Hello all, this is my first post. I bought an '02 Disco II SE7 with 183k a couple of weeks ago. It came with a 1.5 or 2" lift and has ARB Air lockers installed. I made the mistake of taking it to an independent shop that claim they specialize in Rovers. I just had them do a used vehicle inspection, but I think they just checked the codes, replaced the mass airflow sensor, and determined I was loosing coolant somewhere (head gasket). They didn't provide a list of things needed, nor did they inform me of the "known issues" you guys have generously provided on this forum.

So, I'm in the process of going through the major service list provided here. I've bought the new U-joints for the front driveshaft and plan to tackle it tonight. Now for the purpose of this post...

Question: I plan to put a new head gasket on over New Years weekend (2.5 weeks). Should I do the coolant flush/tstat replacement now or will I be ok waiting till I do the head gasket?

Issue: When traveling on the interstate around 45mph up to 55mph, I feel a light knock in the rear end. It seems to be the worst at 50-53mph and it happens whether I'm accelerating or coasting. However it doesn't do it 100% of the time, or at least I don't always notice it. My guess is it has to do with the drive shaft or rear end, but I'm not sure which. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance for your response and I appreciate everyone who has contributed their experiences to this forum. It is going to be a life (and wallet) saver!!!!

Jared Hunt - Leeds, AL

 

IMHO - flush now won't make much difference. Do change stat after you do heads and any trash can get circulated out of the system. See stat pix with trash in metering holes. Would seriously look at oil pump at this miles, (at least manual PSI test) and water pump (pix or old one). See pix of cracked oil pump, makes some pressure, but not enough. If you open up for oil pump, timing chain is right there. And you do have the RAVE, of course?

Inspect flex coupling on rear shaft. Might try drain/refill transfer case and diffs with a heavier oil, like 85/140. And consider rebuild of rear shaft u-joint as well.

 

Yes, the transfer case oil has been changed to 85/140 and I bought enough to do the front and rear diffs. The rear drive shaft u-joint is also on my list along with a tranny fluid & filter change. I hope the knocking will subside once all of that is done.

Thanks for the tips on changing the oil & water pump. So, you also recommend I change the timing chain or just check/clean/lube?

 

Don't forget the flex coupling... and line up your machine shop that will mill the heads back flat, those guys take holiday breaks also. Flatness spec is .002 inch, printer paper is .0038, pretty tight.

 

Yes or no on replacing the timing chain?

Yeah, I've got to find a machinist. I planned on it taking me two weekends to get everything done (tear down & clean, machine heads & check everything, put back together). The wife doesn't work, so she can take me to work or go without a car.

 

Your kind of miles, it will most likely be stretched and somewhat sloppy, so yes, if within budget. The mushroom factor can sneak up on you.

 

Oh, it's within budget. I bought this to drive, so I'm willing to do it right the first time. I especially want to ensure its mechanically sound before taking to the woods/mud. Feel free to make any other recommendations on what to do while I've got the motor apart.

 

The diffs and other things have these little air vent tubes to allow evaporation fumes to escape. On the diffs they come out of a "banjo bolt" on the axle. Bolt can get plugged with mud inside, on my rear it made axle seal leak into brake pads. They are right there while you are under the truck. There are all kinds of things to grease under a Disco. Some people extend the rear axle tube to a higher spot on the truck to allow more "wading".

 

This one is definitely going to be a project. First order of business is to get her running right and attempt to ensure reliability. Then I can begin modifications. Thanks again for all the tips.

 

When I owened my jeep it began to knock in the rear, it ended up being the spider gears, ring and pionion to pices.I would open the rear up and inpect the gears make sure there isnt any teeth missing in any of the gears, it also could be a bearing.to make the fluid change a breez get the valvaline oil pump, it can suck up the old oil, and u swap the hoses around and fill w the new.Good luck.