There's nothing in a stray fob that would disable the immobilizer. They don't have RFID chips in them.

 

It looks like you're missing the rear window wiper arm

 

I had read conflicting accounts. Some places say the older keys had the RFID, some places say the FOB was the magic sauce. Whatever it was, I have a plain steel ilco key blank cut to match the wafers and nothing else. I can only guess that at some point all the anti-theft options in the BCU were disabled.

 

Well, it looks like portals are a bust. I contacted three companies and all of them responded that they no longer make portal boxes for the Disco.

DSTrac provided feedback that they will sell complete replacement axles, but not portal boxes only:

Having slept on this idea, I think it is probably for the best to stick with tracks. Even with 38" tires I would have concerns about getting stuck. Based on what I have seen and read, tracks do not leave me with any concerns.

 

I agree for your application tracks make the most sense.

That is super frustrating and kind of a lame response considering portal boxes prime benefit is to be able to keep a drive line stock and run larger tires/clearance...I could see stock being an issue but ashcroft (RCV) shafts are lifetime warrantied to 35" tires so I can't imagine those being too weak for portals and 37s...

 

No affiliation but if these work on the classic jeep cherokee they should be adaptable to D2: DIY Snow Tracks

 

Thanks. I have watched several of the videos in that build series. I am on the fence if my fabrication skills are up to that challenge.

 

Good progress today!

Coolant topped off. It took about 1.5 gallons. Still concerned about why it was low, and why there is coolant in the nooks on the airbox, but no obvious leaks.

Started and idled until the temp stabilized on the ultra-gauge. That occurred at 167 F. Heat blew hot and no obvious leaks anywhere.

Still would not rev much above idle. If I was ginger with the throttle shuttle I could get to maybe 1500 rpm before it started coughing and sputtering. I noticed as I would let back off, it would jump another 100 rpm or so for just a second before it dropped back to idle.

So, I thought on that a minute, and decided that bump was probably the mixture stabilizing when the throttle butterfly closed before the fuel cut out. Idle air control is the item involved in that process most likely to respond to a good cleaning, so I pulled it off, hosed it out with B12, and ....

Boom! Runs fine. Revs gladly as far as I want.

Also, once it warmed up I got check engine light and some codes. P0134 and P0154. I know, weird given the complete non-existence of the O2 sensors that are missing along with the cats.

So, anyone have advice on getting a new Y-pipe with catalytic converters? Any reason not to try to get them off a parts car?

 

I've been keeping my eye out for a parts truck for the last year. I helped my brother-in-law buy a cheap Disco a couple of years back - last year he had someone cut the cats off at his apartment complex in SLC. We were going to just buy a parts truck and snag the exhaust rather than invest in new parts. The closest thing I ever found was a Disco in Flagstaff AZ for $600. They are really hard to come by these days.

He ended up getting a whole new system from Rock Auto.

 

Roger that. Just ordered. Be here in about a week.