Preparing for the arrival of the new downpipe/cat/Y assembly later this week I thought I would go ahead and get the old down pipes out. Seems simple enough. Knowing they were threaded components in an exhaust system I was expecting a bit of a challenge.

But not what I found.

I started on passenger. Lots of room above and thought I might get at them without walrusing around under the car. Reached down to feel the nut on the bottom of the flange and it felt....weird.

So, under I went to take a look. That look revealed that at some point the down pipe had come free from the flange and a three year old with some 6011 rod had "fixed" it.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/XiiwNqNe4DFZkRHp7

Not only had they "fixed" the down pipe 2-1 collector back into the flange, but they did it in place and "fixed" the two nuts and one bolt (?) to the flange as well. I guess I got my wish...I just removed the manifold, which I was able to accomplish from the top on the passenger side. About 15 minutes with a cold chisel had the two nuts split and another 10 minutes with a dremel cut-off wheel and I had the bolt head cut off and the down pipe and manifold separated.

One of the studs has a huge weld bead in the threads near the top, and the bolt shaft will have to be drilled. Vice grips and heat failed to budge it.

Drivers side was on decent shape, but again had two studs and one bolt. The nuts came right off, but the bolt snapped, despite heat and patience. By that time it was late, so later today I will pull the drivers side manifold and then set each one up in the mill to drill and then chase the threads. I have a new stud set on the way and should have everything I need in hand next Saturday. With luck in a week it will run and pass emissions (assuming I can locate the passenger bank 2 O2 sensor wire, which so far I can't.)

 

@sqlbullet Just check before milling on the holes is not a through. But what a mess.

 

Roger that and thanks for the reminder.

both the broken bolts are luckily in "through" locations and not the blind hole. I do have a flat bottom tap of the right size, but through holes make the drill out job so much easier.

One question. RAVE and the parts kits show/ship with three studs/flanged nuts on each side. However, my front pipe assemblies had two studs and a flange head bolt on each side.

Is there a reason/advantage to use two studs and one bolt rather than three studs?

 

@sqlbullet mine has 3 studs - have no idea why theyare different

 

Can someone verify that the circled wires above are where the passenger rear HO2S would have connected? The connector was torn from the wires and I have had a devil of a time locating where I need to patch it.

And, in the likely event this is the spot, anyone have any suggestions on how to get in there and repair this. I am thinking I may have to drop the transfer case.

 

I can't tell on the wires for sure, but you can look in the RAVE at the connector section, look at the one for the sensor and you should be able to figure it out. You can remove the console from inside the truck and then the shifter plate by drilling out the rivets and reach the wires there. Take you about 30 minutes to get to it.

 

Thanks for the guidance on coming in from the top. I was really not wanting to drop the transfer case.

 

Look at me getting back to this after NINE MONTHS. FML.

But I am finally back at this and it is finally going back together. Cats in, O2 Sensors in, punting on the center diff lock shifter since I need to get this on the road and actually find out what does and doesn't work.

Here is my current question for the cognoscenti of the DII center console.

The tabs that the switch plate is supposed to attach to are long gone. My idea is a bracket on the back that everything can attach to. I have the bracket made and have bench installed it with the console out of the car:


From the front

From the back

Out of the car this required three hands and several contributions to the swear jar to get everything lined up. In the car where I can't put my third hand behind and hold stuff, it will just not work. That bracket has to be attached to the console.

Options are some 3M two sided automotive tape, rivets, sheet metal screws, rivnuts.

I am leaning towards the 3M adhesive tape. In reality, I only need something to hold it until the four face screws are in. Those screws reach clear through and sandwich it all together. The tape will make it semi-permanent and should provide some cushion against rattles and squeaks. Close second is some sheet metal screws as they are very removable, though less reversible since there would be holes in the console. Rivets make holes still and are the least reversable. I fear riv-nuts might interfere with stuff given how far they stick through.

Anyone have a counter opinion on the 3M tape, or a validation?

 

I've used the 3M VHB tape before and it it will make a strong bond. It can be removed but takes effort so it actually sounds pretty ideal for your task (If I understand it correctly). I once used it to stick two pieces of wood together and when I tried to pry them apart the wood delaminated before the tape came off. I'm also currently using it to adhere my "Series II" badge to the back of my Disco, I applied it 8 months ago and is still holding strong through hot and cold!

 

I recommend loctite PL 3x. Sand both pieces, flame treat the plastic, allow to cure for 24 hrs. Strong as the original plastic.