@Extinct Followed by I have destroyed my engine comments sometimes I wonder about people.

 

I think I am starting to see “it” now. Honestly, in the beginning I have jumped to conclusions about what could or has happened to my engine but, really I have realized it’s really about limiting the frequency of being above acceptable temp range and limiting the time in the danger zone. 235F once? Caught early enough? Maybe warpage? Slipped sleeve no. Slipped sleeve engines I'm assuming run like crap, spit smoke, puke coolant, and don't happen suddenly…nor do cracks spontaneous occur. Gotta stay outta the danger zone. Gotta be vigilant.

A person on reddit recently replied indicating they found the inline mod useless because when they tow an 1800 lb sailboat in 80F with a remanned top hat ab engine their temps stay at 194F. I said bully for you, thats great, you must take great care of your engine and be fortunate to not have issues like the rest of us. They purchased their vehicle with an engine dead on arrival and they dropped an AB top hat engine in it. Of course it’s fine.

Telling a new disco owner who created the original post asking for assistance identifying the drive shaft style for them that they find the inline mod useless is not the place. It triggered me actually. I suggested previously to the guy to get under there and look before you just buy a new front driveshaft. They did the thing. They got under there and saw stuff they've never seen before and they asked a good question. The right question. Is this the drive shaft that will blow up my transmission? Yup it is. Good job, now go start looking at the liquid tubes that cool the critically hot hunk of metal that propels you forward and figure it out. Person came in and said “Useless.” Bah. Not helpful.

Old style is dumb. Inline mod all the way. 3 loops. 2 of which are always unregulated. Cost of coolant troubleshooting the original design is justification enough to switch. Add a coolant pressure sensor you've got real time data displaying whether or not you are within pressure and temp specs.

It would take some doing but really if you can get your product to be sold by AB or Lucky 8 or Rimmers it would be really great for the community. It’s crazy to me actually that they dont offer it. Have they reached out to you? Do they know it exists? They have to right? It will happen for sure eventually. After all the “original design” zealot’s engines blow up. Time is a flat circle.

I really don’t like that the trend of new D2 owners are being subjected to the “trust the original engineer design” mentality because ultimately it sways people away from the community when they do indeed blow their engine. Why would you trust a design that is going to increase the chance of be stranded when random failure occurs? Hell, there are already too many rage quit posts in this community.

Make Discos Road Worthy Again.

 

Reached out to all the major suppliers when I launched, especially the ones overseas as the cost of shipping one is the same as shipping 20. Zero response. Part of my motivation for launching the site was keep more restorable D2's on the road, I saw so many going to the upullit. Don't see so many now.

Funny you mention time is a flat circle. Now we are seeing even worse. Modern RR, RRS, BMW, and others run their engine temps in the 220 degree range, with 0w20 oil and the engines rarely make it past 150k. Saw a post today, guys 2011 RR SC engine dropped a valve seat, ruined the engine. Quoted $28k for a new one. Automakers have been putting valve seats in to aluminum heads for 50 years with very few failure. What they have not been doing for 50 years is running engines at 220 degrees plus. And in the time is a flat circle vein, LR and BMW still using external bypass thermostats. But relief is on the way. This week we are working on an inline thermostat system for the modern LR's that will eliminate that. I love the SC RR's, need to save those too!!

Reddit guy like a lot of people has no understanding of physics. More load equals more heat, and a Disco radiator can only handle so much. I have pulled 7000lbs of Disco and trailer behind a disco on flat ground running around 180-190, but throw a grade in there and the sky is the limit. They just weren't built with cooling systems to handle heavy loads at high speeds - back to the engineers scrimping pennies back in the day when LR was near broke. The inline mod does not fix bad or too small radiator, only poor thermostat design. There are other fixes for radiator, water pump, and airflow problems.

 

The inline thermostat in action. I took it for a test drive and logged the data. First some city driving, then on the freeway. I have 4 digital temperature sensors: one for ambient air, one for coolant in the block next to the factory temp sensor, one for coolant at the radiator output and one for engine oil at the filter housing. You can see how the coolant thermostat (Motorad 180F in a JEGS housing) opens on closes nicely.

 

Damn, that's a lot of sensors. What system are you using?

 

That's not all, there will be more. I make the sensors, they use a ±0.5°C max. accuracy digital temp. sensor chip.

 

So what are you using for a datalogger?

 

I use Torque Pro on an Android phone, which connects via BT to my sensor reader (Arduino with a BT module).

 

@Extinct, I can't send you a PM.

 

But you can email me, I got tired of dealing with the PM storage limit. You can do it through the forum or directly at extinct@extinctmotorsports.com