Hello, I'm new to the forum and have a few questions, but would first like to say thanks to all of you who take the time to share your know-how and experiences here.

I've been lurking here for a few years and have spent 100's of hours here reading and learning about my truck. The info, tips, and recommendations have been extremely helpful. If it weren't for you guys on this forum along with the Rave manual, I'm sure I would have made plenty of mistakes and my truck would have bit the dust a long time ago. So, Thank You all!
I finally registered so I can ask a few questions.... of course!

First a little history. I have an 03 D2 SE7 (300+ north of snafu) with 141k that I purchased in 07 and had 70k on the clock then. So I guess I have been averaging about 10k a year. Overall it's been a good truck, I can't complain, well I could but probably shouldn't, it's been a real workhorse!
Now at the risk of jynxing myself, I've had no real major problems (yet)... knock on wood and all that stuff.

Anyway, my question today is concerning the new and improved fully synthetic Valvoline MAXLIFE DEX/MERC ATF. (link shows old label and formula now discontinued) I went today to pick up a few gallons for a filter change (bout time), since I've always seen it (the old formula) highly recommended here, but when I went in the parts houses, all they have is the new stuff. It's in the red bottle like the old but now sporting a new label that no longer has high mileage and 75,000 on the front but instead says full synthetic. It does have the high mileage additives like the old stuff (according to the back label) but it also has a list of even more vehicle makes and ATF types it is now supposedly compatible with and a replacement for, along with all those it was compatible with before.

So, what I'm really wondering is if anyone here has used it (the new formula) and if any of you mechanics and rover veterans still recommend it or think the new formula is safe for our ZF boxes? The # on the bottle is 773775. It is supposed to supersede the old formula and be a good replacement for DEX III among others so I went ahead and picked it up, but after getting home I started getting paranoid about the full synthetic labeling so started searching here and google and Valvoline website trying to decide if it is a good move or not changing to synthetic with my high mileage? Valvoline website list it for land rover 2005 and later so I guess they are leaving us behind with the new formula maxlife dex/merc?

My truck has 141k and trans has never given me any probs and I guess shifts like it should so I would hate to kill it with the wrong fluid while doing maintenance. My truck had just had the trans and filter serviced when I got it at 70k (can't believe it's been almost 7 yrs) and I've always kept the maintenance up on most things. But, since I've never had any problems with the trans and have always been a little paranoid about maybe causing a problem (fooling with the trans) instead of preventing one, I've never did another filter change. But I've got a little time on my hands and doing routine maintenance, going over everything and thought I'd do the trans fluid/filter as well this time. I honestly don't know what's in it now. It calls for Texamatic 9226 according to the Rave manual. But I also read somewhere that around 03 rover started using synthetic fluids? So not sure what's in it. Probably has just regular old DIII? I've kept a check on it from time to time and never been low enough to add any.

So anyway, what do you folks think? Use an old school DIII replacement such as CASTROL TRANSMAX DEX/MERC for older transmissions? or use this one-size-fits-all synthetic? Steer clear of synthetic ATF in a high mileage trans altogether? or any other recommendations? I'm pretty sure this is a new formula and not just a new label and not the same MAXLIFE DEX/MERC you guys have been recommending for our trucks. Anybody used the fully synthetic MAXLIFE DEX/MERC with the new label/formula in a ZF trans? Thanks!

 

Full synth means it is a fluid that was designed and created from the ground up to be an ATF.

Dino fluids are a chemical goo that are processed until they meet a goal, like meeting the baseline requirements to be a transmission fluid.

It's like comparing a rock and a set of nunchucks. Both are effective weapons, but one is naturally occurring and can be shaped into a weapon, while the other is purpose built for making Bruce Lee look like a badass.

I wouldn't hesitate; in fact, as I recall I settled for the Maxlife because I couldn't find full synth ATF in my area. I may drop the pan again to swap it to a D1 pan with a dipstick, and I'll be happy to swap to a full synth ATF.

 

well, I just got a great idea....."crystal nun chucks"

 

I think the "rock" deserves more credit (141K mi on the stuff without a hiccup). With all the synthetics out there, the #1 recommend oil on this site is Rotella 15/40 "goo". Synthetic has it's place (great for my VW GTI for example), I don't believe that just being synthetic makes it a better choice. That said, the synthetic stuff SHOULD run cooler in your tranny and not break down as quickly. If it is so much better, why do most truck owners choose Swepco over synthetics?

Just muddying the waters.

 

There's no question that dino oils can be effective. Semis have logged god knows how many miles using them.

But there's also no question that synthetic products are comparable if not better.

The OP's question was whether a full synth Maxlife was a bad thing.

It's not, and if anything it's an improvement.

I can understand the argument for dino engine oil, if just because it's cheapness means you can change it more often. But with trans fluid that will be in place for several years, I want the most robust fluid I can get.

 

Done

 

Yea, my first post was kinda long winded. I have no doubt on the quality of synthetics, I use RP 75/140 in my t-case and diffs and never give it a thought, I just hate to be the first on the block to try it in these transmissions. Doc if you could drop that pan and slap the D1 pan on there and fill it with the new synthetic maxlife and report back it would make me feel so much better about it. haha just kidding, I've have read many of your posts and respect your knowledge of oils and fluids. You are the oil guy over here. Over on the bimmerboards some of the users with the same ZF 4HP24 are having the same questions about this new formula. Something about the new formula having a different viscosity to accommodate more vehicles and no longer being as backward compatible in the D-II and D-III department... blah blah blah? I wish somebody would take the plunge and give it a test run. I'm just afraid giving this old trans something so perfect and clean may be like giving grandpa some absinthe and it may hurt itself!

 

Rotella is cheap OK oil, it is not good oil. I'm not sure why it's so highly recommended here, maybe because we own old trucks?

Full synthetic is fine, many people run it and are happier people because of it!

 

You make a good point. Any new product could possibly be poorly designed and fail prematurely. If that is your concern, I'd just run a high quality ATF for a year or two and then assuming there aren't well documented problems swap in the Maxlife. You could also just splurge and order a full synth ATF that has been around longer. I know there's a Mobil 1 and Amsoil ATF, and I bet Redline and RP make one also. But I bet these will cost a bit more than the Maxlife.

And my grandpa would have loved absinthe!

I think the logic is that you run cheap oil and change it often. But frankly the Rotella T has made every vehicle I've tried run rougher, so I'm done with it. Just yesterday I changed the oil and refilled it with M1 TDT 5w-40. It's so smooth it feels like I'm running butter for my engine oil.

 

I'm not totally loyal to any brand or type (oil/fluid), but I do like to pick something and stick with it for awhile. I ran M1 synthetic in my engine for 20 or 30K and no problems other than it started to spring leaks. At first I was thinking maybe the synth was a little thinner or not getting along with the Vc gaskets or something but in reality I can't blame it on the synth with a motor this old it was going to happen either way. I try to stay on top of any leaks oil and/or especially coolant. Amazingly this thing doesn't use any oil to speak of (yet), it may drip a quarter or half quart between changes or it may use it? Nothing else leaks, just my engine and it's just so small a leak I haven't had time or bothered chasing it down this time (probably valley pan gasket). I changed to Rotella 15/40 just to see if it may help clean the motor up some since it is a diesel oil and does have good cleaning properties and since I do change the engine oil regularly I don't necessarily have to run synth in there, but probably would provide better wear protection? The trans fluid on the other hand I may never change again after this, I'll have to take it 30K at a time after this fluid change and see. My original goal was to get at least 10 years out of this vehicle but more would be good. I wish it would never wear out but if/when it does I may rebuild it and go again. I wish I could find a good very low mileage wrecked or just not used much 04, for cheap and in my area, to put in the barn for spares. Anyway, My jeep straight six before this went 325k on dino 20/50 from day one ( I choose 20/50 for that vehicle at the recommendation of a friend, a major perfectionist, who owns an engine machine shop and also because it gets so hot down here). I bought it new in 92 and gave it away in 07. It finally started using oil and I gave it away and they drove it another year at least. I could have overhauled it but was really just tired of looking at it.
Anyway back to the topic, I'm still on the fence with the trans fluid type synth or dino but, Dan7 made a good point... the trans has been 141K on Dino without a hickup... so I'm thinking why change boats (fluid types) in the middle of the river? especially with the high miles? Anyway, I'm new to posting here so being the new guy I'm treading lightly and don't want to disrespect anybody or their opinion either way (I may need them later hehe). I just want to change my fluid. No hurry though what's another 1 or 2K. I like hearing every ones arguments and opinions on the subject and hoping someone will, in the meantime, give it a try (the full synthetic/ZF 4HP24 combo). Has anybody run any brand of full synthetic in the ZF-4HP24 or 22? or a better question may be.. is there any good reason for me to even change to synthetic (in the trans) this late in the game? Actually the way this unfolded is I went to get maxlife dex/merc because it was recommended here by more then a few users and then when I got to the store I noticed it was now fully synthetic so wasn't sure if the ones who were recommending it were aware of that or if their recommendations still held, so any good brand either synth or dino that has been tested with good results in our trucks with ZF 4HP24 is good with me. Valvoline Maxlife dex/merc was the recommended here but now that it's changed it's formula and untested in out trucks, there are probably other brands just as good? Any other tested brands/recommendations? Does anyone have any opinions about just going with Castrol transmax dex/merc? I think it's still dino based and probably still more DEXII/III friendly? I think I heard someone in the background say just change the stuff and move on. haha! Sorry I tend to over analyze everything, I'm guess I'm one of those dreaded measure twice cut once types you hear about. and I only have one transmission!