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I sort of inherited a 2001 Land Rover Discovery 2. There are a lot of items on the list, but I could use some help with one issue in particular.
The Discovery only drives in reverse. The shifter moves to all gears. You can feel a change going from P —> R and from N—> R (and vice versa). When going to to gears D, 1, 2. The gears “feel” like they are still in N. And of course it doesn’t go forward.
The only trouble code I have is P0722. I have a check engine light. The brake light is staying on even with the parking brake released.
I have read that trouble code is related to the torque converter. I also read that instead of replacing the torque converter I should replace the transmission? Or was that ALSO replace the transmission with the torque converter?
originally I was planning on changing the transmission Filter , putting in new fluid and hoping for the best. I already ordered from Atlantic British and when I took possession today I saw that the previous owner already had the filter kit from Atlantic British and some ATF!
I would really appreciate any suggestions and advice.
To help my investigations, I am going to buy a more advanced diagnostic tool. I am taking a risk and buying something off Amazon (2023 Elite LAUNCH https://a.co/d/g8x2kG6). It says it does live data and graphing and even key programming. I bought some spare keys and will report back if it works ok or not. But all in it was only 120.
I hope it is the sensor. Or maybe the code was caused by low voltage and I can just clear it.
As you noted, low voltage is a thing with these Transmission ECU’s, and it doesn’t need to be very low. But I don’t think you said you checked the transmission fluid level. Make sure you do it per the proper procedure.
Well check voltage and fluid level but sounds like the front clutch is out on the trans. You can put it in drive, hold your foot on the brake and have someone check to make sure the driveshafts are not spinning (bad axle diff) WITHOUT GETTING UNDER THE CAR. If they are not, highly likely you have a bad front clutch in the trans.
Good news is, I was able to program the keys with that Launch tool.
Bad news is, the car was just idling for a few minutes and the temp went in the red. So, the 3 things I need to look at are
1. Transmission
2. cooling. (Planning on getting the in-line thermostat everyone keeps talking about
3. Brakes. They are very squishy and I don’t think they are even triggering the brake lights. So maybe also need to change the brake switch.
I have to take these repairs in chunks. I will share my progress as I progress.
@nineyards Before you do anything else figure out the overheating, do not even both with the inline until you do. As always start simple :
drain and check the coolant for contamination
Check the oil and oil filler cap for yellow or whitish residue - that indicates oil in the water
Run a hose into the top then bottom of the rad - put a pan underneath to see if anything solid comes out - tap water is fine it is not staying in there and at least 10 to 15 minutes each way.
Do the same with both heater hoses
Then top the system up and bleed - search threads on here for how
Check your fan clutch for function simple google search for that
Spend 25.00 on a bluetooth OBD dongle and download torque on your phone - set torque up to monitor your engine temps
Now start your truck up it and see how fast temps rise if it hits 220 shut down - check your hoses for pressure if they are rock hard liley head gasket
I finally got a day to spend on the disco. small victories
I fixed the fuel door latch with a part from Amazon. Now when I push the fuel button the door opens!
I wanted to add some gas, so I took a 2 gallon can to the gas station, got some gas, came back opened the fuel door with the push of a button, read the fuel door notice about premium gas, gave my neighbor 2 gallons of unleaded gas, went back to the gas station got some premium gas, and added the premium gas to the disco!
I changed the oil and oil filter. Old oil amounted to about 6 quarts. So I don’t think it was low on oil. Old oil was black, but did not seem contaminated with coolant. When I recycled, the Guy at autozone also did not think there was coolant in the oil. After changing the oil I ran the engine briefly and it still sounds great. Maybe smoother than before.
While I was preparing for the cooling maintenance, I saw some fluid on the ground. I also saw a lot of oily fluid on the undercarriage. I did not see anything on top or the sides of the engine. It felt more like oil than anything else. But I did see a green bead on the oil filter. I haven’t been running the engine in a couple of weeks. It spooked me, so I decided to change the oil first. I used Mobil one filter and mobile 10w30. Probably the wrong oil, but I read a few people like that oil.
I looked in the coolant reservoir and it was bone dry. I also looked in the brake fluid reservoir and it was bone dry. The truck was sitting for a while, so I am thinking maybe some hoses got hosed.
I am going to run thru the rest of @Richard Gallant advice next. Or should I spend the time looking for leaks?
Green bead on oil filter Probably coolant? Though it felt oily. Empty brake fluid reservoir, probably not a good sign? Empty coolant reservoir… A bit of fluid here, I thought that hole was weird. More oily fluid. More oily fluid.
As Richard said, you need to figure out your overheating. My first step would be to fill the coolant and bleed the air out. Then you can figure out where it is leaking. Where the brake fluid went is also a concern, but you won’t need the brakes until you can run the engine without overheating.
No forward gears
