New guy here, help with purchase :bow:
#31
12-08-2018, 01:14 AM
Down to two. They are both in great shape. Both roughly the same price. @ $4k
04 Maya Gold 147K miles with ABS solenoid fix, all SRS (air bags) connections cleaned and new clock spring installed, new oxygen sensors, new wheel sensors, new rear hubs and bearings, heavy duty front drive shaft with grease-able joints and center section. All transmission, differential and transfer case fluids changed this year along with a new serpentine belt.
01 Black with gray interior. 143k miles All the guy can tell me is that it runs good and doesn’t leak much, LOL! Three Amigos present. But damn its straight and clean and love the color combo. Gonna look at it this weekend and see what’s up.
Getting closer.
Any truth to the belief that the “older” D2s are better and less sloppy than the end of the run 04s?
04 Maya Gold 147K miles with ABS solenoid fix, all SRS (air bags) connections cleaned and new clock spring installed, new oxygen sensors, new wheel sensors, new rear hubs and bearings, heavy duty front drive shaft with grease-able joints and center section. All transmission, differential and transfer case fluids changed this year along with a new serpentine belt.
01 Black with gray interior. 143k miles All the guy can tell me is that it runs good and doesn’t leak much, LOL! Three Amigos present. But damn its straight and clean and love the color combo. Gonna look at it this weekend and see what’s up.
Getting closer.
Any truth to the belief that the “older” D2s are better and less sloppy than the end of the run 04s?
The following users liked this post:
Quest4ADV (12-08-2018)
#32
12-08-2018, 06:38 AM
TReK
Down to two. They are both in great shape. Both roughly the same price. @ $4k
04 Maya Gold 147K miles with ABS solenoid fix, all SRS (air bags) connections cleaned and new clock spring installed, new oxygen sensors, new wheel sensors, new rear hubs and bearings, heavy duty front drive shaft with grease-able joints and center section. All transmission, differential and transfer case fluids changed this year along with a new serpentine belt.
01 Black with gray interior. 143k miles All the guy can tell me is that it runs good and doesn’t leak much, LOL! Three Amigos present. But damn its straight and clean and love the color combo. Gonna look at it this weekend and see what’s up.
Getting closer.
Any truth to the belief that the “older” D2s are better and less sloppy than the end of the run 04s?
04 Maya Gold 147K miles with ABS solenoid fix, all SRS (air bags) connections cleaned and new clock spring installed, new oxygen sensors, new wheel sensors, new rear hubs and bearings, heavy duty front drive shaft with grease-able joints and center section. All transmission, differential and transfer case fluids changed this year along with a new serpentine belt.
01 Black with gray interior. 143k miles All the guy can tell me is that it runs good and doesn’t leak much, LOL! Three Amigos present. But damn its straight and clean and love the color combo. Gonna look at it this weekend and see what’s up.
Getting closer.
Any truth to the belief that the “older” D2s are better and less sloppy than the end of the run 04s?
People like the 4.0’s better than the 4.6. I would knock off quite a bit of money on the ‘02 w/Three Amigos. You’ll need to do that fix yourself, and it’s time consuming.
#33
12-08-2018, 08:14 AM
How much do you think I should knock off? They are asking more than $4k, that’s just what I believe I could easily offer right off the bat. He’s got it priced high because it is in EXTREMELY good shape. The 04 is also in extremely good shape, pampered by a guy who loved it.
i also still have access to an 03 pictured in my OP for a solid $2250. It’s a 7 seater no diff lock of course, no 3 amigos, the most mileage and not near as cherry.
geez I went from famine to feast on this in a matter of a week.
Last edited by Daytoman; 12-08-2018 at 08:45 AM.
#34
12-08-2018, 08:27 AM
TReK
Just for the Shuttle Valve kit from Falconwerks with Seals I would guess around 200, plus you’ll need to remove the abs pump, rebuild it, then either get an obdII tool to bleed the brakes, or make a switch and jump the relay. This is going to eat up a weekend. That is it assuming the wheel sensors are good which they probably aren’t. Then the best fix is to purchase an eBay hub and change both out. That is another weekend and some hard work. So how much is your time worth?
Then you have to look at the drive shaft.
Then you have to look at the cooling system and running temps, and where these leaks are. That will make an enormous difference.
If the ‘04 ain’t leaking, temps out well, then that is a much better buy, and assuming you have the cash to buy all tools etc. you need for the ‘01, considering the time that all this could take, I’d start at 1500. Once it starts coming apart to fix those leaks you are opening a big ole can of worms.
Heck if you really like it, take it to a rover Mechanic, get an estimate. Holy moly, the abs fix will be $1000 just for the new pump.
Then you have to look at the drive shaft.
Then you have to look at the cooling system and running temps, and where these leaks are. That will make an enormous difference.
If the ‘04 ain’t leaking, temps out well, then that is a much better buy, and assuming you have the cash to buy all tools etc. you need for the ‘01, considering the time that all this could take, I’d start at 1500. Once it starts coming apart to fix those leaks you are opening a big ole can of worms.
Heck if you really like it, take it to a rover Mechanic, get an estimate. Holy moly, the abs fix will be $1000 just for the new pump.
Last edited by CollieRover; 12-08-2018 at 08:29 AM.
#35
12-08-2018, 09:56 AM
Just for the Shuttle Valve kit from Falconwerks with Seals I would guess around 200, plus you’ll need to remove the abs pump, rebuild it, then either get an obdII tool to bleed the brakes, or make a switch and jump the relay. This is going to eat up a weekend. That is it assuming the wheel sensors are good which they probably aren’t. Then the best fix is to purchase an eBay hub and change both out. That is another weekend and some hard work. So how much is your time worth?
Then you have to look at the drive shaft.
Then you have to look at the cooling system and running temps, and where these leaks are. That will make an enormous difference.
If the ‘04 ain’t leaking, temps out well, then that is a much better buy, and assuming you have the cash to buy all tools etc. you need for the ‘01, considering the time that all this could take, I’d start at 1500. Once it starts coming apart to fix those leaks you are opening a big ole can of worms.
Heck if you really like it, take it to a rover Mechanic, get an estimate. Holy moly, the abs fix will be $1000 just for the new pump.
#36
12-08-2018, 11:09 AM
TReK
Thanks brother. I just found the RAVE manual. I have my UG in hand so I’m gonna go up tomorrow and take a look at the 01 and do my due diligence. I love both of them. They are both in such great shape and I lean towards the 01 color combo but only a tad more than the 04 combo. But when I think of the mech issues, that 04 is looking better and better.
make sure the A/C will blow cold too!
#37
12-08-2018, 11:14 AM
Recovery Vehicle
I really do love these kinds of threads and always like to respond even if the highlights have already been covered in other responses as I was in the very same boat.
Everyone has mentioned that the highlights you need to be aware of: cooling system and front driveshaft being the most important. It sounds like you have covered the things you’ll need to address, and have the right attitude- half the battle as far as I’m concerned.
Otherwise something you need to be aware of is that you WILL have a decent bit of wrenching no matter how many things that have been “fixed”. I’ll give you some background on both of my purchase experiences. The first one I bought, I worked very hard to get inside the budget I wanted, and did a ridiculous amount of research on. It had a good number of the known issues sorted out to include head gaskets, and a few other things. As time went on it became apparent, things- albeit functional- were not really to my standards (admittedly a bit high). This made some repairs a little harder and I had to bring things back to OEM in order to really get them how I liked.
Fast forward to where I am now. I screwed up and rolled the first one (and ended up keeping it as a parts car). I decided to get into another D2 and I got one totally stock, and unmolested. This one has been a MUCH better experience. Turns out it was dealer maintained until 92k miles and I got it at just over 140k.
Getting to my point, despite getting one that was just driven (not used off road and not modified in any way) and dealer maintained, I still had A BUNCH of stuff to fix. That said, due to being much more savvy the second time around, I spent a minimum of 40 minutes inspecting the machine prior to even starting it or taking it for a drive (I was doing a fly and drive from CA to UT).
Furthering my point, every single issue that is very well known and detailed to excurtiating detail on the Internet you WILL have- even if previously fixed. Now all this stuff can be addressed and resolved for cheap and even minimal time, but in order to really enjoy the machine you need to have that in mind.
Despite crawling around under mine for a while, I still needed a front drive shaft and an airbag almost immediately after I got home. Despite the temps being good and safe (for freeway as I discovered the fan clutch was done during my inspection) I still had to flush out the Dexcool and do a radiator in addition to the clutch. Despite having no lights on, within a few weeks, I got the 3 amigos (shuttle valve). The list goes on- most of which I knew about, none of which bugged me as I knew I could fix all of it cheap and easy either with my parts car or nominal repair cost.
But to be clear, before you even get serious, you need to absolutely have a D2 specific code reader and an external temp gauge to confirm viability as has been said a bunch of times. Now if you want to roll the dice and do that afterwards, it’s not a big deal, but be aware you’ll either know it going in, or will have to deal with a bunch of stuff after you get it.
Best of luck!
Everyone has mentioned that the highlights you need to be aware of: cooling system and front driveshaft being the most important. It sounds like you have covered the things you’ll need to address, and have the right attitude- half the battle as far as I’m concerned.
Otherwise something you need to be aware of is that you WILL have a decent bit of wrenching no matter how many things that have been “fixed”. I’ll give you some background on both of my purchase experiences. The first one I bought, I worked very hard to get inside the budget I wanted, and did a ridiculous amount of research on. It had a good number of the known issues sorted out to include head gaskets, and a few other things. As time went on it became apparent, things- albeit functional- were not really to my standards (admittedly a bit high). This made some repairs a little harder and I had to bring things back to OEM in order to really get them how I liked.
Fast forward to where I am now. I screwed up and rolled the first one (and ended up keeping it as a parts car). I decided to get into another D2 and I got one totally stock, and unmolested. This one has been a MUCH better experience. Turns out it was dealer maintained until 92k miles and I got it at just over 140k.
Getting to my point, despite getting one that was just driven (not used off road and not modified in any way) and dealer maintained, I still had A BUNCH of stuff to fix. That said, due to being much more savvy the second time around, I spent a minimum of 40 minutes inspecting the machine prior to even starting it or taking it for a drive (I was doing a fly and drive from CA to UT).
Furthering my point, every single issue that is very well known and detailed to excurtiating detail on the Internet you WILL have- even if previously fixed. Now all this stuff can be addressed and resolved for cheap and even minimal time, but in order to really enjoy the machine you need to have that in mind.
Despite crawling around under mine for a while, I still needed a front drive shaft and an airbag almost immediately after I got home. Despite the temps being good and safe (for freeway as I discovered the fan clutch was done during my inspection) I still had to flush out the Dexcool and do a radiator in addition to the clutch. Despite having no lights on, within a few weeks, I got the 3 amigos (shuttle valve). The list goes on- most of which I knew about, none of which bugged me as I knew I could fix all of it cheap and easy either with my parts car or nominal repair cost.
But to be clear, before you even get serious, you need to absolutely have a D2 specific code reader and an external temp gauge to confirm viability as has been said a bunch of times. Now if you want to roll the dice and do that afterwards, it’s not a big deal, but be aware you’ll either know it going in, or will have to deal with a bunch of stuff after you get it.
Best of luck!
The following users liked this post:
Daytoman (12-08-2018)
#38
12-08-2018, 11:24 AM
The RAVE is your new best friend! Ask what kind of oil they use, coolant etc. Not that that is a deciding factor, but it will let you know how cognizant they are of maintenance. Also, check the transfer cases for leaks. Really common issue, and a pain in the neck.
make sure the A/C will blow cold too!
The guy with the 01 knows bunch about LR vehicles, they are an import dealership but he just doesn’t seem to know a bunch about the history of this particular D2. He said that the 3 amigo issue Is with the shuttle valve.
Last edited by Daytoman; 12-08-2018 at 11:36 AM.
#40
12-08-2018, 11:41 AM
I really do love these kinds of threads and always like to respond even if the highlights have already been covered in other responses as I was in the very same boat.
Everyone has mentioned that the highlights you need to be aware of: cooling system and front driveshaft being the most important. It sounds like you have covered the things you’ll need to address, and have the right attitude- half the battle as far as I’m concerned.
Otherwise something you need to be aware of is that you WILL have a decent bit of wrenching no matter how many things that have been “fixed”. I’ll give you some background on both of my purchase experiences. The first one I bought, I worked very hard to get inside the budget I wanted, and did a ridiculous amount of research on. It had a good number of the known issues sorted out to include head gaskets, and a few other things. As time went on it became apparent, things- albeit functional- were not really to my standards (admittedly a bit high). This made some repairs a little harder and I had to bring things back to OEM in order to really get them how I liked.
Fast forward to where I am now. I screwed up and rolled the first one (and ended up keeping it as a parts car). I decided to get into another D2 and I got one totally stock, and unmolested. This one has been a MUCH better experience. Turns out it was dealer maintained until 92k miles and I got it at just over 140k.
Getting to my point, despite getting one that was just driven (not used off road and not modified in any way) and dealer maintained, I still had A BUNCH of stuff to fix. That said, due to being much more savvy the second time around, I spent a minimum of 40 minutes inspecting the machine prior to even starting it or taking it for a drive (I was doing a fly and drive from CA to UT).
Furthering my point, every single issue that is very well known and detailed to excurtiating detail on the Internet you WILL have- even if previously fixed. Now all this stuff can be addressed and resolved for cheap and even minimal time, but in order to really enjoy the machine you need to have that in mind.
Despite crawling around under mine for a while, I still needed a front drive shaft and an airbag almost immediately after I got home. Despite the temps being good and safe (for freeway as I discovered the fan clutch was done during my inspection) I still had to flush out the Dexcool and do a radiator in addition to the clutch. Despite having no lights on, within a few weeks, I got the 3 amigos (shuttle valve). The list goes on- most of which I knew about, none of which bugged me as I knew I could fix all of it cheap and easy either with my parts car or nominal repair cost.
But to be clear, before you even get serious, you need to absolutely have a D2 specific code reader and an external temp gauge to confirm viability as has been said a bunch of times. Now if you want to roll the dice and do that afterwards, it’s not a big deal, but be aware you’ll either know it going in, or will have to deal with a bunch of stuff after you get it.
Best of luck!
Everyone has mentioned that the highlights you need to be aware of: cooling system and front driveshaft being the most important. It sounds like you have covered the things you’ll need to address, and have the right attitude- half the battle as far as I’m concerned.
Otherwise something you need to be aware of is that you WILL have a decent bit of wrenching no matter how many things that have been “fixed”. I’ll give you some background on both of my purchase experiences. The first one I bought, I worked very hard to get inside the budget I wanted, and did a ridiculous amount of research on. It had a good number of the known issues sorted out to include head gaskets, and a few other things. As time went on it became apparent, things- albeit functional- were not really to my standards (admittedly a bit high). This made some repairs a little harder and I had to bring things back to OEM in order to really get them how I liked.
Fast forward to where I am now. I screwed up and rolled the first one (and ended up keeping it as a parts car). I decided to get into another D2 and I got one totally stock, and unmolested. This one has been a MUCH better experience. Turns out it was dealer maintained until 92k miles and I got it at just over 140k.
Getting to my point, despite getting one that was just driven (not used off road and not modified in any way) and dealer maintained, I still had A BUNCH of stuff to fix. That said, due to being much more savvy the second time around, I spent a minimum of 40 minutes inspecting the machine prior to even starting it or taking it for a drive (I was doing a fly and drive from CA to UT).
Furthering my point, every single issue that is very well known and detailed to excurtiating detail on the Internet you WILL have- even if previously fixed. Now all this stuff can be addressed and resolved for cheap and even minimal time, but in order to really enjoy the machine you need to have that in mind.
Despite crawling around under mine for a while, I still needed a front drive shaft and an airbag almost immediately after I got home. Despite the temps being good and safe (for freeway as I discovered the fan clutch was done during my inspection) I still had to flush out the Dexcool and do a radiator in addition to the clutch. Despite having no lights on, within a few weeks, I got the 3 amigos (shuttle valve). The list goes on- most of which I knew about, none of which bugged me as I knew I could fix all of it cheap and easy either with my parts car or nominal repair cost.
But to be clear, before you even get serious, you need to absolutely have a D2 specific code reader and an external temp gauge to confirm viability as has been said a bunch of times. Now if you want to roll the dice and do that afterwards, it’s not a big deal, but be aware you’ll either know it going in, or will have to deal with a bunch of stuff after you get it.
Best of luck!
I think my search has ended and its between these two. FWIW as well, the guy with the 01 offered me everything I need to do a 7 seat conversion from a donor vehicle with the same interior color as part of th deal if I want to tackle it. Ive read the pros and cons of it so its just another thing I have to factor. ( I really want a 7 seater but not the end of the world.) LOL