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Went with a cyberdyne digital gauge in green so it matched. It flahses at whatever low point you set it at. Mounted it low, so it didn't take away from the appearance of the dash, and only the driver can see it.

 

Nice location! Did you get it on ebay?

 

Got it all from summit Racing for $82.

Black cup 2-1/16" -- $17
Cyberdyne Oil Press -- $56

Used one of the dash mounting bolts (had to buy a longer one), so I can remove it completely in without any holes.

 

Anyone got any tips on removing this oil pan. It is stuck hard. All bolts are out and I can wiggle it by prying with a screw driver. I'm afraid to pry harder as it might break it. Seems to be held on by a sealant. I'm hit it many times with a plastic dead blow hammer. Doesnt' seem to do anything. Think heating it up will help?

I'm so close to seeing if my oil pump gear is bad.

Thanks,
Troy

 

Metal putty knife? Not suggesting prying (could warp it) but driving something very slim in from the side may loosen enough of the sealant. Here's a pix that shows how wide the contact area is. IMHO enough heat to remove sealant would be a lot, as aluminum block is going to dissiapate it as fast as it can. Room for a razor blade to cut edge of sealant?

 

Thanks for the pic, it was helpful. I went to the hardware store and wandered the isle looking for some things that might work. Got a couple metal framing straps that I can bend and hit from the side. My putty knife was only able to get to some parts.

 

Have you pulled ALL the bolts??? Even the two hidden up in the holes at the back?

 

SUCCESS!

I can't believe it feels so good to have something broken. Here is what came out:



I'm so glad I installed an oil pressure gauge. My symtoms besides a tick, that would go away at higher RPMs 1,500+, was oil light staying on for what seemed a few seconds after start up. Also, since I had the gauge. I was able to notice that just recently my oil pressure at hot idle, which used to be 20 psi, would now drop down to 10 psi occassionally/randomly. Not enough to trigger the dash light, but it was acting erradic. I'm guesing the gear finally broke into peices this week.

Timing chain is pretty sloppy too, so going to order a new one. Also, I've had a mysterious coolant leak that I feared was a headgasket issue. Turns out the top bolt on boths side of the timing cover was seeping coolant, but not enough to be easily detected.

Flexplate looked good, no cracks and all bearing caps were tight. Engine was really clean and had little to no sludge build up.

For the mods:

I found this write-up while searching the web, and while not anyting earth shattering, the photos helped. Maybe a sticky?
Landrover timing cover

Time to wait for parts

 

I would suggest pulling those alignment pins before you put it back together. Thats what causes the problem.

 

Pulling them completely, and not using them? That is the first I've heard of that. Are they needed for any purpose other than "alignment", I'm sure the bolts hold it in place just fine.

Mine was in the death VIN range, but went 100k with no previous record of them being changed, and I have dealer reciepts since new.

Any others have opinions on this? Parts will be here Monday for reassembly.