Ok now that I finally completed my driveshaft rebuild. I wouldn't even wish this job on a death row inmate. It's a long pita job, and I mean really, they couldn't shave 1/16 of an inch off certain areas to allow easier removal of the ujoints?!

I have a few smaller issues I need to get rid of now. Firstly is an odd starting issue. If I let the truck sit for two or more days it doesnt start right away. What I mean is it barely even makes a click. About 30 seconds after the first start and a few attempts it starts right up like nothing was ever wrong.

Another issue I have is an annoying drive train noise between 35 and 50 mph. It only makes the noise under load (ie on the gas), never when coasting. It seems to be speed dependent. I thought the drive shaft replacement might fix the noise but it is still there.

Lastly and I think less important is my amber ace light. I seem to get random whining noises so I assume that is the ACE system. I flushed the system, though I didn't drive much between flushes mostly just let it run and cycle for a few minutes before drain and refill.

Edit: I also forgot to mention that when turning my steering wheel shakes a bit when turning and only when turning.

 

On the starting issue, do you mean it doesn't even turn over?

On the drivetrain and steering, I'd check the CVs and front diff.

ACE light could be anything from a bad pressure transducer to a bad pump, I'd get the code read before throwing parts. The ACE light must be on for codes to be read as it doesn't store them. The upside is that after you replace the faulty part the code / light will self clear.

 

Go to your local parts store and have them do a free test on your charging system, voltage should be between 13.6 and 14.4 volts, also make sure your cables and grounds are clean and tight.
Did you replace the centering ball when rebuilding the drive shaft, what year is your truck, if it has a CDL then engage it, remove the front drive shaft and see if the noise goes away.
When you said you bled your ACE, how did you do it and how much fluid did you use?

 

If charge tested it before and they said its running fine. Like I said after like 30s it starts up perfectly fine, doesn't sound sluggish.

I did replace the centering ball, twice. The first time I rushed and didn't grease the cup or backside so had to order a new ball and replace doing it correctly.

With the shaft off there is no noise at all while driving.


When I did the ace flush I used almost a gallon of ps fluid and added half a bottle of Lucas. I didn't drive it between flush cycles. I just filled, let run like 5 mins, then drained. Did that as many times as it took to use that amount of fluid (4 or 5).

 

Have you wire brushed the terminals and clamps on your battery?

Just because the noise goes away with the propshaft disconnected doesn't mean it's the propshaft. Check the front diff and CVs.

There is no problem that causes ACE lamp illumination that is going to be fixed by a flush. Without driving it for a while between drain and refills none of the old fluid trapped in the actuators is being removed. Any issue that appears to be solved by adding fluid of the improper specs or adding viscosity modifying additives isn't fixed it's simply masked.

 

Tee, do you have any actual experience with an ACE unit.
I have help people for years and the bulk of them, especially the ones with Amber warning lights have had only one issue, burned fluid from neglect. Yes, if a Red warning light is on, you have an actual fault occuring and as the manual states, if this occurs, turn off the truck as soon as possible and have it repaired.
As for fluids, yes, Rover has always tried to sell their $30 a quart fluid, but over they years, I have found a good synthetic is almost as good, especially when some Lucas is used to keep all the valving free, and I do change mine every 15,000 miles along with the steering and after 13 years, I still have one of the quietest ACE pumps running.

 

Mike,

We are simply never going to agree on this. I'm going to clarify my position and it is not my intent to start an argument.

I have extensive knowledge and experience with the ACE system. The only thing that is going to cause flashing red and a tone is total pressure loss or an electrical issue. An amber light could be any one of 3 weak coils, any one of three sticking or worn cartridge valves, erroneous readings from the transducer, pump issues, minor pressure issues, signal issues, etc. or any combination there of. To get an amber light something has to be seriously out of tolerance and a simple fluid change isn't going to fix it.

Changing fluid type or viscosity to compensate for an issue is just that, compensation and not addressing the underlying problem, something that can't be identified without knowing the code as a starting point.

Believe me, I'd rather sell a bottle of Prestone and some Lucas. I'd sure make a lot more money on it but I can't do it because I don't believe it's right. At the end of the day it's your car and you can do whatever you want but I can't advise someone to use a fluid that is neither factory nor conforms to factory specs.

They changed the ACE in '03 to coils on a higher PWM frequency, valves with faster response times and a different leak down rate. Does anyone notice a difference between 99-02 ACE and 03-04 ACE, no, but 03-04 is quicker to respond. Changing the characteristics of the working force of the system (the fluid) changes the whole dynamic. Just because you can't feel it doesn't mean there's not a difference.

Perhaps if people understood the incredible volume of differing hydraulic fluid specs on viscosity and temperature range alone plus the fact that we are talking about a system that responds in the order of the 20 millisecond range there would be a little more concern. Hydraulic cartridge valves are designed for a very specific application with very specific fluid requirements.

When were talking about a rotary piston pump thats the better part of $1K and a valve block the better part of $2K I don't think I'm wrong in my belief that one should find the underlying problem and address it before things get really expensive. Personally, I'm also just not going to run anything through a $1K pump other than what the engineers, manufacturer and Land Rover say it needs.

As an aside, if I told someone complaining about gas mileage to switch to some 10W-20 Prius oil for an extra MPG I don't think it would go over too well.

Now the steering system is a whole other ball game. There's nothing special or precise about an Adwest steering box or the pump. The same items with the same part numbers from their respective manufacturers are used on other vehicles and as such the manufacturer of both these items spec a wide range of fluids, from regular PS to ATF. The ace pump is made by one company for only one application, the DiscoII. The valve block and actuators are made by one company for one application, the DiscoII.

So those are my reasons for recommending the use of factory fluid and actually finding out what the problem is. They are simply that and nothing more, we're all free to make our own decisions and I respect anyones right to do whatever they want with their vehicle.

 

Ok well now that that is over with any ideas on the other issues, more notably the drive train noise. Sucks going down back roads and hearing a loud whine.

 

See above as mentioned twice.