New Discovery II owner!
#1
New Discovery II owner!
Hello everyone,
I've owned a Discovery I for 4 years and now own a 2000 Discovery II! Its all stock but its clean. 170k on her which makes her a high mileage DII but I test drove it and checked it out with my LR mechanic and nothing was wrong. It does have a shuttle valve sensor issue. Its the $65.00 deal on Atlantic British. I have read about the 3 Amigos and yes, all three lights are on. LOL They don't really bother me, just annoying! haha I have read about the DII front driveshaft failure rate. I see the high mileage service bulletin as well. Thanks for all the help. Any suggestions that I should do? Also does anyone have the DII RAVE manuals?!?!
Thanks guys!
I've owned a Discovery I for 4 years and now own a 2000 Discovery II! Its all stock but its clean. 170k on her which makes her a high mileage DII but I test drove it and checked it out with my LR mechanic and nothing was wrong. It does have a shuttle valve sensor issue. Its the $65.00 deal on Atlantic British. I have read about the 3 Amigos and yes, all three lights are on. LOL They don't really bother me, just annoying! haha I have read about the DII front driveshaft failure rate. I see the high mileage service bulletin as well. Thanks for all the help. Any suggestions that I should do? Also does anyone have the DII RAVE manuals?!?!
Thanks guys!
#4
Also - your D1 has a "slow to respond" temp gauge that eased up to mid point. The D2 has an evil ECU controlled heat gauge (idiot light with a pointer). It will stay at mid point with computer precision between "X" and "Y" temperatures. When it finally moves upward, it is already pretty warm. Might want to check out an Ultra Gauge.
#5
Also - your D1 has a "slow to respond" temp gauge that eased up to mid point. The D2 has an evil ECU controlled heat gauge (idiot light with a pointer). It will stay at mid point with computer precision between "X" and "Y" temperatures. When it finally moves upward, it is already pretty warm. Might want to check out an Ultra Gauge.
I never want to see the idiot light with a pointer on!
#6
I base my mindless rant on this from the workshop manual under instruments:
will display in the centre of the gauge.
The input signal is a PWM [pulse width modulated] signal from the engine coolant temperature sensor via the ECM.
Under normal engine operating temperatures the engine coolant temperature gauge
will display in the centre of the gauge.
The input signal is a PWM [pulse width modulated] signal from the engine coolant temperature sensor via the ECM.
When the engine is over heating the temperature gauge will display in the high temperature band
IMHO the Roverspeak from the original Klingon ECU programmer was to set the pointer to center most of the time, and the high temperature band begins at any point above mid point. Like 1 millimeter above. You don't have the gradual warming up that an old analog display from a Pinto would show, and you got used to it being on "the sweet spot", if it moved a little hotter you could judge for yourself why. On the D2, the sweet spot is larger, and the needle keeps pointing normal, even though things are getting into hot water faster than some of our politicians. I do like the UG or a scanner, and let me make up my own mind if I want to slow down, pull over, or just panic.
#7
#8
First, down load a free copy of the Rave, lin is in my signature section, and yes, most of us have it.
As for you ABS, don't try and guess what is wrong, get the system scanned for actual ABS code number which can only be done with a special scanner. If you do have a bad shuttle valve, go to Falcon works in Tuscon and order their replacement o-rings or the valves will fail again when they wet from leaking brake fluid.
If you haven't yet rebuilt or replaced your front drive shaft, what are you waiting for??
If it fails, then your high miler will be a parts vehicle only.
As for you ABS, don't try and guess what is wrong, get the system scanned for actual ABS code number which can only be done with a special scanner. If you do have a bad shuttle valve, go to Falcon works in Tuscon and order their replacement o-rings or the valves will fail again when they wet from leaking brake fluid.
If you haven't yet rebuilt or replaced your front drive shaft, what are you waiting for??
If it fails, then your high miler will be a parts vehicle only.
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