped screws, etc. I mentioned earlier that the center console had lots of dried sticky beverage, not to mention just general ick. Several of the seats are torn. I have pulled out the center console, drivers door panel and instrument cluster surround. In general I will be re-coloring these black before re-install. The instrument cluster surround I did with Herculiner, but it is too agressive a texture for inside a car. I have some SEM Trim Black inbound and will try that next to see if I get good adhesion. I am thinking I might get some bling on with aluminum diamond plate for the center console over-lay. What was left of the wood trim was not salvageable, and the plastic backing was only being held together by the wood trim adhesive. Power stuff is mostly working so far, though I haven't chanced the sunroof. It's closed and that is good enough for me for now.
The Outside - No rust on any panels (Not sure if they all are aluminum or only some or if I am wrong - again) and the frame is in good shape too. The paint is sun scorched and the front bumper cover is trashed. The passenger A-pillar cover was held on with tape, and the drivers C-pillar cover was held on with luck and half of one fastener. I have ideas that align with my cheapness.
The Engine - As mentioned above, it started right up. Yes I had check coolant (none) and oil (too much, but not chocolate shake) before I cranked it. It idles fine and doesn't make any funny colored exhaust, but without any exhaust past the manifolds it is a bit loud. But, touch the gas pedal and it stalls out, even in park or neutral. No codes (at least no engine codes. Of course there is an ABS code.) but clearly TPS, Idle Air, Mass Air and Crank Position aren't sending a coherent message to the ECU. Maybe it is the missing O2 sensors, but I think it is something more than that. Any thoughts or ideas would be useful, and yes I have run a search and read about the usual candidates.
The Drivetrain - It has a CDL capable transfer case (visually verified) and the transmission shifts into reverse/neutral/drive just fine. Of course with three flat tires and an engine that stalls past idle, it doesn't much move, but it tries without any nasty noises.
The Plan
Powerbarn - Get some coolant in it and run it up to temp, which may take a bit with only idle. See if anything untoward shows up in the process. There is coolant present in different grooves in the engine bay, but the plastic over-flow pipe looks to have been recently replaced with a rubber line. Here's hoping that event didn't damage anything. This test is just to provide some illumination before I tear the heads off and to inform me of just how much engine work I may be doing. Also, with the engine warm I can get compression numbers on the cylinders. Then the heads come off. I will be verifying the sleeves are still in place, checking the heads, putting in new head gaskets and installing ARP studs. I will also be replacing any sensor that looks sus, assuming it isn't two arms and a leg in price. Open to suggestions on other low-cost, big win tasks to undertake while this deep in the engine. New Y-pipe and cats during re-assembly, and with luck the idles but won't rev issue will be gone.
Tranny - Drain, filter, refill unless I find serious issues in the transmission pan.
T-case - I have a line on a CDL shifter out of a 2004, so that will be done. New fluid.
Front Drive Shaft will be upgraded to one with serviceable zerks.
Axles/Diffs - Initially just new fluids and verify wheel bearings. Down the road perhaps lockers and HD shafts.
Wheels - Yeah...those 22's gotta go. I have a line on some 16" Discovery wheels locally. If that falls through or is too much, I will probably just order some steel 16" wheels.
Suspension - Rear air is long gone, but the suspension is tired. Probably a Terra Firma 3" lift to get new springs, shocks and a little clearance for a 32.5-33" tire.
That's the story of why I am here. Here is an album of the beast for those that want some visual goodness: https://photos.app.goo.gl/tmBo8ByjQ7NJ33ia7
Looking forward to your feedback and suggestions on my journey!
Welcome, for a wild suggestion and one I have not seen in the US implemented but some bolt on portal axles would be probably the best case scenario for you as you'd truly move the axles up 3-4" plus the ability to run 33 or 35s and gain even more clearance. Since the goal is to not get the frame buried in the snow..not cheap but probably cheaper than tracks...
A winch and a tree strap works wonders if you do end up getting stuck in deep snow (assuming you have something to winch too along the driveway). For the price of a new front bumper and a winch it can be cheap insurance of getting unstuck out there.
Thread Starter
|
Mudding
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 231
Likes: 112
whowa004, thanks for the suggestion.
I had considered portal hubs, but there are a couple of complications. I can't find a US supplier that offers them for Disco axles. TIBUS makes them, but I can't find a US distributor. I will reach out to them. And maybe I need better google-foo.
The ones I can find, such as the axletech/us gear option, are about the same price ($9,400) as a set of four Dominator tracks for an SUV ($9,500). And the axletech option would require front/rear axle swaps to a compatible axle, usually something in the 1 ton range like a Dana 60, Ford Sterling, GM 14 Bolt. The axle swaps would definitely push this above the cost of Dominator tracks.
I had considered portal hubs, but there are a couple of complications. I can't find a US supplier that offers them for Disco axles. TIBUS makes them, but I can't find a US distributor. I will reach out to them. And maybe I need better google-foo.
The ones I can find, such as the axletech/us gear option, are about the same price ($9,400) as a set of four Dominator tracks for an SUV ($9,500). And the axletech option would require front/rear axle swaps to a compatible axle, usually something in the 1 ton range like a Dana 60, Ford Sterling, GM 14 Bolt. The axle swaps would definitely push this above the cost of Dominator tracks.
Thread Starter
|
Mudding
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 231
Likes: 112
A winch anchor maybe would work, and a winch is definitely in the plan. Mounted to a receiver plate along with a custom front bumper with a hitch receiver so I can move the winch from front to back as needed.
whowa004, thanks for the suggestion.
I had considered portal hubs, but there are a couple of complications. I can't find a US supplier that offers them for Disco axles. TIBUS makes them, but I can't find a US distributor. I will reach out to them. And maybe I need better google-foo.
The ones I can find, such as the axletech/us gear option, are about the same price ($9,400) as a set of four Dominator tracks for an SUV ($9,500). And the axletech option would require front/rear axle swaps to a compatible axle, usually something in the 1 ton range like a Dana 60, Ford Sterling, GM 14 Bolt. The axle swaps would definitely push this above the cost of Dominator tracks.
I had considered portal hubs, but there are a couple of complications. I can't find a US supplier that offers them for Disco axles. TIBUS makes them, but I can't find a US distributor. I will reach out to them. And maybe I need better google-foo.
The ones I can find, such as the axletech/us gear option, are about the same price ($9,400) as a set of four Dominator tracks for an SUV ($9,500). And the axletech option would require front/rear axle swaps to a compatible axle, usually something in the 1 ton range like a Dana 60, Ford Sterling, GM 14 Bolt. The axle swaps would definitely push this above the cost of Dominator tracks.
says out of stock but I doubt they sold many so why have them sitting around. Could probably get them to make you a set. Add lockers and tires and would be pretty solid.
Thread Starter
|
Mudding
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 231
Likes: 112
Thanks for that link. That is a great option. I would very much like to avoid tracks in I can, not just for expense of the tracks, but for the convenience of not having to trailer the tracked vehicle the first 100 miles.