New Discovery II "owner"; engine swap-out advice
#1
06-19-2014, 11:06 AM
New Discovery II "owner"; engine swap-out advice
Hi, I am a new member from Austin, TX. A friend recently gave (yes gave) my 16 year-old son a (barely) running 2004 Discovery (this would be a 2 right?) originally purchased in CA. Cosmetically the car is immaculate. See attached picture.
The friend gave it to my son because after an overheating incident, it allegedly has a washed piston the result of a slipped sleeve (#4 cylinder according to the mechanic our friend took it to), and it would have cost $8K to repair at a proper shop.
Once we confirm the slipped sleeve (any ideas on an easy way to confirm that), we will probably be looking for a complete block to see if we can make it useable again (otherwise, my son will part it out and split the proceeds with the friend -- only fair, right).
As I start down this adventure with my son (I am not going naively into this -- see at end of this post for all the cars I already have), I have some questions:
1. What's the useful mileage of an 4.6 engine? in other words, if I buy a block with 100K on it it, could I get another 50K out of it? 100K? 25K?
2. Is there anything unique about a California engine compared to a 49 state engine that I won't be able to cannibalize off of the current engine? Are the wiring harnesses plug-compatible or will I need a different engine control module?
3. Is there a "how to" swap an engine guide online somewhere in the forum or elsewhere or will I need to rely on Haynes or some other reference book?
4. Any other advice, e.g., "don't do it or you'll lose your sanity", "just sell it for a tornado shelter" (funny story about that), etc. before my son and I embark on this project.
Looking forward to joining ranks of the (running) Land Rover club.
Austin Land Rover Bill
The rest of my fleet in order of age:
2007 Saab 9-3
2004 Saab 9-3 (once you learn to work on one, why not buy another and apply that knowledge)
2004 Chrysler Town & Country (only car we ever bought new)
2003 Honda Insight (amazing technology -- took it apart as soon as I got it home to understand how it works)
1996 Saab (total beater -- my son's daily driver)
1986 Porsche 944 (also given to my son by a different friend)
1973 1/2 Porsche 911T (fully restored by me -- the jewel of the collection)
1969 VW Sand Rail ('69 vintage VIN)
1940 Ford 2 Door Sedan (given to my son by yet another friend - he's got a reputation as the patron saint of failed mid-life crises car projects)
The friend gave it to my son because after an overheating incident, it allegedly has a washed piston the result of a slipped sleeve (#4 cylinder according to the mechanic our friend took it to), and it would have cost $8K to repair at a proper shop.
Once we confirm the slipped sleeve (any ideas on an easy way to confirm that), we will probably be looking for a complete block to see if we can make it useable again (otherwise, my son will part it out and split the proceeds with the friend -- only fair, right).
As I start down this adventure with my son (I am not going naively into this -- see at end of this post for all the cars I already have), I have some questions:
1. What's the useful mileage of an 4.6 engine? in other words, if I buy a block with 100K on it it, could I get another 50K out of it? 100K? 25K?
2. Is there anything unique about a California engine compared to a 49 state engine that I won't be able to cannibalize off of the current engine? Are the wiring harnesses plug-compatible or will I need a different engine control module?
3. Is there a "how to" swap an engine guide online somewhere in the forum or elsewhere or will I need to rely on Haynes or some other reference book?
4. Any other advice, e.g., "don't do it or you'll lose your sanity", "just sell it for a tornado shelter" (funny story about that), etc. before my son and I embark on this project.
Looking forward to joining ranks of the (running) Land Rover club.
Austin Land Rover Bill
The rest of my fleet in order of age:
2007 Saab 9-3
2004 Saab 9-3 (once you learn to work on one, why not buy another and apply that knowledge)
2004 Chrysler Town & Country (only car we ever bought new)
2003 Honda Insight (amazing technology -- took it apart as soon as I got it home to understand how it works)
1996 Saab (total beater -- my son's daily driver)
1986 Porsche 944 (also given to my son by a different friend)
1973 1/2 Porsche 911T (fully restored by me -- the jewel of the collection)
1969 VW Sand Rail ('69 vintage VIN)
1940 Ford 2 Door Sedan (given to my son by yet another friend - he's got a reputation as the patron saint of failed mid-life crises car projects)
#2
06-19-2014, 11:56 AM
Welcome.
If engine is the only problem, dump it and find a good used one from a boneyard, as from a rollover-wreck. But replace radiator and whatever else caused the damage.
For number 3; Haynes and Chilton manuals are not good for even toilet paper. The real thing is available at this forum, called RAVE.
And this forum hosts a bunch of knowledgeable helpful good people.
If engine is the only problem, dump it and find a good used one from a boneyard, as from a rollover-wreck. But replace radiator and whatever else caused the damage.
For number 3; Haynes and Chilton manuals are not good for even toilet paper. The real thing is available at this forum, called RAVE.
And this forum hosts a bunch of knowledgeable helpful good people.
#3
06-19-2014, 01:25 PM
Check my signature... I really did swap my engine with NO prior mechanical experience using only the RAVE and cheapo tools from Harbor Freight. It was not easy but it did not kill me and taught me quite a bit. 8K to fix your son's engine is outrageous. For that you can get a souped up, remanufactured, one installed (Cannibal in OKC).
As to your questions,
I have 130,000 on my engine now, which is essentially your engine (yours has a longer stroke). It runs fine. my friend has 150,000 on his. Same. I don't know how long they last but when mine had 100K on it, it ran perfectly. I just posted on another thread where the member had 220,000 on his and it is pretty clear that he now has a blown head gasket.
California version might have bigger catalytic converters. If they are ruined, get the smallest, cheapest ones you can (DAVICO, probably), since they will offer less restriction.
The RAVE manual tells you everything you need to know. I think there is a link in my signature.
DO IT! HAHA. If you don't, please sell it to me for what you paid and I will do it.
Seriously, I had never done more than change oil and a belt. I had no help. I got an engine crane on craigslist for 100 dollars. Started right up after the swap. I had to pull the engine just before I was done (I don't want to reveal my ignorance here... let's just say I forgot something that rhymes with fork reverter) and it took me one day, including breaks for additional cursing, to pull it out and reinstall it. The first time I did it took me two FULL days (leaving out breaks, rain, etc.).
Best of luck,
Charlie V
As to your questions,
I have 130,000 on my engine now, which is essentially your engine (yours has a longer stroke). It runs fine. my friend has 150,000 on his. Same. I don't know how long they last but when mine had 100K on it, it ran perfectly. I just posted on another thread where the member had 220,000 on his and it is pretty clear that he now has a blown head gasket.
California version might have bigger catalytic converters. If they are ruined, get the smallest, cheapest ones you can (DAVICO, probably), since they will offer less restriction.
The RAVE manual tells you everything you need to know. I think there is a link in my signature.
DO IT! HAHA. If you don't, please sell it to me for what you paid and I will do it.
Seriously, I had never done more than change oil and a belt. I had no help. I got an engine crane on craigslist for 100 dollars. Started right up after the swap. I had to pull the engine just before I was done (I don't want to reveal my ignorance here... let's just say I forgot something that rhymes with fork reverter) and it took me one day, including breaks for additional cursing, to pull it out and reinstall it. The first time I did it took me two FULL days (leaving out breaks, rain, etc.).
Best of luck,
Charlie V
#4
06-19-2014, 02:37 PM
TReK
The truck looks in good condition! When I was 15 my Dad and I completely tore apart a '76 CJ-7, and put a new body on it among a ton of other things. So I will offer you advice on that as I have not done an engine myself.
Make sure that you have fun with it and let your kid have a lot of input so he can enjoy it. If you can let him have some fun tires, stereo etc. Maybe soup up the engine a bit. Paint the engine a cool color.
My Dad did most of the difficult work while delegating a lot of the piddly stuff to me, so I did a lot of sitting around and watching him. Have your son read the manual and the rebuild manual so you both can learn and do the work.
I think what you are doing is great. your son is going to walk away with a great truck, and he is going to be able to maintain it, and have pride in it.
Make sure that you have fun with it and let your kid have a lot of input so he can enjoy it. If you can let him have some fun tires, stereo etc. Maybe soup up the engine a bit. Paint the engine a cool color.
My Dad did most of the difficult work while delegating a lot of the piddly stuff to me, so I did a lot of sitting around and watching him. Have your son read the manual and the rebuild manual so you both can learn and do the work.
I think what you are doing is great. your son is going to walk away with a great truck, and he is going to be able to maintain it, and have pride in it.
#5
06-19-2014, 02:43 PM
Rock Crawling
Junkyard motors are 100% timebombs, just like the former owners found out. This forum is filled with horror stories.
Do yourself and favor and look at GPR, CannibalV8 and Atlantic British for shortblocks or longblocks. These are refurbed and made to be much more dependable. Then you decide to do it the install or have a Independent LR shop do it.
Do yourself and favor and look at GPR, CannibalV8 and Atlantic British for shortblocks or longblocks. These are refurbed and made to be much more dependable. Then you decide to do it the install or have a Independent LR shop do it.
#6
06-19-2014, 02:59 PM
