Ok, so if you've seen my previous two threads (the important one found here: https://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-ii-18/need-some-help-wiring-diagram-77345/) you know the trouble I'm having with my truck. I finished my exhaust up, it was running great, and two miles down the road she sputtered to a stop. Tried to restart her and she wouldnt crank. Turned the key to off and tried again, started for a second and sputtered to its death again. Tried to restart once more and she wouldn't start, no tach movement. I assume its the Crank Position Sensor.

I try to replace the CKP with a new one and end up breaking the harness side plug. Frustrated, I ask Abran to send me a new one. It comes in, I spend two days going through wiring diagrams and trudging around in the snow and cold trying to fix it. Finally get it rewired, and I'm positive the wiring is correct. The factory wire is shielded, so I use shielded coaxial cable and solder everything up. Tape everything so nothing grounds out, plug the thing in, charge up the battery, add a couple gallons of extra gas, try to crank again. No luck. I pull a spark plug and set it against my header, no spark. Still no tach movement, but I haven't gotten to see if my scanner will pick anything up yet.

At this point, I've been working for three days in the snow in sub 20 degree weather. I'm frozen and frustrated. Any help you could give would be exceptionally helpful.

 

I had similar issue awhile back and got some help from the forum. I simply unplugged my MAF sensor and boom truck fired up, plug it back in and died right away. After replacing sensor with a original Bosch sensor all was good. Apparently with sensor unplugged truck reverts to run a little rich to keep itself running. Idk if it helps but it's a quick and easy fix for short term. Also my ultragauge never showed RPMs when turning the truck over. Good luck

 

I'm afraid I've tried with and without the MAF plugged in, however my front O2s have been unplugged since I pulled the harness up. Could that possibly be the issue? I'm not sure if the truck will run with both the MAF and the O2s unplugged. I may try plugging them in and seeing tomorrow if I can fish the drivers side O2 plug back down.

 

I feel I should also include, it has been doing this thing for a few months; on occasion, not horribly often, it will sometimes struggle to start. It will just crank a second or two longer than usual instead of its normal starting right up. It also does this thing every single time at WOT where it will reach around 3k RPM and it hits a flat spot. The RPMs completely stop climbing for a split second, and even decrease a little before climbing back up. Hopefully that helps.

 

Have you considered CKP sensor you just installed is tango uniform? Is it new or come from vehicle you witnessed running?
......

 

I haven't really. It's brand spanking new. I suppose I could try a warrantee replacement, but ill have to wait at least a week.

 

The bit that confuses me the most upon thinking back is that it did restart the night it died on the road, if only for a second. Then it sputtered and I tried to give it gas, but it died right back after only a second or two of sputtering.

Edit: Ok, so I'm doing some reading and I'm seeing some other possibilities. Cam sensor (read somewhere that it also controls spark?), fuse box (all the fuses are good, but I don't know about the box. Kinda weird that it restarted if that's the issue, but I'm willing to entertain it.), fuel pump (seems unlikely with no spark, but it's easy to listen for so I'll check it.), ECU (I've got an extra ECU, BCU, and Cluster I could swap. Not sure if they're good either, but I could try.

 

Since you mentioned that throttle business there is TPS on the throttle body. I know on newer cars that if you plant your foot firmly onto the floor and try to crank it, all you get is a motor that will turn over but no fire up. Lift your foot off the floor and boom it'll fire up. Never have tried that on a LR, but maybe your TPS is inop so the BOSCH ECU see's a WOT at startup and won't attempt to start due to that.

 

Interesting idea. I looked it up in the RAVE and found the following symptoms for TPS sensor failure.

l Engine performance concern.
l Delayed throttle response.
l Failure of emission control.
l Closed loop idle speed control inoperative.
l Automatic gearbox kickdown inoperative.
l Incorrect altitude adaptation.
l MIL illuminated (NAS only).

Some other possibly relevant info I just remembered. I did accidentally bridge the starter motor + to the block when I was tightening down the headers. Disconnected the battery after that, but it did happen and sparked pretty good then cranked for several seconds when I went to restart it again the first time.

 

The clues in all this drama is the tach signal that points directly to the CKP as does no spark. I can't believe your not more involved in reading the Rave....... Two very important points are made in the Rave concerning that sensor - It is vital that the CKP sensor output wires are not reversed (i.e. the connector is fitted incorrectly) as this will cause
a 3° advance in ignition timing. This happens because the ECM uses the falling edge of the signal waveform as its reference or timing point for each passing tooth on the reluctor. AND more importantly -Whenever a new crankshaft position sensor is fitted or the flywheel is removed, the adaptive values will have to be reset, using TestBook. (or you get the same exact symptoms you had previously is what it doesn't say.......) So I would double check my wire work and find an indy with an Autologic that can reset your adaptives once you get the thing running again. There are "similar threads" also posted in relation to your post, you should read them as well, double check your sanity too (quit second guessing) and get on with it.