Has any one ever serviced or repaired the oil presure relief valve? i need to check to see if mine is sticking. Rave only says it is in the timing cover but dones not give any parts list or exploded view. will i need to talk to a rover dealership?

 

1. The RAVE has several sections, one is called general / overhaul, and that is where more detailed info can be found, like the pages attached with exploded diagrams, location, etc.

2. Oil pump itself could also be suspect. They can crack, and the pieces still turn. Maybe tick. Problem is with cracks, it won't make full oil pressure, just enough to turn off the light (7 PSI) but not the 50 PSI at 2000 RPM which is the hot engine spec.

3. If relief valve jams, and pump is in good condition, the oil filter will swell up, and sometimes burst at the seam (very exciting on the freeway), or blow out O rings on oil cooler lines (if equipped).

4. "clicking from passenger side valve cover and oil pressure issues" - sounds like you need to borow an oil PSI manual gauge and test to confirm what is going on inside the front cover. Kit of parts for oil pump, crank seal, cover gasket, and water pump gasket is about $110 from AB.

5. Seems like we have had posts about guys working on the relief valve and having two different lengths of spring fitted (in different engines, not in one pump). That might explain why the oil PSI spec for a D1 is 30-40 PSI hot, and a D2 is 50 PSI hot.

 

As far as Land Rover is concerned it is a non-servicable part. It's a very simple part, just a spring a "piston." I use quotes there because it's more like a metal cap. Obviously if it's sticking open you're going to have oil pressure issues since it's just bypassing oil right back to the pump. If it is sticking just replacing it may not solve the issue as the bore the piston travels in could be scored as well. If you do replace it, try to find a "tadpole" type as it's a much better design.

If I get a chance I'll tear one down today and take some photos so you can see where it is and what it looks like.

 

thank you very much for the rave pages..... for some reason the rave manual i downloaded does not have those diagrams in it.... this is very bad for me.. when i had the timing cover off i inspected the oil pump it didn't have any cracks in it. i will inspect the bypass valve and the pressure relief valve this weekend.. just for your info i am currently have 5 quart 10w-40 and one quart lucas oil stablizer in it now for winter. During the summer i ran 6 quarts 20w-50...

 

1. The RAVE has many sections. The file pdf/general/ovhaul has some pretty detailed info, that's where my previous info came from.

2. Check out the post of a jumbo low loss oil filter that everyone should know about: https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...estions-46975/ , this could certainly help.

3. 10W40 will take cold operating range down to -10 C (14F), 5W40 will take it to -35 C, (-31F), depending on where you live. Even in my area, which only gets to high 20's 3-4 days a year, I noticed an improvement of how quick the oil light turns off at engine start (syn Rotella 5W40 vs dino Rotella 15W40). Adding Lucas to the mix would push your effective low temp up a bit. Of course, many owners like this "Lucas" vs the one that makes electrical parts.....

 

Why are you worrying about the valve, what is your engine doing and be specific, also how many miles on the engine?

 

To answer your question Disco mike.....it has 141,000 miles on it. I just want to make sure that both the bypass valve and pressure relief valve are not gummed up with crap... Because my oil pump is not broken and i don't believe that the main bearings are sooo worn out that oil can't get up to the rocker shaft... but i have not checked them.. Thats the problem not enough oil pressure at idle to pump oil to the passenger side rocker shaft causing a clicking noise.. So i think that either my bypass valve or pressure relief valve are sticking or stuck open.. or both...
So heres what i'm goint to do. I am going to inspect and clean both valves then... i'm going to drive to see if i fixed it.... if not, then i will shim (one at a time) each valve with a flat washer... drive it to see if i fixed it... i will not use more that two washer in one valve..

 

so what if i blow off the oil filter... at least i know i got full oil pressure back.. ha ha ha

 

You need to get some actual pressure readings before you do anything else . Otherwise everything is just speculation.

 

see https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...ight=purolator

This filter has been observed by a working pro member to increase oil PSI quite a bit, and solve noise problems like you describe. $8. When you "listen" to valve cover on each side with a stick/screw driver/mechanic's stethoscope - can you hear a big difference? Sound like you have oil sludged up as well from perhaps a previous owner. Might be time for some serious engine flush.