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No Heat

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  #1  
Old 12-10-2013, 02:27 PM
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Default No Heat

I know, "No heat in a Discovery" - common problem.


Little background: 2001 Disco 2 with 180k. Head gaskets replaced 8 months ago - thanks to a bunch of you on this board. All hoses and t stat replaced at the same time. Also replaced serpentine belt and alternator. I put a new tee fitting in with a bleed screw which it did not have originally (to me). Truck is awesome otherwise. Drives strong, no noises that don't belong, and is now my daily driver. Got it back after we sent our girl to college in a 2012 Ford Fusion (she wants the Rovah back though.)


Months go by with absolutely zero problems...and then...


Small puddle of coolant leaking one day on the passenger side, no time to check because I'm on my way to work. No problem, drives fine, temp stays stuck dead center. I go out to start it at the end of the day and it makes a weird metal on metal noise. I stop the engine and pop the hood. The pulley on the alternator bracket is canted out about 15 degrees. Crap! The bracket is broken. No problem. Order up a new one put it on and away I go.


Puddle is still there so I pressure test the cooling system. Yep - you guessed it, the water pump. Bearings started to go and it wobbled and the pulley crapped out.


Replaced the water pump with the good one (and new serpentine belt just in case - the older new one is now the spare.) Pressure test the system, holds 20.5lbs forever. I'm positive I have no leaks. Nothing under the truck, no coolant loss.


No problems for several more weeks...and then...


It got cold, and I got no heat. I hear gurgling behind the dashboard.


Gents, I know this is an air bubble situation. I have tried everything to get the air bubble out. I have bled the system per instructions in the RAVE (coolant bottle lifted up approx. 8 inches) - both with the truck on a flat surface and with the front end on jack stands. Always stone cold, always. I have also put a funnel in the recovery tank and overfilled and squeezed the hose until no more burping. I then drew out the excess with a turkey baster. Best results so far with this method.


So, I "know" this is an air bubble. Any other thoughts or tricks on this issue? I get decent heat at all speeds, but like typical air bubble scenarios I get better heat at higher RPMs (>2,000).


It's 3 degrees outside. I'm an old Infantry guy (0311, 11B, and 11A) but I like my ride to the office to be a little warmer than that.


Thanks!
Erik
 
  #2  
Old 12-11-2013, 06:25 AM
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I had a problem with one that would not bleed, i cant recommend it but what i did was remove the hose leaving the heater core, started the truck until coolant started coming out for the return line. then quickly put the hose and clamp on and bleed a usual the problem when away.
 

Last edited by drowssap; 12-11-2013 at 10:08 AM.
  #3  
Old 12-11-2013, 09:57 AM
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This thread discusses your issue:

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...er-core-55005/

So if it were me, the issue is the air is getting out. And you have been driving it for awhile. I would try bleeding it one more time, and do it cold. Once you are done bleeding it start it up and run it till it is warm and try the heat. If it is still a issue, open the cap on the res. bottle, and let it run for awhile.

But Hell like Dusty I'm a idiot.
 
  #4  
Old 12-11-2013, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by xxdoylexx
This thread discusses your issue:

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...er-core-55005/

So if it were me, the issue is the air is getting out. And you have been driving it for awhile. I would try bleeding it one more time, and do it cold. Once you are done bleeding it start it up and run it till it is warm and try the heat. If it is still a issue, open the cap on the res. bottle, and let it run for awhile.

But Hell like Dusty I'm a idiot.
Did you just call Dusty an Idiot? That wasn't very Christmas like...
 
  #5  
Old 12-11-2013, 11:20 AM
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Glad somebody found my old thread useful. I just replaced all of the hoses on my truck and went through the same process again. Filled system, bled it at the screw with the reservoir elevated, then got a call from my wife about gurgling under the dash. Took it on the highway and drove in third gear for a while and the noise was gone. Bled it one last time and that was it.


I would recommend trying a backflush of your heater core as well just in case.
 
  #6  
Old 12-11-2013, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by SuperSport
Did you just call Dusty an Idiot? That wasn't very Christmas like...

lol, no Dusty's tag line is " I am mostly an idiot"
 
  #7  
Old 12-11-2013, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by xxdoylexx
lol, no Dusty's tag line is " I am mostly an idiot"
funny, I was just reading along thinking "hell, if I had that problem, I'd pull the core return line lose, open the expansion tank and get the shop vac to work, pulling air coolant and all. I'd even close the lid enough, that the lighter than fluid air, is forced out first. I'd even have saved the coolant, because I have a very clean little shop vac, that I use for just such things"
but as pointed out, and I have to agree I am mostly......just keeps me in check.
 

Last edited by dusty1; 12-11-2013 at 08:43 PM.
  #8  
Old 12-12-2013, 07:55 AM
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Dusty, great idea with that shop vac. I will tell you mine isn't that clean
 
  #9  
Old 12-12-2013, 08:10 AM
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I hear you there. most of my shop vacs look like a petri dish, growing dog hair on a green surface. I bought a 2hp from lowes when I was flushing my system. it was like $25. that is all I use it for. it has tapered hose that fits perfectly in or over the cooling lines
 
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