No start after front cover/oil pan
Recently my front cover gasket started leaking, then my camshaft position sensor had an "electrical circuit malfunction" code.
I replaced the front cover gasket, oil pan gasket, ordered a new camshaft position sensor and managed to break my alternator bolt. I bought a new alternator at advanced auto, and installed it. Well after being out of town for a few weeks, and leaving my truck in the garage (isn't heated) it was very cold. I left the battery disconnected.
Now that everything is back together my truck won't start. It seems to have just about electrical fault possible. When I turn my key to position II I see all my warning lights come on, and then disappear. Only to have my check engine light, 3 amigos, battery light, oil light, and have the lovely blinking "M & S" lights all on. Then this weird buzzing sound starts from under the steering wheel. I checked all of my fuses in both fuse panels (bonnet and drivers side) and they were all good. The battery read 13.2 V and the terminals are clean.
I went to take my key out, and it would not turn back to position 0 to let the key come out. (I've never had any trouble with my key ignition before). Looking down at the transmission selector I see the red indicator light that indicates what gear is selected blinking. I get out of the truck and shut the door. My cabin lights stay on constant and this weird sound start from under the drivers seat. It sounded like my stock stereo amp was a waterfall....
Tomorrow I am going to go get another battery to see if its fails under load even though it read ok.
Does anyone have any suggestions?? Could the engine ECU have suddenly failed because it was not connected to the battery for 2-3 weeks?
I really appreciate your suggestions.
I replaced the front cover gasket, oil pan gasket, ordered a new camshaft position sensor and managed to break my alternator bolt. I bought a new alternator at advanced auto, and installed it. Well after being out of town for a few weeks, and leaving my truck in the garage (isn't heated) it was very cold. I left the battery disconnected.
Now that everything is back together my truck won't start. It seems to have just about electrical fault possible. When I turn my key to position II I see all my warning lights come on, and then disappear. Only to have my check engine light, 3 amigos, battery light, oil light, and have the lovely blinking "M & S" lights all on. Then this weird buzzing sound starts from under the steering wheel. I checked all of my fuses in both fuse panels (bonnet and drivers side) and they were all good. The battery read 13.2 V and the terminals are clean.
I went to take my key out, and it would not turn back to position 0 to let the key come out. (I've never had any trouble with my key ignition before). Looking down at the transmission selector I see the red indicator light that indicates what gear is selected blinking. I get out of the truck and shut the door. My cabin lights stay on constant and this weird sound start from under the drivers seat. It sounded like my stock stereo amp was a waterfall....
Tomorrow I am going to go get another battery to see if its fails under load even though it read ok.
Does anyone have any suggestions?? Could the engine ECU have suddenly failed because it was not connected to the battery for 2-3 weeks?
I really appreciate your suggestions.
More likely the truck is in immobilze mode, triggered by re-connecting the battery. It woke up to where it thought it should be when power was removed. Try lock/unlock 5 times with the key fob. There is a post in the tech area about this. https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...d-works-45005/
As for the lights, on power up they do the three second bulb test, then go out. Oil would be on as no engine running. Battery light on because serpantine belt is not turning the alternator and charging the battery. M&S can be on if battery volts below 9V as detected by tranny computer. Three Amigos are on in a lot of Rovers.
If you can charge your battery it may help. You are correct that the voltage test of the battery should be made under moderate load, like head lights on, etc.
As for the lights, on power up they do the three second bulb test, then go out. Oil would be on as no engine running. Battery light on because serpantine belt is not turning the alternator and charging the battery. M&S can be on if battery volts below 9V as detected by tranny computer. Three Amigos are on in a lot of Rovers.
If you can charge your battery it may help. You are correct that the voltage test of the battery should be made under moderate load, like head lights on, etc.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; Jan 12, 2014 at 07:10 AM.
1) does it crank at all or just do nothing?
2) check the inertia switch to make sure it's not triggered for some reason
If you can get the key out put the key in the door and lock and unlock it a few times. That should disable the security system if it's the problem. you might be able to lift up the cover on the shifter and manually get the thing to go in park. Here is a breakdown of the shifter. D2_Workshop_Manual 602.pdf
2) check the inertia switch to make sure it's not triggered for some reason
If you can get the key out put the key in the door and lock and unlock it a few times. That should disable the security system if it's the problem. you might be able to lift up the cover on the shifter and manually get the thing to go in park. Here is a breakdown of the shifter. D2_Workshop_Manual 602.pdf
Last edited by Jared9220; Jan 12, 2014 at 10:43 AM.
Earlier it would not crank at all. I took the battery to NAPA to have it tested and it tested BAD. I bought a NAPA battery 1000CA 850 CCA installed it and I now have crank. It doesn't turn over though. I finally was able to get the key out when I installed the new battery. I no longer have my "M & S" lights blinking, or the 3 amigos.
Oh and I forgot to mention that I also replaced the timing chain because it was loose.
I'm looking at the RAVE and it doesn't say how to reset the inertia. Just remove and then it says: To set the fuel cut-off switch, depress the top of the fuel cut-off switch.
Does that mean press down on the top?
Here is a video of what I'm experiencing:
Oh and I forgot to mention that I also replaced the timing chain because it was loose.
I'm looking at the RAVE and it doesn't say how to reset the inertia. Just remove and then it says: To set the fuel cut-off switch, depress the top of the fuel cut-off switch.
Does that mean press down on the top?
Here is a video of what I'm experiencing:
You need to hook everything back up before trying to start it. Yes it can fire up off but why try? Do you have the alternator on? I can't see if you do or not, but there is a ground wire that bolts to the Alternator bracket, is it connected?
I also see you pressing on the gas like crazy. That will not help you with fuel injection. Did you mess with the timing chain at all?
Yes, just press the top of the switch. If it's tripped then you will be able to press it down. If you cant press it then it's good
Did you try unlocking and locking the truck at the door with the key?
Have you checked to see if you have spark?
If you have spark then check fuel pressure.
I also see you pressing on the gas like crazy. That will not help you with fuel injection. Did you mess with the timing chain at all?
Yes, just press the top of the switch. If it's tripped then you will be able to press it down. If you cant press it then it's good
Did you try unlocking and locking the truck at the door with the key?
Have you checked to see if you have spark?
If you have spark then check fuel pressure.
Last edited by Jared9220; Jan 12, 2014 at 11:39 AM.
When you turn your key in the on position do any of the gauges move? It could be something as simple as a fuse (I did it, took me a few days to realize) if the tach gauge doesn't move from the resting place to zero you have an electrical problem.
You need to hook everything back up before trying to start it. I don't see your A/C, Engine belt or intake hooked up (so your MAF probably isn't hooked up. Do you have the alternator on? I can't see if you do or not, but there is a ground wire that bolts to the Alternator bracket, is it connected?
I also see you pressing on the gas like crazy. That will not help you with fuel injection. Did you mess with the timing chain at all?
Yes, just press the top of the switch. If it's tripped then you will be able to press it down. If you cant press it then it's good
Did you try unlocking and locking the truck at the door with the key?
I also see you pressing on the gas like crazy. That will not help you with fuel injection. Did you mess with the timing chain at all?
Yes, just press the top of the switch. If it's tripped then you will be able to press it down. If you cant press it then it's good
Did you try unlocking and locking the truck at the door with the key?
I did mess with the timing chain because I put a new one on. I made sure the sprockets fit into the grove on the cam and crank.
I will go press the top of the switch and test that, I will also go unlock the truck with the door key a few times.
Thanks!!
The temp and fuel gauge do move. The tach and speed gauge don't.
Thats the deal, right there. I did not set it up to TDC.
I'm taking everything apart this weekend and were going to set it at TDC. Do I need to do anything other than set these marks up?? I was looking in the rave and this is what I found:
Clean timing chain and gears and gear
locations.
2. Fit key to crankshaft.
3. Temporarily fit gears to camshaft and crankshaft. If necessary, rotate shafts to align timing marks. When aligned correctly, the timing marks will face each other; crankshaft gear timing mark at twelve o'clock position and camshaft gear timing mark at six o'clock position.
4. Remove gears from shafts and fit to timing chain.
5. With timing marks aligned, fit timing chain and gears as an assembly.
6. Restrain the camshaft gear and tighten retaining bolt to 50 Nm (37 lbf.ft).
I'm taking everything apart this weekend and were going to set it at TDC. Do I need to do anything other than set these marks up?? I was looking in the rave and this is what I found:
Clean timing chain and gears and gear
locations.
2. Fit key to crankshaft.
3. Temporarily fit gears to camshaft and crankshaft. If necessary, rotate shafts to align timing marks. When aligned correctly, the timing marks will face each other; crankshaft gear timing mark at twelve o'clock position and camshaft gear timing mark at six o'clock position.
4. Remove gears from shafts and fit to timing chain.
5. With timing marks aligned, fit timing chain and gears as an assembly.
6. Restrain the camshaft gear and tighten retaining bolt to 50 Nm (37 lbf.ft).


