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Oil lamp and ticking at 170k: Suggestions on where to start

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  #181  
Old 01-06-2018, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by shanechevelle
Is there an O ring on the tube?

Did you cut open the filter? Go get your filter and cut it open. Look for metal.

I don't think I would worry about the flow through the filter, I've seen the oring blow out when the path is restricted.
Yes the pickup tube still has the o-ring on it and it looks fine. When they drained the oil the recorded with a phone and showed me. Dark oil with a clearly visible metal residue mixed in the oil. Either from the main bearing that we discovered to be scored or some other component where metal is grinding metal. Ill have the shop examine the oil filter Monday when they are open again. Thanks for the tip.
 
  #182  
Old 01-06-2018, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by The Deputy
I'm starting to think shanechevelle and carreradan are making about the best sense at the moment. Take a step back and evaluate the situation. Maybe, buy a different rig, have the engine pulled out of this one, bring the rest of the rig home (with engine in the back), put the engine on a stand, swap things over to better rig...and assemble this engine at your leisure.

The engine is just a sum of pieces that with a little time and learning you could rebuild it and eventually swap into better framed rig.

This whole ordeal has just gone sideways for the moment. We, or most of us, assumed this would be a broken pump and cover issue, and maybe some bearings...all with the hopes that you might be back in business after a modest repair...but not to be. So, that in itself changes the complexity of the situation.

Anyway, I'd pull the reigns in a bit and slow down the money drain. If you get another rover, you will surely use any of the parts you've already bought. This engine should be pulled, gone through (find smoking gun) and reassembled properly, in my opinion. Someday, it might be the prefect engine for an overland rig.

Brian.
A little story.

Many years ago...15ish, a man walked in to the shop, asked us, "how much to restore our 1965 Barracuda. Engine, trans, frame, paint, chrome etc.all rebuilt.
Hard to quote without seeing the car...see some pics, they agree on a price.
Car arrives, the car is much worse than the pictures. Contract has to be renegotiated. Frame is rotted, floors rotted through, needs new fenders, new quarter panels parts missing...
We were at $30k, now its $40k. For a car that is only worth $20k TOPS.
Trying to save the owner money, we purchased another 65 barracuda and asked if we could use this one instead which would reduce the amount of money he would have to spend on the restoration. It was a dent free solid car with a great frame. It would reduce his contracted price.
Owner says "no way", the car was his first car he bought in high school etc...
so we sell the car we bought and started on his basket...
We get things stripped, fixed, welded, sandblasted, primered, the whole nine yards.
We decide to move forward with paint, guy continues to pay his bill...
We paint his car, send him some pictures.
He now wants two tone paint. What? That's going to cost MORE now than if he just would have said that in the first place. Strip the clear off, tape, sand, mark our lines etc...We add the second color, clear coat, buff...start assembly. Time time time...materials....
Guys wife gets sick, she dies...guy only pays his storage...still owes $18,000, we stop. The shop owner dies...uh oh. Son takes over...closes the place, car sits. Owner continues to pay rent. For about 8 years this guy is paying his rent...we don't touch it. Finally we decided the car is a liability, we tell him to come get the car. We give him the car, everything we still have for it, its gone, we never got the $18k.

Point is...lay down your priorities and think of how you can reach your goal the best, cheapest way possible. Don't just shoot from the hip and by all means know what the end result should be BEFORE you start. Like actually sit down, write it out, do a report on it if you will. Browse the internet and see what stuff is going for, research. Now if this is a sentimental case...people get all out of whack over sentimentality. Me included...don't get me started on my Chevelle.

We once had a guy TOTALLY change his truck color after we finished the truck. He came to pick it up and didn't like the shade. Welp...that'll be another $10k.

This guy doing this rover, is at the stage where it will take him much more money to reach the end result than if he would just start over with a different one.

Don't you people go to junkyards in your areas?
 
  #183  
Old 01-06-2018, 09:40 PM
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I'll bet the junkyards in the northeast only have newer cars, anything with rust is crushed. Only high turn/high profit components are stored. Lots of stuff from the west is shipped back east because bodies last longer in the dry air. That's why the nearest decent D2 to him was 1500 miles away. Even the newest D2 is 14 years old now.
 
  #184  
Old 01-06-2018, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Lisa Bunch
I'll bet the junkyards in the northeast only have newer cars, anything with rust is crushed. Only high turn/high profit components are stored. Lots of stuff from the west is shipped back east because bodies last longer in the dry air. That's why the nearest decent D2 to him was 1500 miles away. Even the newest D2 is 14 years old now.
Nope

There are upullits here with rovers all the time...they even have an old car section that has 50's-60's-70's stuff.

It does get crushed, but there is big business here. $2 admission, sign the waiver...you're in.
 
  #185  
Old 01-06-2018, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by shanechevelle
A little story.

Many years ago...15ish, a man walked in to the shop, asked us, "how much to restore our 1965 Barracuda. Engine, trans, frame, paint, chrome etc.all rebuilt.
Hard to quote without seeing the car...see some pics, they agree on a price.
Car arrives, the car is much worse than the pictures. Contract has to be renegotiated. Frame is rotted, floors rotted through, needs new fenders, new quarter panels parts missing...
We were at $30k, now its $40k. For a car that is only worth $20k TOPS.
Trying to save the owner money, we purchased another 65 barracuda and asked if we could use this one instead which would reduce the amount of money he would have to spend on the restoration. It was a dent free solid car with a great frame. It would reduce his contracted price.
Owner says "no way", the car was his first car he bought in high school etc...
so we sell the car we bought and started on his basket...
We get things stripped, fixed, welded, sandblasted, primered, the whole nine yards.
We decide to move forward with paint, guy continues to pay his bill...
We paint his car, send him some pictures.
He now wants two tone paint. What? That's going to cost MORE now than if he just would have said that in the first place. Strip the clear off, tape, sand, mark our lines etc...We add the second color, clear coat, buff...start assembly. Time time time...materials....
Guys wife gets sick, she dies...guy only pays his storage...still owes $18,000, we stop. The shop owner dies...uh oh. Son takes over...closes the place, car sits. Owner continues to pay rent. For about 8 years this guy is paying his rent...we don't touch it. Finally we decided the car is a liability, we tell him to come get the car. We give him the car, everything we still have for it, its gone, we never got the $18k.

Point is...lay down your priorities and think of how you can reach your goal the best, cheapest way possible. Don't just shoot from the hip and by all means know what the end result should be BEFORE you start. Like actually sit down, write it out, do a report on it if you will. Browse the internet and see what stuff is going for, research. Now if this is a sentimental case...people get all out of whack over sentimentality. Me included...don't get me started on my Chevelle.

We once had a guy TOTALLY change his truck color after we finished the truck. He came to pick it up and didn't like the shade. Welp...that'll be another $10k.

This guy doing this rover, is at the stage where it will take him much more money to reach the end result than if he would just start over with a different one.

Don't you people go to junkyards in your areas?
Thats one hell of a story! And I get what your saying. Ive already stated above that Im putting the Turner engine on hold while I search for a running rust free 2004 white D2. Have afew in mind. One has a rebuilt engine. If its still available after I get my refund from Tarheel then Ill try and buy it. Then Ill have the local shop remove the Turner block from my truck so I can put it in storage and work on it in my spare time as a educational hobby/project. best case scenario Ill have a spare rebuilt Turner block.

If I ever win the power ball I might research Land Cruiser engines and try and retrofit one into my future D2. Imagine a D2 with the reliability of a Toyota Land Cruiser and the beautiful unique styling and capabilities of a classic Land Rover. I think it would be beautiful. id have to swallow my pride a bit but would be worth it. As much as I love these older Rovers I absolutely cannot stand the Rover V8. Its unreliability, slow and poor acceleration compared to other SUV's and its low tolerances.

Like I said before most vehicles in New England are rotted out or beginning to corrode. For some reason folks up here dont like to get their vehicles undercoated. Fluid film is roughly $150 every 2 years I think. So Ill make dam sure my next D2 is a rust free truck and my first objective will be an undercoating.
 
  #186  
Old 01-06-2018, 10:00 PM
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Pay admission?! A cover charge at a wrecking yard. Thats as bad as people who don't know how to pump their own gas. I could never live there...
They must know which vehicles have value. Good news if they have Land Rovers kept.
 
  #187  
Old 01-06-2018, 10:09 PM
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Typical prices around here...
Take a look at the engine price.


A/C Compressor
$15

A/C Condenser
$15

A/C Evaporator
$10

A/C Line Single
$5

A/C Line Double
$10

ABS Unit
$50

Accelerator Cable
$5

Air Bag Driver/Passenger
$30

Air Bag Roof/Seat
$20

Air Cleaner
$10

Alternator
$15

Antenna Standard
$3

Antenna Power
$10

Arm Rest
$3

Axle Solid
$15

Axle CV Joint
$25

Backing Plate
$5

Ball Joints
$5 each

Battery
$25

Battery Tray/Box
$5

Bed Liner
$30

Brake & Clutch Pedal
$10

Brake Drum 5-6 Lug
$10

Brake Drum 8 Lug
$15

Brake Drum & Hub Car
$15

Brake Drum & Hub Truck
$20

Brake Hose Truck
$5 Each

Brake Pads or Shoes
$2 per wheel

Brake Pedal
$5

Brake Proportioning Valve
$10

Bumper No Lights
$30

Bumper Cover No Lights
$30

Bumper Reinforcement
$10

Bumper Shock or Bracket
$3 each

Caliper
$10

Cam Shaft
$15

Carburetor
$30

Carpet
$5 per section

Center Cap
$3

Center Console
$10

Center Drag Link
$10

Clock
$3

Clutch Cable
$10

Clutch Disc
$10

Clutch Fan
$10

Coil Pack
$20

Coil Spring
$10

Computer (ECM/Engine)
$20

ConsoleOverhead
$10

Control ArmCar
$10

Control Arm Truck/SUV
$15

Convertible Top
$50

Convertible Top Motor
$20

Crankshaft
$20

Cruise Control Transducer
$10

Cylinder HeadNo Cams
$40

Dash Pad
$10

Dashboard No Accessories
$30

Dip Stick w/out Tube
$2

Dip Stick w/Tube
$5

Disc Break Rear Independent, No Accessories
$80

Disc Break Rear Solid Axle, No Accessories
$80

Distributor
$20

Distributor Cap Non-electronic
$5

Distributor Cap Electronic
$10

DoorSide
$30

DoorRear Hatch
$40

DoorSliding
$40

Door Handle
$5

Door Hinge
$5

Door Latch
$5

Door Lock Motor
$5

Door Mirror Standard
$10

Door Mirror Lighted
$15

Door Panel No Accessories
$5

Door Skin Plastic
$20

Drive Shaft
$20per section

Drum Brake Rear No Accessories
$80

Drum Break Rear Solid Axle, No Accessories
$50

EGR Valve
$10

Electric Cooling Fan Single
$10

Electric Cooling Fan Double
$20

Emergency Brake
$5

Emergency Brake Cable
$5

Engine Small Block (4/6/8 Cyl)
$175

Engine Pulled; Big Block extra
See Salesman

Exhaust Manifold
$15

Exhaust Pipe
$10

Exhaust Tail Pipe
$10

Exhaust Y-Pipe
$15

Fender No Accessories
$30

Flex Plate
$10

Floor Mats
$2 each

Flywheel Standard
$10

Front Differential Independent, No Accessories
$80

Front Differential Solid Axle, No Accessories
$80

Fuel Filler Neck
$10

Fuel Injection Unit
$35

Fuel Injector Gas
$5 each

Fuel Injector Diesel
$10 each

Fuel Pump External
$10

Fuel Pump In Tank
$15

Fuel Rail No Injectors
$10

Fuel Tank
$25

Fuse Box
$10

Gauge
$5 each

Glow Plugs Diesel
$5 each

Grille Small
$15

Grille Large
$20

Grille Guard
$30

Harmonic Balancer
$10

Header Panel No Accessories
$25

Headlight Composite
$20

Headlight Assembly Pop-Up
$15

Headlight Bezel
$5

Headlight Motor
$10

Headlight Switch
$5

Headliner Car/Truck
$5

Headliner Van/SUV
$10

Heater Control
$10

Heater Core
$10

Heater Motor
$10

Hood
$30

Hood Hinge
$5

Horn
$2

Hub 4x4
$15

Hub 2WD/Car
$5

Hub ABS
$10

Hubcap Plastic
$3

Hubcap Wire
$5

Idler Arm
$5

Ignition Coil
$10

Ignition Switch
$5

Inner Fender
$5

Instrument Cluster
$20

Intake Manifold
$15

Jack
$3

Leaf Spring
$20

Mass Air Flow Sensor
$10

Master Cylinder
$10

Mirror Inside Non-electronic
$3

Mirror Inside Electronic
$10

Miscellaneous Mouldings
$1 - $5

Modules All Types
$10 Each

Motor Block
$100

Motor Mount
$5

Muffler
$10

Oil Cooler
$10

Oil Pan
$10

Oil Pump
$10

Oxygen Sensor
$5

Parking Light
$5

Pickup Bed
$150 - $300

Piston
$5

Pitman Arm
$10

Power Brake Booster
$15

Power Steering Pressure Hose
$5

Power Steering Pump
$15

Pressure Plate
$10

Pulley
$5

Quarter Panel Metal
$75

Quarter Panel Plastic
$45

Radiator No Fans
$35

Radiator Shroud
$5

Radiator Support No Accessories
$20

Radio No CD or Cassette
$10

Radio with Cassette
$20

Radio with CD
$25

Radio Speakers
$5 each

Rear Axle Beams No Accessories
$40

Rear Carrier Gears/Pumpkin
$30

Rear Door Ladder Van
$10

Relay
$1 Each

Rocker Arm Assembly
$10

Rollbar
$30

Roof Car/Pickup
$50

Roof Van/SUV
$100

Roof Rack Car
$10

Roof Rack Truck
$20 - $40

Rotor Car
$10

Rotor Truck
$15

Rotor w/Hub Car
$15

Rotor w/Hub Truck
$20

Running Boards
$10 each

Sealed Beam
$2

Seat Bench
$20

Seat Bucket
$15

Seat Bucket W/Airbag
$30

Seat Captain's Chair
$20

Seat Belt
$5

Seat Motor
$5 Each

Seat Track
$5 Per Seat

Sensors
$5 - $10

Shifter Handle Only
$5

Shifter Assembly
$10

Shifter Cable
$5

Shock Lift Support
$3

Shock Standard
$5

Shock Air Ride
$20

Slave Cylinder Clutch
$10

Slave Cylinder Steering
$10

Smog Pump
$15

Spark Plug Wires
$5 set

Speedometer Cable
$5

Spindle
$15

Spoiler
$15

Starter
$15

Steering Column No Air Bag
$20

Steering Gear Box
$20

Steering Rack & Pinion
$20

Steering Wheel No Switches
$5

Strut Assembly
$15

Subframe No Accessories
$25

Sun Visor Interior
$4

Sunroof
$20

Sunroof Motor
$10

Super Charger
$50

Sway Bar
$10

T-Top
$20 each

Tailgate
$30

Tailgate Motor
$10

Taillight Assembly
$15

Third Brake Light Small
$10

Third Brake Light Large
$20

Throttle Body
$30

Tie Rod
$5

Timing Chain
$10

Timing Chain Cover

$10

Tire Standard
$15

Tire Compact Spare
$10

Torque Converter
$20

Torsion Bar
$10

Tow Hooks
$5 Each

Trailer Hitch
$15

Trailer Hitch Ball
$5

Transfer Case
$50

Transfer Case Motor
$20

Transmission Automatic
$85

Transmission Manual
$85

Transmission Bell Housing Manual
$15

Transmission Cooler
$10

Transmission Crossmember
$10

Transmission Pulled
See Salesman

Transmission Solenoid
$20

Trim Panel (Van/Suv)
$10

Truck Cab Bare
$100

Truck Cap
$50

Trunk Lid Bare
$30

Trunk Pulldown Power
$10

Turbo Intercooler
$20

Turbo Unit
$50

Turn Signal Switch
$5

Valve Body
$50

Valve Cover
$10

Voltage Regulater
$5

Washer Reservoir No Pump
$5

Water Pump
$10

Wheel Aluminum
$20

Wheel Steel
$7

Window Sliding
$20

Window Side
$20

Window Back
$20

Window Motor
$10

Window Regulator No Motor
$10

Window Switch
$10

Window Vent
$5

Window Vent Latch Pair
$5

Window Vent Latch
$5 Each

Windshield
$35

Windshield Removed by EZ Pull
$70

Windshield Cowl
$10

Windshield Washer Pump
$5

Windshield Wiper Arm
$5

Windshield Wiper Motor
$10

Windshield Wiper Transmission
$10

Wiring Harness
$20 - $40

Yoke Drive Shaft
$5

Yoke Rear End
$5
 
  #188  
Old 01-06-2018, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by TRIARII
Thats one hell of a story! And I get what your saying. Ive already stated above that Im putting the Turner engine on hold while I search for a running rust free 2004 white D2. Have afew in mind. One has a rebuilt engine. If its still available after I get my refund from Tarheel then Ill try and buy it. Then Ill have the local shop remove the Turner block from my truck so I can put it in storage and work on it in my spare time as a educational hobby/project. best case scenario Ill have a spare rebuilt Turner block.

If I ever win the power ball I might research Land Cruiser engines and try and retrofit one into my future D2. Imagine a D2 with the reliability of a Toyota Land Cruiser and the beautiful unique styling and capabilities of a classic Land Rover. I think it would be beautiful. id have to swallow my pride a bit but would be worth it. As much as I love these older Rovers I absolutely cannot stand the Rover V8. Its unreliability, slow and poor acceleration compared to other SUV's and its low tolerances.

Like I said before most vehicles in New England are rotted out or beginning to corrode. For some reason folks up here dont like to get their vehicles undercoated. Fluid film is roughly $150 every 2 years I think. So Ill make dam sure my next D2 is a rust free truck and my first objective will be an undercoating.
You have to look at certain words that make me cringe...words like "rebuilt"...who rebuilt it, what was rebuilt? What parts were used in the rebuild? Some people add an intake, valve cover gaskets, water pump, oil pump and call that rebuilt where others will change bearings, polish cranks, new rings etc...
 
  #189  
Old 01-06-2018, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Lisa Bunch
Pay admission?! A cover charge at a wrecking yard. Thats as bad as people who don't know how to pump their own gas. I could never live there...
They must know which vehicles have value. Good news if they have Land Rovers kept.
No lisa...its not like that...

The yard asks you to sign a waiver so you cant sue them since you are the one doing all the dismantling. They put any and all vehicles in the yard. They basically purchase cars from copart and people that drive them in.

These yards are huge, with inventories, numbered rows, etc. Cars all lifted off the ground so you can crawl under and remove whatever you want.
 
  #190  
Old 01-06-2018, 10:55 PM
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What's copart? We don't have to sign a waiver, we just go pull stuff, they tell us where the cars are. They used to not allow me in the yard by myself because I'm a woman, so I bring my husband along as insurance and help. May-Sept is too hot to visit wrecking yards thpugh.
 


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