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Old Jan 22, 2025 | 02:55 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by H20nSnow
FWIW, I would never dive that deeply into an engine without installing the optimal cam. If she'll be a mall crawling garage queen, then leaving the stock cam might be fine; if you care about how she drives and want to realize a simple increase in performance, then install a better suited cam while the engine is apart. Now, should you open up the engine solely to install a cam? That's a different choice.
My thoughts exactly. I have never considered doing a cam, because that's a lot of work for not a ton of gain, but if I have the engine out on a stand rebuilding it then it makes much more sense. No mall crawling here, too many dents to ever be a garage queen. I didn't cut the fenders and shove 35s under it nothing!
 
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Old Jan 22, 2025 | 03:05 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by ttr55
First thought is okay, lets pull it apart and helicoil it, but i have seen some horror stories on here regarding that.
For head bolts a helicoil is not what you need to use. you need to use TIME-SERTS...they are WAY stronger...IIRC I had to do 3 or 4 on my truck (I ran ARP studs as well but I went to 80LB). The inserts them selves aren't too expensive but the entire kit to do it is ($650). I would see if someone you know has a kit you could borrow. Below is a link to their site....you can also (of course) find the kits on Amazon.

https://time-serts.com/
 

Last edited by 99TEXASD2; Jan 22, 2025 at 03:07 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2025 | 03:09 PM
  #23  
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I put what ever cam TWS recommended in my engine when I rebuilt it and honestly couldn't tell any difference. I guess they are cheap enough if you pull the stock one for some reason, why not. Otherwise it's a waste of money.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2025 | 03:14 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Grum.man
I put what ever cam TWS recommended in my engine when I rebuilt it and honestly couldn't tell any difference. I guess they are cheap enough if you pull the stock one for some reason, why not. Otherwise it's a waste of money.
I put a 4.6L cam in my 4.0L when I rebuilt it...runs fine, not sure it made any appreciable horsepower or torque gain (butt dyno didn't notice any) though and as the "cheapest" upgrade from the stock 4.0 cam, I figured...why not. (LOL)
 
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Old Jan 22, 2025 | 05:55 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 99TEXASD2
For head bolts a helicoil is not what you need to use. you need to use TIME-SERTS...they are WAY stronger...IIRC I had to do 3 or 4 on my truck (I ran ARP studs as well but I went to 80LB). The inserts them selves aren't too expensive but the entire kit to do it is ($650). I would see if someone you know has a kit you could borrow. Below is a link to their site....you can also (of course) find the kits on Amazon.

https://time-serts.com/
Well, to be honest with you, I would rather start over and rebuild a different motor on a stand than have to go thru and put inserts in half the block. I'm fairly confident I used the 100 ft-lb rating, and if that's the case, then this will definitely not be the only thread to let go. And if I had to buy that kit then it wouldn't even be that much more expensive to start over. Also as I said in the other posts, I want to be able to drive it this semester, which is why I want to just drive on it as is. And, I'm scared of not doing the inserts right have having to get a new block anyway.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2025 | 07:27 PM
  #26  
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I did a long post on studs vs head bolts here: https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...92/#post786998

If you have the wherewithal to get another block to use I would recommend doing so.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2025 | 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Extinct
I did a long post on studs vs head bolts here: https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...92/#post786998

If you have the wherewithal to get another block to use I would recommend doing so.

Wow, the poster of that thread had the exact same thing happen to him as me it seems. Similar timing, 20k post HG and also with studs. Very interesting. After this experience I am on your side and am planning on headbolts in the new engine. I have wondered about about the differences of studs/bolts in this application as I am in school for mechanical engineering, and have wanted to ask my professor his opinion (specific class I am in has lots of bolt loading problems). Are you mechanical? I would guess so based on what you said in that thread.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2025 | 07:54 PM
  #28  
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Read your signature and got my answer lol
 
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Old Jan 23, 2025 | 07:14 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by ttr55
Wow, the poster of that thread had the exact same thing happen to him as me it seems. Similar timing, 20k post HG and also with studs. Very interesting. After this experience I am on your side and am planning on headbolts in the new engine. I have wondered about about the differences of studs/bolts in this application as I am in school for mechanical engineering, and have wanted to ask my professor his opinion (specific class I am in has lots of bolt loading problems). Are you mechanical? I would guess so based on what you said in that thread.
Yes, BSME and 34 year experience in machine design and manufacturing.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2025 | 10:40 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Grum.man
I have a bare block located near Raleigh NC I'd sell for $100.00. When I rebuilt my engine I bought a block that already had top hat liners installed so my old block is just sitting here. It was fine other than the faint sleeve knock they all get around 180k miles.
Is this still up for grabs? I already got a parts truck and a good block for myself, but I have a friend in the Raleigh-Durham area that is in need of a good 4.0 block. Can I put y'all in touch?
 
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