I had my oil pressure switch changed about 2-3 months ago. Well long story short the oil light came back on (here and there) so I took it into the shop again. They changed the switch again and then told this: Turns out that under 1500rpm my oil pressure is on the low side, in idle and such. Furthermore, the guy told me that either A) I could get a new engine or B) he wants to replace the bearings I believe he was referring to the main bearing(s).

That being said.... I thought to myself. WHY the hell did he not mention just getting a new oil pump and seeing if that rectifies the issue? Why did he just jump to saying "new engine" or "main bearing(s)" I feel like this is ridiculous and that, its pointless to do all that work without actually changing the damn oil pump first...

I checked my oil levels too and the dip stick was fine. But at the shop the guy says the oil is disappearing... Explain that one to me...

What are your thoughts guys? Seems a bit off to me thats for sure!

 

i suggest you have him supply you w/ pressure readings (if you trust him) or find a reputable mechanic to get the readings. Sounds like the oil pump is tired. Or better yet switch over to 15w 40 ShellRotella and a large capacity oil filter like Mobil 1 M1-301 or Napa Gold 1515. like the rest of us. That should lift your pressure. What oil and filter are you running?

Search on here for what the readings should be. But you are interested in pressure readings at Cold Idle, Running Temperature Idle and a pressure reading at 2000rpm. Think I got that right. Hopefully, some else chimes in. If not send Savannah Buzz or Disco Mike a PM for the procedure.

 

Cold idle and cold at RPM will be about equal, as oil is thicker, bypass valve is shunting media in the filter, and pump is doing all it can. As oil warms up, bypass valve shoves it thru the media, and at idle you'll drop, but should be above 10 PSI. Hot should be 50+ at rpm.

If oil light is coming on can also be:

main bearings worn - there is an in-the-truck repair write up in out tech area

rocker arms worn - rebuild from under valve covers

pump worn - $115 kit of parts, if going into front cover consider inspect/replace timing chain

as stated above, oil filter and oil type have an impact. Running 5W20 not good idea, I don't care what Iffy Lube manager says.

You can also have so much sludge in the oil pan that the oil pickup is clogged, and the small seal for the oil ring pickup pipe can be bad, and you are sucking air with the oil.

If you swap oil and filter, and problem goes away, you still want to have oil PSI tested. You may have moved it from 7 PSI (light on) to 9 PSI (light off) when you want 50+ PSI at speed.

 

Better yet find a new mechanic who has a better idea about what he is talking about.

 

Also what is your mileage? Switch to Rottella 15w-40 and see if that helps 1st

Also the oil pump gear ring usually cracks in to 3 pieces because of it poor design. Then it still pumps but at a reduced rate because oil seeps past the cracks. I replaced my oil pump gear. I have a 2003 in the Bad VIN range. Still running strong with 117,***. You may also want to install a oil pressure gauge. I have a write up on it if you search my handle bosshogt. Its eases your mind that you will not seize your engine while driving down the highway.

Dropping your oil pan and inspecting your oil pickup screen is a cheap start. Clean it with Kerosen or carb cleaner. You can also replace the O ring that the pickup pipe has on it. (Buy it from the dealer $2) Then your out $25 for the O ring and new oil pan gasket. You could also remove one or two brackets that hold your crank shaft and inspect the bearings. All that could be done on a Saturday. If you have 4 tire ramps it makes the job much easier. I know from long hours under my Rover. I bet a shop would do it for $150

 

Hopefully none of these