Option B
There are multiple reasons for the 3 Amigos LR03NJ.
Here are some:
Battery or ground connections
Wheel ABS sensors
Option B issues (there is a better way but more expensive)
Shuttle valve seals.
First check your DTC codes with a diag tool.
Then replace the shuttle valve seals.
Then do Option B or similar
Power bleed the brakes using a suitable diag tool.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-amigos-89949/
Here are some:
Battery or ground connections
Wheel ABS sensors
Option B issues (there is a better way but more expensive)
Shuttle valve seals.
First check your DTC codes with a diag tool.
Then replace the shuttle valve seals.
Then do Option B or similar
Power bleed the brakes using a suitable diag tool.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-amigos-89949/
Last edited by OffroadFrance; Jun 27, 2018 at 10:05 AM.
I am with OffroadFrance find out what is wrong and fix it. Option B is a very specific fix for a specific problem.
Now if you are just doing it as a proactive step that is whole different conversation.
Now if you are just doing it as a proactive step that is whole different conversation.
Option B is a mod that should be done to all D2’s IMHO. The internal connection is a serious weak link with the WABCO Unit. Once that modification is done you can put that issue to rest & then check other things. A code scanner that reads LR ABS faults is also key to making repairs quick & easy.
Option B is a mod that should be done to all D2’s IMHO. The internal connection is a serious weak link with the WABCO Unit. Once that modification is done you can put that issue to rest & then check other things. A code scanner that reads LR ABS faults is also key to making repairs quick & easy.
When I did my option B repair and pulled out old abs modulator, all of the insulation on the wires was gone...just bare exposed wires..
My point is that yes there are many instances that can cause 3 amigos to come on, but to me it is logical just to get option b out of the way since it is so easy...
I am a technician by trade and option B worked for me.....If and when I get amigos on again, I will figure those out as well...
Cheers
I am of the belief of find the problem then fix it. Option B is great but could very well not fix the problem.
You need to start with a healthy truck before modifying it - and option B is a Mod.
You need to start with a healthy truck before modifying it - and option B is a Mod.
I believe in finding the fault as well. 99% of all the D2’s I’ve touched with the 3 Amigo’s always have shuttle valve faults.
Before any work is performed using a Scantool is step #1. #2 is Option B if any shuttle valve switch faults or ground faults are present. #3 adress other faults and go from there.
Option B is extremely pro-active as the internal connector is a ticking time bomb. It’s not a matter of if it fails, it’s a matter of when it fails. Not to mention the OEM shuttle valve switch wiring falling to pieces.
I don’t consider Option B a mod at all, it’s a repair for a $1500.00 part with a .50 cent internal connector. H1’s suffer the same fate & Option B actually originates from the H1.
Before any work is performed using a Scantool is step #1. #2 is Option B if any shuttle valve switch faults or ground faults are present. #3 adress other faults and go from there.
Option B is extremely pro-active as the internal connector is a ticking time bomb. It’s not a matter of if it fails, it’s a matter of when it fails. Not to mention the OEM shuttle valve switch wiring falling to pieces.
I don’t consider Option B a mod at all, it’s a repair for a $1500.00 part with a .50 cent internal connector. H1’s suffer the same fate & Option B actually originates from the H1.
Last edited by Best4x4; Jun 27, 2018 at 01:28 PM.
I believe in finding the fault as well. 99% of all the D2’s I’ve touched with the 3 Amigo’s always have shuttle valve faults.
Before any work is performed using a Scantool is step #1. #2 is Option B if any shuttle valve switch faults or ground faults are present. #3 adress other faults and go from there.
Option B is extremely pro-active as the internal connector is a ticking time bomb. It’s not a matter of if it fails, it’s a matter of when it fails. Not to mention the OEM shuttle valve switch wiring falling to pieces.
I don’t consider Option B a mod at all, it’s a repair for a $1500.00 part with a .50 cent internal connector. H1’s suffer the same fate & Option B actually originates from the H1.
Before any work is performed using a Scantool is step #1. #2 is Option B if any shuttle valve switch faults or ground faults are present. #3 adress other faults and go from there.
Option B is extremely pro-active as the internal connector is a ticking time bomb. It’s not a matter of if it fails, it’s a matter of when it fails. Not to mention the OEM shuttle valve switch wiring falling to pieces.
I don’t consider Option B a mod at all, it’s a repair for a $1500.00 part with a .50 cent internal connector. H1’s suffer the same fate & Option B actually originates from the H1.
I think we arguing the in a circle
we both agree on fix 1st. I have read a lot about option B, and it is a solid fix. Pretty sure the original owner of my Disco could have done that rather than replace the modulator with one from a 99 or 2000 Disco. But 8000 Km and 10 months it still works good.But I have been lucky my only 3 amigo's were a partly disconnected sensor wire. My modulator is dry and wiring intact, my spare is ok too. It may not stay that way but until I need to I will leave option B as repair when I get a failure.


