New to Disco
#11
#12
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@MattR that is probably just draw down from the failed starts.
12.8 at the battery is good, mine will actually start at 11.6 or so - but it starts at 1st crank pretty much every time.
Could be a CPS they get squirrely with age
Check every single hose and your air box. Disco's will go into limp mode and flash M&S if there is any significant air intake from after the MAF
Could be the alternator - if it is dodgey you may not be getting enough voltage
Also check all the grounds under the hood there are a bunch 7 or 8 I think even one loose one can cause weird stuff
Finally check for pending codes
12.8 at the battery is good, mine will actually start at 11.6 or so - but it starts at 1st crank pretty much every time.
Could be a CPS they get squirrely with age
Check every single hose and your air box. Disco's will go into limp mode and flash M&S if there is any significant air intake from after the MAF
Could be the alternator - if it is dodgey you may not be getting enough voltage
Also check all the grounds under the hood there are a bunch 7 or 8 I think even one loose one can cause weird stuff
Finally check for pending codes
#13
#15
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Is the 12.8v standing or when running? That might be a dumb question as you can’t get it to start, but for running that seems really low. Mine is at 14.1-14.4v when running, but at your voltage when not running.
I’m leaning to the alternator based on what you’ve said. I also agree with Richard and checking your intake hoses. Check your ground on the chassis too for the battery and see what it looks like.
But as both Richard and I mentioned, the CPS can get wonky as can the XYZ switch, but it sound a bit like your charging system would be the best place to start.
And based on your other thread, sounds like you need a proper code reader as well.
I’m leaning to the alternator based on what you’ve said. I also agree with Richard and checking your intake hoses. Check your ground on the chassis too for the battery and see what it looks like.
But as both Richard and I mentioned, the CPS can get wonky as can the XYZ switch, but it sound a bit like your charging system would be the best place to start.
And based on your other thread, sounds like you need a proper code reader as well.
#16
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Have you taken it to a car parts store for a proper charging test? Voltage tells you one part of the equation but its also important to know if the alternator is outputting a sufficient current under load. Alternators go bad all the time and was actually the first thing I had to replace when I bought my D2 even though the previous owner just swapped it out (it was the only shiny thing under the hood!). I bought an inexpensive replacement off of Amazon and it's doing fine so far. The alternator is pretty easy to replace yourself.
#17
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@OP, we are in the same boat- new to this platform. Should be fun!
![Disco](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/smilies/discorover.gif)
edit: My D2 has a completely roached battery, it will start but only with a box on it. Driving home it wouldn't go into OD and I had the same codes on the dash, so definitely try and put a fresh batter in there or charge it.
#18
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Other than downloading the manuals (all are in the google drive in my sig), get a OBD dongle and use your smart phone to help see what is going on.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...02/#post581013
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...02/#post581013
#19
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Thanks for response, yeah that is standing as cannot get the darn thing to run! Yeah I think at this point I need the codes read, will check the other options you and Richard have listed too.
One quick question on the chassis ground for battery... where is it? I have tried to Google but cannot seem to find a single definitive answer.
Cheers, Matt
One quick question on the chassis ground for battery... where is it? I have tried to Google but cannot seem to find a single definitive answer.
Cheers, Matt
#20