I'll have to get a temp gun, but here's the ride with no thermostat. Ambient temp ranged from 80-85, AC on

 

Temps do look a bit high. Looks like your speed is up and down a lot. See if you can get a long steady state 70mph highway run. Also remember 100 degrees over ambient is all the Disco radiator can achieve with the AC on.

 

It looks like this cooling system needs more fan than I expected, and I didn't fully understand what the AC option on the DCC controller did. An email exchange with the manufacturer cleared it up and I connected it to enable the radiator fans to come on at a higher speed when the factory AC/Aux fan is engaged. The results were as Richard was getting at, needing a more aggressive fan profile. Graph is the same local route as previous graphs.


Here's the results of a 14mi interstate run and then the cool down back to home, the OBD system in these vehicles is something else.. Most of the interstate section was fairly constant 68-72 (my cruise doesn't work) except for a bit of traffic through a construction zone. Ambient temps read 90-95F


I'm not sure how accurate this temp gun actually is, and how much insulating the tape(the metal was giving all kinds of reflective readings) is doing, but it's showing a 20F drop across the radiator.




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I think you either have an issue with your temp sensor or your radiator. I have couple 00's, 230k and 260k on the motors, one has stock tires and one has 265/18's. One has a winch bumper, both have safari grilles. One has efans and one has factory fan. Both run right at 100 degrees over ambient at 70 mph, maybe a little less if it is only around 90. I have a single setpoint controller on the efan truck and I usually keep it set so that they do not come on until 190 degrees. They typically do not run on the highway. The efan truck has the big tires and the winch.

Use the IR gun on the metal tube on the lower intake, either the heater core or the radiator tube, or both. They are black, low reflectivity, and located relatively close to the sensor. Also shoot the intake manifold at the sensor. Shoot the oil pan also.

 

Couple thoughts/questions about your issues Sandman...

Is all the shrouding that normally goes around the sides and and on top of the radiator just removed so you can tinker, or do you not use anything to help funnel the air into the radiator? I was always told it was pretty important, otherwise air will just go around the radiator, not thru it. Air following the path of least resistance kinda thing...

Is that 20degree drop across the radiator with, or without the fans running?

 

It looks to me, like both those hwy driving graphs are suggesting that air is going around the radiator, not thru it when at speed. Or, your radiator is restricted/dirty.

It also kinda looks like your fans are slow to come on, and early to shut off. I found that to usually be a temp sensor location and/or calibration issue in my experimentation.

If you don't have shrouding that funnels the air into your radiator, I would suggest maybe experimenting with some cardboard to seal off the gaps. Especially the sides and top, I'd be willing to bet it'd make a noticable difference.

 

All the pieces infront of the condenser are in place. The ones beside and above the radiator I have not cut to fit back in place with the aftermarket radiator. I didn't want to cut up the top one if the E-fan didn't work out. The radiator/condenser/oil coolers are clean. ​​​

20F drop across the radiator was at idle with the fans running and coolant temp 185

​​​​​​I think I'll try to find some rubber(inner tube?) to mock up some shrouds

 

A lil research showed me that a 20-25 degree drop across an automotive radiator while under load, (fan on or at hwy speeds) is pretty standard and acceptable. So I'd have to assume your radiator is fine. I read your graphs to say your fans are doing their job, but are not being told to come on/off at your desired temps. I also think the graphs are saying that your hwy temps are continuing to climb while driving, otherwise thought of as heat soaking, which leads me to believe the air is not being forced thru the radiator, but around it.
Hope these thoughts help, they are just things I have seen cause problems with projects in the past, so take them for what it's worth....if any of it works, my consulting fees are totally reasonable, lol

 

All I have available are internet hi-fives and I used all the retired street signs and pool noodles on her majesty.

 

Got my 1/4 npt adapters today. I guess this changed since then, mine is 3/8 npt... Ugh Now to find a 3/8 to 1/8 adapters