Now I see why these power steering pumps fail
I just had my second PAS pump spring a leak on me, my first went at 100k and a second used pump lasted about 15k. I took them both apart and the gasket between the halves is a joke, just a thin piece cellophane with some green jizz on one side. I RTV'd them both back together and hopefully one will work. I'm a pro at removing pumps now, got this last one off in about 20 minutes. My wife walked in the garage while I was blowing in the old pumps testing them for leaks, gave me a funny looked and just walked out.
I need to pull mine as i know have the opportunity to do as my engine is out. My high pressure line is rusted and the frame has rust starting. I think its the hoses that are leaking but i am going to rebuild the pump and box and replace all lines. i may pick your brain on this one....
yea my wife gave me the same look as i was bent over the engine bay lifing out my engine block with my two kids and no hoist....Looked a little perverted i think.....
yea my wife gave me the same look as i was bent over the engine bay lifing out my engine block with my two kids and no hoist....Looked a little perverted i think.....
Last edited by vandev; Sep 6, 2010 at 09:21 PM.
If you remove the pump and blow in the bottom (low pressure return) while plugging the high pressure hole you can hear the leaks in the pump gasket. Be warned that PAS fluid tastes bad and is probably a bit harmful if ingested. I know hose do leak but my gut feeling would be the pump is leaking.
Have a friend here in Colorado that has made a complete bolt on Chevy p/s pump conversion for thos who are tired of messing with the Rover pump. Complete parts cost is about the same as buying a new Rover pump and generates a lot more pressure.
How much $$? Buying another rover pump makes no sense to me, hope my RTV gasket holds though.
Oh well, next time, hopefully not, but maybe.
I can write it up but its not rocket science
1) Remove the pump, follow rave procedure
2) take the 4 bolts out of the pump
3) remove the paper gasket and green jizz, clean up the surfaces with a razor blade,
4) degrease mating surface with some brake cleaner
5) put on grey stiff RTV liberally, and put the halves together
6) hand tighten the 4 bolts until the RTV just oozes out
7) let cure 24 hours
8) Tighten up the 4 bolts
9) Replace the pump following the rave procedure
10) Bleed the PAS fluid following my other how to
1) Remove the pump, follow rave procedure
2) take the 4 bolts out of the pump
3) remove the paper gasket and green jizz, clean up the surfaces with a razor blade,
4) degrease mating surface with some brake cleaner
5) put on grey stiff RTV liberally, and put the halves together
6) hand tighten the 4 bolts until the RTV just oozes out
7) let cure 24 hours
8) Tighten up the 4 bolts
9) Replace the pump following the rave procedure
10) Bleed the PAS fluid following my other how to
My PAS just blew out yesterday. I was weighing my options.
1-Buy a used one and rebuild using your technique while having my old one on hand as a (rebuilt) back up.
2-Go for a New Warranted one $650 !!
3-contact Disco Mike's friend with the Chevy retro-fit model
Any thoughts?
1-Buy a used one and rebuild using your technique while having my old one on hand as a (rebuilt) back up.
2-Go for a New Warranted one $650 !!
3-contact Disco Mike's friend with the Chevy retro-fit model
Any thoughts?
I would not pay $650 that's for sure. AB, bputah.com, Will Tillery etc. all have new OEM pumps for $400 or less. You can also get a warranted rebuilt one for around $200 from your local parts store. If it is leaking from the gasket just RTV it. My pump is still going fine with no leaks.


