Hey, guys.... have a new rig, my 3rd Disco, a 2000 Discovery II w/136K miles. Bought it knowing the rear door locks and windows were dead. Been doing some research but have not been able to source the issue. All electronics other than the rear doors locks and windows work. Nothing in the back responds to the remote, the front controls or the rear controls. Fronts work as they should. Locks can be manually locked and unlocked. No noise from the actuators.... just dead. Rear tailgate lock also does not work. I've checked all the fuses. Before I take her into my mechanic I figured I'd see if someone has any suggestions. Thanks!

 

That's an odd one.

I just breezed thru the wiring diagrams and don't see much in common bt the rear power windows and rear door locks. Maybe have a look on the attached.

Was the truck ever leaky up front (sunroof, etc?).

The **only*** thing I might think is that your passenger compartment fusebox under the drivers side dropdown panel under the steering wheel might be dodgy. It's a known issue on these trucks, but in this case, I've not heard of the rear windows ever being affected, just locks. Anyway, when that fusebox gets wet or corrodes, all sorts of weird things start happening and the "IDM" in that fusebox controls both. (IDM = Intelligent Driver Module, it's not replaceable, it's built into the fusebox. For example, on my 00 Disco, I was having odd issues, locks not working intermittently, HDC light on permanently... and upon examination, my fusebox had a ton of corrosion from leaky sunroof tubes. Once I replaced the fusebox, everything worked perfectly.

 

Thanks, nashvegas.... I don’t have the history of the truck but it’s a non-sunroof model so I don’t think moisture is/was the issue. I can tell the wiring harnesses under the glovebox have been molested and I know the dash has been out to diagnose a heater core issue. Could it be as simple as a connection being left on done?

 

It certainly could be a connector.

I made a PDF here of the relevant wiring diagrams- forgot to attach, give a look?

Then you can reference the Electrical Library to see where the numbered connectors are. Download here --> https://discoii.files.wordpress.com/...al-library.pdf. At the end of the doc there are hundreds of pages, one for each connector.

 

Yeah, just did a brief look-see and really don't see any connection between the two issues. Besides wires for each of these circuits run through same harness in door frame.

Door locks are a super common issue. But, check #1, #20 and #21 fuses in driver's compartment fuse box to start with.

I'd try swapping out a window switch, front to rear, on console...see if that makes a difference. Check fuse #13 in DCF box.

If all fuses are good. Probably going to need to pull console switches or door panel and do some investigating with a test light.

 

Don't assume that the two problems are necessarily related. The door actuators commonly have problems.
My rear windows didn't work, along with the sunroofs. Turned out to be a relay that controlled both. Since you don't have sunroofs you can't check that, but you might want to go through both fuseboxes and check any parts -- fusible links, fuses, and relays -- that have a window icon next to them.

 

Yes, one of the best places to start...drivers compartment fuse box. If you have power at designated fuses, you continue searching inside vehicle for issue. If you don't have power at designated fuses, you go to engine compartment fuse box and check fuseable links and maga fuses. If you have good fuses/fuseable links in engine compartment fuse box...then you'd look at the wiring harness/terminals between engine and drivers compartment fuse boxes.

 

Hey.... wanted to close the loop on this. Got distracted by a lift and new front bumper! Ok.... Mollusc’s assumption was correct, the two issues were unrelated. The rear window failure was due to no power from the passenger/interior fuse box. Replaced with a used model and that fixed the issue. As a bonus it also fixed the issue of my E brake light which was always on and I knew was not an issue with the switch or reservoir sensor. Have no idea why this was causing an issue but I’m happy it sorted itself out. For the rear locks all three actuators are bad. The truck is new to me so I didn’t have the pleasure of watching them fail one by one. I landed on replacing with new models with the hopes I won’t have to mess with it again but it ain’t cheap. Lowest price I found on the rear doors was $140 from lucky 8 and two bills for the tailgate from AB. I am going to do the tailgate this weekend and wait on the rear doors. I can’t get by with the tailgate not working but think I can with the rear doors. Thanks again for the help.