Thank you - it doesn’t interfere with the fan or shroud? Also, is it better to have a sensor in the thermostat itself, use the main one (on the intake between the alternator and AC compressor) or in the middle of the upper radiator hose? I’m wondering if it would give different and possibly more or less accurate or useful readings.

 

I have changed my shroud and radiator but here's a picture of how far it sticks out. You could maybe turn that front half over without much difference in angle.

The best place for it would be as close to the original sensor as possible in the thermostat housing I'm seeing a difference of 7-10F lower compared to the OBD reading with the factory Rover sensor.

 

Thanks - I’m unsure if the GlowShift sensor will interfere with the standard shroud, radiator and fan if I install it pointing downward.

So the location of the stock sensor is ideal, but the sensor itself isn’t trustworthy? I’ve used my scanner to monitor temp, but I’d prefer a gauge and liked the GlowShift combination gauge. I’m just wondering why people would install a separate sensor in the thermostat or radiator hose if the stock sensor is good enough?

 

I replaced mine due to age and I had easy access to it installing other parts, I had no reason to suspect it was inaccurate. The replacements I bought were reading wrong.

 

Replacement part received. Great service, thanks for sorting

 

Great, feel free to let me know on here or offline directly if you have any issues. I know all the forum members like hearing success stories and seeing pics from other parts of the world.

 

My stat didn’t come with a bleed hole punched, so first attempt had my heart racing as idle temps hit 104C before I shut the engine off.

Checked stat in hot water on a stove and opened fine, then realised duh, need to drill a bleed hole.

Reinstalled, and my god what a difference.

Replaced all hoses, new water pump , new tank and new Nissens rad as part of the installation. Slotted jubilee clips for all connections.

Flushed out the old pink OAT mix with 15l distilled water, drained, then ran 15l of Evans flush through it to pull out all the remaining water. Drained again and filled with Evans waterless coolant. Fantastic results.

82-84C idling, once you rev it there’s an instant 6-10C drop down to 76C as coolant starts flowing. Driving 65mph it just sits at 84C perfectly.

So far haven’t had any issues with bleeding, but I’ll monitor it for trapped air. Running cap a quarter turn from tight.

 

@neuropathy I just put my thermostat back in and it indeed fits with the glowshift sensor and adapter.

 

Thank you, yours is the standard housing with the port facing down toward the fan shroud? Did you mean that it fits in the port with the adapter or that the GlowShift sensor fits with the fan shroud right up to it? Have you compared the reading with the sensor in the thermostat housing compared to the regular sensor between the alternator and AC compressor using an OBD gauge?

I'd already sealed the port using black silicone. Does anyone know how I can safely remove that from the housing to install the adapter and sensor? I'm hoping to do this without getting bits of silicone in the system - not sure if it'll just peel out easily or if I'll have to heat it up.

 

I have this mod installed with a 180 core, but my 2003 truck just started throwing the P1026 code for low coolant temperature now that the ambients have come down a bit. I want to drop a 190 in there so I can pass inspection, but I also thought there was a thermostat setting in the ECU somewhere. I tried playing with the Nanocom emulator to see if I could find such a thing, but no luck. Am I misremembering things?