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I did two rounds of distilled water, one with the prestone rad flush in it too. The last round I reversed a shop vac through the reservoir and through the top hose. Alot of the extra stiff came out. I think I got a decent amount out because I refilled with almost 3 containers of Peak Global Lifetime 50 50 and a bottle of Water Wetter. I did the bleed process. Today, I will bleed again and I should get more in there, possibly might open the 4th container. So far so good. The Genuine LR low temp thermostat is the way to go. My temps are in the 180s consistently now. Very happy so far.
it's always nice when something works the way it's supposed to. not always the case when i attempt to fix something.
When your are at it, replace the plastic bleeder screw with a brass one. Manufacturer Part Number: 17 11 1 712 788 MY (BMW,Mini). Including o-ring and shipping for less than $6 on ebay.
To save time between flushes, I cooled the engine down with the help of an electric fan.
I also bought a Lucky8 Genuine Low Temp Thermostat
Reading through this thread I think I got the wrong one? its not in a Brit Part box, and its not "Grey" its almost black. Where can I get the 180 degree one? https://www.lucky8llc.com/products/low-temp-thermostat
I have a moderately new thermostat (25k old) but want a low temp.
Thank, these forums are great.
Stefan
Last edited by stefanas; Jul 1, 2019 at 02:28 PM.
Reason: forgot to add the link
1. Do not get a brass bleed screw, the plastic one is fine. The brass will only give you a false impulse to over torque and strip or crack the plastic T. The plastic T and plastic bleed screw is fine, just replace it every 75-100K miles along with all the other rubber hoses and just screw it snug. Almost think of the bleed screw as something you close shut, not something you fasten down. Once it's closed it's closed, not need to force it any further.
2. Use BMW blue coolant. It's made for aluminum engines and aluminum radiators, won't gum up passages, and is immaterially different in terms of price compared to any other color coolant. Also, the vibrant blue color is a life saver when there's a leak somewhere. When it dries it turns a very noticeable white-blue color that'll help you figure out where the leak is coming from.
1. Do not get a brass bleed screw, the plastic one is fine. The brass will only give you a false impulse to over torque and strip or crack the plastic T. The plastic T and plastic bleed screw is fine, just replace it every 75-100K miles along with all the other rubber hoses and just screw it snug. Almost think of the bleed screw as something you close shut, not something you fasten down. Once it's closed it's closed, not need to force it any further.
2. Use BMW blue coolant. It's made for aluminum engines and aluminum radiators, won't gum up passages, and is immaterially different in terms of price compared to any other color coolant. Also, the vibrant blue color is a life saver when there's a leak somewhere. When it dries it turns a very noticeable white-blue color that'll help you figure out where the leak is coming from.
having had the plastic bleed screw break on me, i will have to respectfully disagree. i'll take my chances and trust my own ability to not over-tighten the brass screw.
having had the plastic bleed screw break on me, i will have to respectfully disagree. i'll take my chances and trust my own ability to not over-tighten the brass screw.
How did it break? Over-torque or some other issue?
It's crappy old plastic and gets fragile with age. It also is very easy to hog out the top of it. The brass ones do not do that. We replace them all with brass at our shop
How did it break? Over-torque or some other issue?
one broke apart where the head meets the threaded body of the screw and the one on my other Rover was getting wallowed out at the head and losing the Philips shape.
