Overheating 2nd opinion!
The rad if a problem should be showing a big temp difference top to bottom along the same vertical line, with lower rows blocked up. Also would want to be sure fins are not full of mud and trash on the outside. If rad reads 10F or less difference, then you might consider water pump.
thanks Savannah- Is there any way to check if the water pump is bad while still attached/assembled? I'm still thinking the KW HG stop leak and K seal is causing a blockage in the radiator, but thought i'd ask about pump...
I doubt there is much of that KW stuff in there.
Where do you live? How hot is it outside?
Is the AUX fan coming on at 210?
You should hear an electric fan at 210 degrees.
On my truck, that little aux fan could hold my temps to 210 or less at idle.
The fan clutch is probably needed if it is hot out - summer weather.
The fan should ROAR when you slow down on an exit ramp or such
as the air is HOT from running down the road and then you slow down so the hot fluid makes the air
hot and the fan clutch will "feel" the air and grip harder giving you the fan roar.
I bet though your radiator is simply plugged.
or - your belt is slipping - but I doubt that.
On my truck, I could drop the temps by blasting the heater. I could drop by 5 degrees and roast myself in the process.
I bet for you well
You did the 180 degree T-stat.
I think a new radiator will help.
I put a new radiator in my truck
and a new fan clutch.
All that did not really help until I replace the 180 degree thermostat.
If you are still hearing a sloshing or waterfall sound a bit, then you need to keep bleeding.
Where do you live? How hot is it outside?
Is the AUX fan coming on at 210?
You should hear an electric fan at 210 degrees.
On my truck, that little aux fan could hold my temps to 210 or less at idle.
The fan clutch is probably needed if it is hot out - summer weather.
The fan should ROAR when you slow down on an exit ramp or such
as the air is HOT from running down the road and then you slow down so the hot fluid makes the air
hot and the fan clutch will "feel" the air and grip harder giving you the fan roar.
I bet though your radiator is simply plugged.
or - your belt is slipping - but I doubt that.
On my truck, I could drop the temps by blasting the heater. I could drop by 5 degrees and roast myself in the process.
I bet for you well
You did the 180 degree T-stat.
I think a new radiator will help.
I put a new radiator in my truck
and a new fan clutch.
All that did not really help until I replace the 180 degree thermostat.
If you are still hearing a sloshing or waterfall sound a bit, then you need to keep bleeding.
Here's pix of water pump. May can poke something in and drag against impeller blades while you hand rotate it to check for number of blades present.
At 1000 rpm it is rated to move 2.64 gallons per minute.
At 1000 rpm it is rated to move 2.64 gallons per minute.
To close this thread out- I did the rad swap and my temps are idling at 190- 195 highest in traffic on an 87 degree day! Also noticed that the old rad was considerably heavier than the new one- must've been clogged with that stop leak crap! NEVER AGAIN!
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duckhunteryolo
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Mar 2, 2016 04:53 PM




