New Ball Joints Squeeking, Should I Be Worried?
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Mudding
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 215
Likes: 21
From: Kauai, Hawaii
New Ball Joints Squeeking, Should I Be Worried?
Just completed both sides upper and lower ball joints but the steering knuckles are a little firm to turn. Put tires back on and they’re squeeking when turning at stand still due to being tight. I looked into it online and I did two things incorrectly:
1) I torqued the bottom ball joint to the correct value of 100 ft/lbs but I tightened it first when RAVE states to do upper first.
2) I then did the upper joint nut to 100 ft/lbs rather that 80. I searched all torque values on RAVE and couldn’t for the life of me find the upper ball joint torque value so I just matched the bottom.
This job took me a total of apprx 18 hrs over 4 days to complete (steering knuckles and hubs were rusted shut like a mother) and I reeeeally don’t want to take everything apart again to reset torque. So I took an open ended wrench and slightly backed off the upper nuts an 1/8th of a turn to try and accommodate the extra 20 ft/lbs I applied previously.
I know this a dumb question but would this suffice for now? And they just need to break in due to being new? On top of that I tore the boot on driver side due to the $200 removal kit I got from Autozone didn’t have the correct fittings. 23 piece set and they done have just 1 fitting that would work. Had to jimmy rig the other side. I know I should redo them but I’m so frikin over it at the moment.
i need someone to tell me every little things gonna be alright!
1) I torqued the bottom ball joint to the correct value of 100 ft/lbs but I tightened it first when RAVE states to do upper first.
2) I then did the upper joint nut to 100 ft/lbs rather that 80. I searched all torque values on RAVE and couldn’t for the life of me find the upper ball joint torque value so I just matched the bottom.
This job took me a total of apprx 18 hrs over 4 days to complete (steering knuckles and hubs were rusted shut like a mother) and I reeeeally don’t want to take everything apart again to reset torque. So I took an open ended wrench and slightly backed off the upper nuts an 1/8th of a turn to try and accommodate the extra 20 ft/lbs I applied previously.
I know this a dumb question but would this suffice for now? And they just need to break in due to being new? On top of that I tore the boot on driver side due to the $200 removal kit I got from Autozone didn’t have the correct fittings. 23 piece set and they done have just 1 fitting that would work. Had to jimmy rig the other side. I know I should redo them but I’m so frikin over it at the moment.
i need someone to tell me every little things gonna be alright!
Last edited by TaylorCadence; Jul 6, 2018 at 03:55 PM.
Mudding
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 161
Likes: 39
From: Fort Collins, Co
Just completed both sides upper and lower ball joints but the steering knuckles are a little firm to turn. Put tires back on and they’re squeeking when turning at stand still due to being tight. I looked into it online and I did two things incorrectly:
1) I torqued the bottom ball joint to the correct value of 100 ft/lbs but I tightened it first when RAVE states to do upper first.
2) I then did the upper joint nut to 100 ft/lbs rather that 80. I searched all torque values on RAVE and couldn’t for the life of me find the upper ball joint torque value so I just matched the bottom.
This job took me a total of apprx 18 hrs over 4 days to complete (steering knuckles and hubs were rusted shut like a mother) and I reeeeally don’t want to take everything apart again to reset torque. So I took an open ended wrench and slightly backed off the upper nuts an 1/8th of a turn to try and accommodate the extra 20 ft/lbs I applied previously.
I know this a dumb question but would this suffice for now? And they just need to break in due to being new? On top of that I tore the boot on driver side due to the $200 removal kit I got from Autozone didn’t have the correct fittings. 23 piece set and they done have just 1 fitting that would work. Had to jimmy rig the other side. I know I should redo them but I’m so frikin over it at the moment.
i need someone to tell me every little things gonna be alright!
1) I torqued the bottom ball joint to the correct value of 100 ft/lbs but I tightened it first when RAVE states to do upper first.
2) I then did the upper joint nut to 100 ft/lbs rather that 80. I searched all torque values on RAVE and couldn’t for the life of me find the upper ball joint torque value so I just matched the bottom.
This job took me a total of apprx 18 hrs over 4 days to complete (steering knuckles and hubs were rusted shut like a mother) and I reeeeally don’t want to take everything apart again to reset torque. So I took an open ended wrench and slightly backed off the upper nuts an 1/8th of a turn to try and accommodate the extra 20 ft/lbs I applied previously.
I know this a dumb question but would this suffice for now? And they just need to break in due to being new? On top of that I tore the boot on driver side due to the $200 removal kit I got from Autozone didn’t have the correct fittings. 23 piece set and they done have just 1 fitting that would work. Had to jimmy rig the other side. I know I should redo them but I’m so frikin over it at the moment.
i need someone to tell me every little things gonna be alright!
I did mine a couple months ago and it took me like 5 hours.......and it was a motherfu**er as well............and had same problem on upper ball joint.....boot a little pinched......
I torqued em down to spec per alldata.....
Mine do not squeak at all....
I bought literally the least expensive ones I could...like $48 for all four from Lucky8....so far so good...
Does it squeak going over bumps? .
Thread Starter
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Mudding
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 215
Likes: 21
From: Kauai, Hawaii
I did mine a couple months ago and it took me like 5 hours.......and it was a motherfu**er as well............and had same problem on upper ball joint.....boot a little pinched......
I torqued em down to spec per alldata.....
Mine do not squeak at all....
I bought literally the least expensive ones I could...like $48 for all four from Lucky8....so far so good...
Does it squeak going over bumps? .
I torqued em down to spec per alldata.....
Mine do not squeak at all....
I bought literally the least expensive ones I could...like $48 for all four from Lucky8....so far so good...
Does it squeak going over bumps? .
i know right, frustrating *** job...
nope, no squeeks on bumps. Just tension rubbing types of squeeks when I’m turning wheel
peft to right, not moving either in park or have breaks on.
Camel Trophy
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 4,867
Likes: 1,410
From: Michigan
You should never, ever loosen a suspension fastener/nut/bolt once torqued/tightened. You used 100 pounds of torque to pull the tapered shaft of the ball-joint into the seat...and then reduced the torque. Basically, allowing it to come loose someday.
You should loosen or remove nut until you can unseat ball-joint, then reinstall nut and torque to desired torque specification...and replace boot while you are at it.
Not sure why you would be getting squeaking noise, unless you damaged the upper/inner dome shape cup of the ball-joint?
While installing, you should only apply force/pressure to the outer lip/edge of the ball-joint housing...never...ever...to the center domed cup area, which makes rotating contact inside the ball-joint with ball portion of joint.
Brian.
You should loosen or remove nut until you can unseat ball-joint, then reinstall nut and torque to desired torque specification...and replace boot while you are at it.
Not sure why you would be getting squeaking noise, unless you damaged the upper/inner dome shape cup of the ball-joint?
While installing, you should only apply force/pressure to the outer lip/edge of the ball-joint housing...never...ever...to the center domed cup area, which makes rotating contact inside the ball-joint with ball portion of joint.
Brian.
Camel Trophy
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 4,867
Likes: 1,410
From: Michigan
Yes, agree...100 pounds isn't the issue. My comments were only directed at him loosening the nut and how he should rectify that issue. Torquing the ball-joint to 100 pounds should cause no ill side-effects. He could actually just tighten the nut back up to 100 pounds, if he liked and IF it doesn't feel as though it is stripping out. If you feel any sense of stripping, stop and start from the beginning (removing nut, loosening ball-joint from spindle and reassembling to proper torque specs).
Brian.
Brian.
Thread Starter
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Mudding
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 215
Likes: 21
From: Kauai, Hawaii
You should never, ever loosen a suspension fastener/nut/bolt once torqued/tightened. You used 100 pounds of torque to pull the tapered shaft of the ball-joint into the seat...and then reduced the torque. Basically, allowing it to come loose someday.
You should loosen or remove nut until you can unseat ball-joint, then reinstall nut and torque to desired torque specification...and replace boot while you are at it.
Not sure why you would be getting squeaking noise, unless you damaged the upper/inner dome shape cup of the ball-joint?
While installing, you should only apply force/pressure to the outer lip/edge of the ball-joint housing...never...ever...to the center domed cup area, which makes rotating contact inside the ball-joint with ball portion of joint.
Brian.
You should loosen or remove nut until you can unseat ball-joint, then reinstall nut and torque to desired torque specification...and replace boot while you are at it.
Not sure why you would be getting squeaking noise, unless you damaged the upper/inner dome shape cup of the ball-joint?
While installing, you should only apply force/pressure to the outer lip/edge of the ball-joint housing...never...ever...to the center domed cup area, which makes rotating contact inside the ball-joint with ball portion of joint.
Brian.
Last edited by TaylorCadence; Jul 7, 2018 at 06:14 PM.