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Oil Pressure Gauge Installation Instructions

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  #11  
Old 12-20-2011 | 08:56 PM
wheelgarage's Avatar
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Sweet install....

If one day my entire dash craps out, I'd love to replace the entire thing with this Defi system....



Or a STACK system....which I personally love...
 
  #12  
Old 12-20-2011 | 10:56 PM
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vandshome:

Page from RAVE attached with color pix of switch and location
 
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  #13  
Old 12-21-2011 | 01:55 PM
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Replaced the oil pressure switch today, took it for a test drive, and the oil light is coming on more now, it comes on when I stop at lights or truck is in park.
Does anything need resetting.
whats going on?
 
  #14  
Old 12-21-2011 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by vandshome
Replaced the oil pressure switch today, took it for a test drive, and the oil light is coming on more now, it comes on when I stop at lights or truck is in park.
Does anything need resetting.
whats going on?
If you got an '03 or an '04 you migh have a cracked oil pump. Friendly suggestion: STOP DRIVING YOUR TRUCK AND GET YOU OIL PRESSURE CHECKED ASAP!!!!!!
Do a search on the furum and you can find correct pressure depending on the temperature (hot/cold).

These are 1st symptoms of cracked oil pump. No worries though....we can talk you trrough it.

Now get that oil pressure checked ASAP!!!!!!

You might of got lucky and cought it on time.
 
  #15  
Old 12-25-2011 | 04:09 PM
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I have not taken the truck in to get the oil pressure tested yet, due to holiday. Basically is it just those gears that is possible damaged?Is this a difficult labor job for a Land Rover mech.(2001 Discovery), considering its not much room to work around, i had to access the oil pressure switch from a small access door above the brakes. I usually go to a shop in Valley View Ohio, he use to work at Land Rover Akron(closed).
 
  #16  
Old 12-25-2011 | 08:14 PM
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Yes on the gears! The outer ring cracks in few places and the oil pressure escapes through these cracks. If the pieces that break are small enough, the centrifugal force from the pump spinning will throw them out in the exit of the engine cover where they will get stuck into and the other pieces of the outer ring that are spinning will hit it which causes the front engine cover to explode.
It is not a huge job (compared to the head gaskets) but you still need to remove everything from the front of the engine as well as the oil pan. This would be a good time to replace the timing chain, water pump, front crank seal, etc. If you got a good LR mechanic he should be able to do this repair in one day.

I still strongly suggest that you do not drive the truck until you check the oil pressure. Do not start doing anything until you get that pressure reading. It could be a faulty switch as well.

Let me know if you need any pictures. I got my spare engine cover, new oil pump as well as the old oil pump that got cracked in 5 places. I can take some pics if you want so you can get a better idea on what the inside looks like.

Cheers!
 

Last edited by boris_gti; 12-25-2011 at 08:59 PM.
  #17  
Old 12-27-2011 | 09:03 AM
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OK i have been racing for a long time. and i wood not go electrical theres no way hope it works i just go old school
 
  #18  
Old 05-19-2012 | 08:20 AM
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From: West Palm Beach, FL
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Originally Posted by boris_gti
Just ordered my gauges from glowshift. Oil pressure, water temp and volt meter.

Pics to follow.
I just did too, did you do the custom application or the screw on sandwich adapter? I ordered the sandwich adapter.. seems to be an easy bolt up ... not sure why everyone is "tapping" into other ports.. maybe they are old threads before someone figured out that the oil sandwich adapter works... I noticed on glowshift, they do not have a "land rover" adapter, just a generic size that happens to fit Land rover... lol I do not get any red oil light issue so Im guessing im within range... however, if factory sensor goes bad, wouldn't it trigger open loop and a red light ( as if low pressire) just so we dont destroy our trucks not knowing sensor is bad?
 
  #19  
Old 05-19-2012 | 08:32 AM
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The factory sensor test is oil light on before engine start, then off is mere seconds. But if switch fails or bulb burns out just after that, and radio is turned up on that loud music station, we won't hear the clatter that signals doom. And actually it closes on loss of pressure to turn on the light, a broken wire can remove monitoring as well.
 
  #20  
Old 05-19-2012 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
The factory sensor test is oil light on before engine start, then off is mere seconds. But if switch fails or bulb burns out just after that, and radio is turned up on that loud music station, we won't hear the clatter that signals doom. And actually it closes on loss of pressure to turn on the light, a broken wire can remove monitoring as well.
My switch went bad and it caused red light. Nearly scared the ....... out of me while driving down the expressway. I use the glow shift sandwich adapter and I don't have any problems with it. I will say that I like having both the oil temp and the oil pressure gauges! Its piece of mind...
 


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